Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
|
|||
I just pieced a 3-gear transmission together this week. You will need:
3-gear case
3-gear motor plate
3-gear spur cover
3-gear top shaft
(2x) 5x10x4 bearings. The 3 gear aluminum top shaft rides on smaller bearings compared to the 4 gear transmission which uses 6x12x4 .
(2x) diff shims (#1733). The B5M Lite manual lists 2 diff shims and they are correct because when I installed the diff in the three gear transmission case there was a lot of lateral movement between the diff and cases. The shims eliminated most of that play.
3-gear case
3-gear motor plate
3-gear spur cover
3-gear top shaft
(2x) 5x10x4 bearings. The 3 gear aluminum top shaft rides on smaller bearings compared to the 4 gear transmission which uses 6x12x4 .
(2x) diff shims (#1733). The B5M Lite manual lists 2 diff shims and they are correct because when I installed the diff in the three gear transmission case there was a lot of lateral movement between the diff and cases. The shims eliminated most of that play.
Looking at getting a few extra springs and would like to know if the AE springs or Avid were preferred (my gut says Avid). Then what springs / range of springs for F & R work well on low to med bite tracks.
Thanks,
Thanks,
cb's are the main one. the guy that does it is local to me. u can do it yourself if u feel like you can. lay the gear flat on sandpaper and go to town, belt sander helps alot
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
trans case
motor plate (or modified 4 gear plate)
gear cover
top shaft v2
diff shims (this is a must there is atleast 1/8 inch of play without them)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
Which diff shims are you buying? I have my 3 gear on the way, but just had the gear cover come in off backorder, so I can add some shims to the order.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
I've only had my B5M out three times and it was on carpet so it didn't get dirty but my front wheel bearings seem a little rough already. Seems like I remember reading about that being fairly common somewhere back in the thread.
Would you guys suggest just replacing the front wheel bearings or should I go ahead and just buy a full set? Should I buy ceramic if I'm not running stock and trying to remove every bit of friction possible?
-Chris
Would you guys suggest just replacing the front wheel bearings or should I go ahead and just buy a full set? Should I buy ceramic if I'm not running stock and trying to remove every bit of friction possible?
-Chris
Tech Champion
iTrader: (107)
Read the first post in this thread for the answer.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
As far as replacing all bearings, if you are still running kit bearings, then I would buy a new bearing kit. If you buy from AVID you can customize what type for each size bearing needed. I believe most just buy ceramics for the gear box.
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)
Q: I'm getting binding/grinding in my front wheel bearings, how can I fix this issue?
A: There was/is an issue with the crush washer that resides between the two front wheel bearings. AE has addressed the issue with a running change (to my knowledge). To fix the issue, simply get a new crush tube, buy better quality bearings (plenty of places sell bearings by the pack) or monitor the bearing inserts for molding issues. Also try a clamping hex with axle in the front (best solution, honestly).
A: There was/is an issue with the crush washer that resides between the two front wheel bearings. AE has addressed the issue with a running change (to my knowledge). To fix the issue, simply get a new crush tube, buy better quality bearings (plenty of places sell bearings by the pack) or monitor the bearing inserts for molding issues. Also try a clamping hex with axle in the front (best solution, honestly).
As far as replacing all bearings, if you are still running kit bearings, then I would buy a new bearing kit. If you buy from AVID you can customize what type for each size bearing needed. I believe most just buy ceramics for the gear box.
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)
http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...battery_brace/
This is the Factory RC AE B5m Carbon Fiber Shorty Brace with adjustable battery stop blocks. This brace replaces the stock plastic battery retainer bracket and allows you to use the adjustable battery stop instead of foam blocks. This brace allows you to run the battery shifted forward or rearward. Simply install the battery stop on either side, and adjust to your packs length to remove any slack. Remove a battery stop to allow full rearward or full forward positioning in the car. Fitment is snug and prevents the battery from shifting. This brace is designed to be narrow allowing for additional chassis flex in the car. Battery brace is made from 3mm Carbon Fiber and your choice of Heavy Duty Carbon Steel screws or Titanium Screws. Upgrade to Factory RC!
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Avid springs are great. get the spring kits so you can tune for conditions