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Old 07-03-2005, 08:41 PM   #16
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the Associated RC10GT Plus RTR doesnt come in any other colors besides red right?

is this a good truck? http://www.southeastrc.com/item/KYO31093GSB
and is this a good deal? http://www.southeastrc.com/Items/Std...1&adp=froggle1
thanx for the help

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Old 07-03-2005, 08:59 PM   #17
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From Towerhobbies: Pre-painted sleek Blue and white body with full sticker sheet.Heres the full link
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLU0&P=7

Sean
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Old 09-21-2005, 01:46 AM   #18
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found this thread, which suits my questions hehe...

looking at either xxnt ad2 or the factory team rc10gt... questions i have regarding the gt is what shaft does it take sg or threaded?

i know the losi is threaded only...

also i was told there is something i can put onto a sg cranked motor to use it as a threaded, but i'm not too sure if thats true or not..

i'm just looking at a racing truck which i can use the same motors as my tourer....... to save on motor costs if possible.

also where is the best hobby shops online or shops in "australia" that sell associated products like the ft gt or xxnt ad2 for competitive prices..?
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Old 09-21-2005, 06:41 AM   #19
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I know the gt takes a "short threaded shaft" motor. I think it is the same style the losi takes, but I'm not entirely sure.

that mod you were talking about, the the threaded crank thing, it doesn't work that way, I know when losi had the gtx and nxt trucks, they had an adapter that you had to put on a threaded shaft and "converted" it to a sg shaft. That was the only way the motr would work in the truck.

Don't know if you want to use the same motor that is in your touring car, it won't provide enough torque, especially if you are going to race.

you could find a cheap .12 motor, look an ebay for an cv .12cv or cv-r, they don't put out the power, the cv-r does, about 1 hp, but they are great in terms of driveability, tuning, and life. You won't be able to find a new one, but they are cheap as hell to rebuild. I rebuilt both my cv's for $60, 2 new duratrax chrome piston/sleeves and 2 os rods.
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Old 09-21-2005, 06:50 AM   #20
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GT's are hard to beat. They are built like tanks.
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Old 09-21-2005, 07:42 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homer Allman
GT's are hard to beat. They are built like tanks.
couldn't agree more
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Old 09-22-2005, 02:11 AM   #22
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i currently have 3 gt's and one xxx nt,i think you need to go with the gt,it is alot more durable for bashing,the best upgrade to make it even more durable would be to get the rpm arms for it,they are bullet proof,i bought the xxx-nt to bash on and it is not bash worthy by far,so i went and got the rtr gt and omg is that thing so much stronger,there are more hop ups avail for the gt as far as strength goes,but the factory team gt would not be a good choice for a beginer,for the simple fact of price,and you will have to assemble it,pick up a rtr plus gt,you will be happy with it.
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Old 09-22-2005, 06:25 AM   #23
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Although the XXX nt is maybe a bit better driving truck it's a bit fragile with all the graphite stuff.
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Old 09-23-2005, 12:31 AM   #24
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I very much beg to differ. Losi took their time to get the XXX-NT AD2 right...a lot of thought went into making the truck stronger and tougher for the average racer and hobbyist versus the original XXX-NT ADE trucks.

I'd put the strength of the AD2 up against a GT any day. I feel our trucks stay good longer instead of needing to be re-built all the time, and I think it takes no less work to make our truck perfect than it does a GT. There is not one aftermarket part on my truck that is necessary to make the truck any stronger than it comes out of the box.
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Old 09-23-2005, 04:17 AM   #25
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Calm down there slugger..... seems somebody got their feathers a little rustled...... No offence, but your a Losi employee and Homer is a track owner, I wonder who really has more experience with ALL brands of vehicles....HMMMMMM.......
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Old 09-23-2005, 03:53 PM   #26
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aaron is right, my 2 gts are tough as nails because of the parts I added to them.

rpm arm mounts, alloy rear bulkhead, trinity one piece motor mount and tranny brace, titainium hinge pins and tie rods, rpm ball cups, doubled up shock towers, not to mention all the washers and lock nuts under every screw.

The local guys' ad2's are all bone stock and they have survived horrendous crashes without any problems.
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Old 09-24-2005, 01:04 PM   #27
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No feathers rustled at all..the original XXX-NT did have a couple durability issues and those were a few of the things that Losi addressed when updating the truck to the AD2. Every plastic/graphite part in a stress-area was beefed up, and the material used to make a few of the higher-stressed pieces were changed, to make a much more durable vehicle.

It's tougher, with more rear traction, and it's easier to drive. I run the Trinity front pivot block on my truck because we'd usually add the same amount of weight if it wasn't on there (I've never seen anyone brake the plastic one). If you'd like, I'll run a plastic one and a 1/2 ounce of weight for the next year..just to prove a point .
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Old 09-24-2005, 01:24 PM   #28
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I don't think there's any need for that AW. lol From what I've seen the losis are durable enough that I'd race with one. I just happen to like my GT and don't have any reason to switch. I think breakage comes with how guys drive. My buddy can break all kinds of parts on his gt while I break none. I'm sure with a losi he'd break all kinds of parts and I'd still break none. It's all in the chances you take and how hard you tend to tube it and where.
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Old 09-24-2005, 03:25 PM   #29
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I have had both, and they are about equall imo, the gt has the toughest plastic your not going to break, but they strip spur gears all the time, and the clutch bearing blow out, and the chassis has way to much flex imo.

the losi arms will brake more then the gt if you land really bad, but the clutch bearings and spur gear are almost bullet proof,

So I beleive its a trade off.

I personally have experienced both and prefer the way the losi handles, and Losi has AWESOME CUSTOMER SUPPORT. whear AE has NON imo
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Old 09-24-2005, 03:33 PM   #30
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Dave, I think the trick to not blow clutch bearings and spur is to put a thin washer behind the clutchnut against the flywheel. That's what I do and am almost done with my second season of duratrax clutch bearings. It gives some room between the eclip and the bearing for expansion. Gear mesh I set all the same with the gt and my t4, and my carpet cars. I slide em close and if I can't wiggle the spur while I hold the pinion or clutch it's to tight for me. A bit of play does wonders. I do set my gt mesh a hair more loose than my electrics though.

Really though I do wish I had an AD2 to run and compare the handling of both trucks.
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