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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:56 AM
  #15616  
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Well moron, I was more asking a question about roll centers and how it affects the handling of the car. And, since some guys on here were nice enough to explain the dynamics behind it, I now know WHY the change would have an effect, and how. So here's a step for you..

1. If you have nothing useful to provide, shut your mouth.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:10 AM
  #15617  
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
i do not believe that AE makes a bladder conversion for the 12mm shocks.
I used serpent bladders, work well. No leaks yet. I built them as vented setups.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:11 AM
  #15618  
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Well moron, I was more asking a question about roll centers and how it affects the handling of the car. And, since some guys on here were nice enough to explain the dynamics behind it, I now know WHY the change would have an effect, and how. So here's a step for you..

1. If you have nothing useful to provide, shut your mouth.
Here this will keep you busy for awhile.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Well moron, I was more asking a question about roll centers and how it affects the handling of the car. And, since some guys on here were nice enough to explain the dynamics behind it, I now know WHY the change would have an effect, and how. So here's a step for you..

1. If you have nothing useful to provide, shut your mouth.
he gave you about the best advise one can give for roll center adjustments. I have found that roll center adjustments will give different results based on the type of surface and how hard you brake on corner entry and how much throttle you give on exit.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:37 AM
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Thanks, found that after I originally posted. Should have searched "Camber links" instead of ball stud height. Found more info, and some stuff on the B5M page of petitrc.com as well. Our local track isn't open during the week, so unfortunately it's hard to go practice with these changes ahead of time. The only track time available, is race day, so was looking for information that would lead me to a starting point instead of running a bunch of different trials. Thanks again.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Thanks, found that after I originally posted. Should have searched "Camber links" instead of ball stud height. Found more info, and some stuff on the B5M page of petitrc.com as well. Our local track isn't open during the week, so unfortunately it's hard to go practice with these changes ahead of time. The only track time available, is race day, so was looking for information that would lead me to a starting point instead of running a bunch of different trials. Thanks again.
Heinen,

I have some links on the first page that might help. Under "other resources".
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Thanks, found that after I originally posted. Should have searched "Camber links" instead of ball stud height. Found more info, and some stuff on the B5M page of petitrc.com as well. Our local track isn't open during the week, so unfortunately it's hard to go practice with these changes ahead of time. The only track time available, is race day, so was looking for information that would lead me to a starting point instead of running a bunch of different trials. Thanks again.
try it one day during qualifying. one qualifier use no ball stud stud washer, the nes try 3-4mm of washers. note the feel of the car then compare the times for each.

it may not lead to the best finishes for that day. However, if you focus on just driving and making no mistakes with those changes you will get good information and feed back on what you will need to change moving forward.
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:36 AM
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That's a good idea, the only thing that stinks is usually through the qualifiers, the track still has allot of bite, and I am not really looking for more side bite then. Once the mains roll around, it sort of develops that thin film of dust, and depending whether or not the previous mains drivers decide to blow off the track... you sometimes do not know what you are going to get in terms of a track condition until you are on the stand. The car has been leaps and bounds better than the first times out on a slightly loose track... I have started using SK Red sauce for the main, added a little weight behind shock tower, tipped my rear shocks in to the first hole from center of shock tower, removed ball stud washer, and moved hubs all the way forward. I can now at least turn my punch back up and it stays under me off the corner. It could be just a tick tighter out back, so this week I bought the aluminum +2/-2 ball stud mount to try in the main and will start this weekend at -1. Thanks again!
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by heinen81
That's a good idea, the only thing that stinks is usually through the qualifiers, the track still has allot of bite, and I am not really looking for more side bite then. Once the mains roll around, it sort of develops that thin film of dust, and depending whether or not the previous mains drivers decide to blow off the track... you sometimes do not know what you are going to get in terms of a track condition until you are on the stand. The car has been leaps and bounds better than the first times out on a slightly loose track... I have started using SK Red sauce for the main, added a little weight behind shock tower, tipped my rear shocks in to the first hole from center of shock tower, removed ball stud washer, and moved hubs all the way forward. I can now at least turn my punch back up and it stays under me off the corner. It could be just a tick tighter out back, so this week I bought the aluminum +2/-2 ball stud mount to try in the main and will start this weekend at -1. Thanks again!
no problem, are you also running the RM rear arms? those are supposed to move the hubs forward a little more as well.
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:39 AM
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Not yet, but they are on the list. I believe it is another 1.5 mm further ahead if I remember right. We'll see how I am sitting after this weekend, and go from there if I feel I could stand to gain a little more. Dont want to change too much at once and move myself right back out of the ball park lol
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Vincent Ringler
I'M going to try and answer your Ball stud question. What I'M going to tell you will give you all the info you need for how raising /lowering ball stud feels to you on the track.

Are you ready:

1) Go to your local track

2) Drive the car (get a good feel for it)

3) Now raise/lower ball stud

4) Go drive the car

5) Think about how your car preformed. look at your lap times

Now you can tell us what you found out.....
Six posts and already suspended
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:12 PM
  #15627  
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Originally Posted by heinen81
Well moron, I was more asking a question about roll centers and how it affects the handling of the car. And, since some guys on here were nice enough to explain the dynamics behind it, I now know WHY the change would have an effect, and how. So here's a step for you..

1. If you have nothing useful to provide, shut your mouth.
Whether the guy was being a donkey or not. Keep YOURSELF out of trouble and use the report function. The mod staff will decide if a post is out of line.

(the fact that he's suspended is completely unrelated to his post in this thread)
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:22 PM
  #15628  
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^ ^ True. My bad, sorry everyone. I try to help anyone who may be looking for help, regardless if it seems obvious or not. I understand testing is the obvious way to determine what works, however with a limited schedule, I wanted to make sure I was at least starting on the right path to keep from wasting time on race day.
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:52 PM
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Default New item from RCShox

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13650408-post2283.html



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Old 11-11-2014, 03:52 PM
  #15630  
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nice
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