Building the perfect stock buggy...
10-08-2013, 07:30 PM
#1
Building the perfect stock buggy...
As the title says, I want to build a buggy to race stock for indoor season this winter. I am thinking something mid motor with the Tekin Just Stock setup. I know MIP has the new Puck stock racing stuff too. If you were to build a buggy for stock racing, what would you pick?
10-08-2013, 08:48 PM
#5
I would say b4.2 because you can get alot the alum oval bits, and slipper eliminator. Alot stuff for it if you look.
I find my Hobby Pro prs1 v2 to be very good in stock.
and ofcourse all the light weight eletronics as mentions right above
But then again stock is all about keeping the momentum up in the corners.
10-08-2013, 09:56 PM
#6
If you want mid motor and $$$
rb6 donor car, a vega elite rb6 conversion, killshot 17.5 HT/HT, lrp flow or hw stock 3.1, 16ga wiring, tires, open cell foams, aka rims, MIP pucks system for lightest driveline, if track allows, soft pack 2s or shorty, ko RX, ghea pistons, exotek aluminum bits for durability in front (rears aluminum in the vega), titanium TB, titanium screw kit of course. I am probably missing something in this I feel hehe
rb6 donor car, a vega elite rb6 conversion, killshot 17.5 HT/HT, lrp flow or hw stock 3.1, 16ga wiring, tires, open cell foams, aka rims, MIP pucks system for lightest driveline, if track allows, soft pack 2s or shorty, ko RX, ghea pistons, exotek aluminum bits for durability in front (rears aluminum in the vega), titanium TB, titanium screw kit of course. I am probably missing something in this I feel hehe
10-08-2013, 10:19 PM
#7
Durango DEX210 with a carbon chassis and ti screw kit. Shorty servo, Ti turnbuckles. All wires as short as possible (copper is HEAVY). Skinny shocks as the big bore shocks add a bit of weight. Don't buy any alloy parts as that stuff weighs more than the plastic it replaces.
10-09-2013, 04:37 AM
#9
How many here have 17.5 classes where the comp is so fierce that you have to spring for lightened drivetrain parts, ceramic bearings, modded chassis, etc. to be competetive?
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
Last edited by t0p_sh0tta; 10-09-2013 at 06:17 AM.
10-09-2013, 05:39 AM
#10
How many here have 17.5 classes where the comp is so fiece that you have to spring for lightened drivetrain parts, ceramic bearings, modded chassis, etc. to be competetive?
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
pick any car that you are consistent with, if you need titanium screws to get faster then you're not far from being a world champ anyway
10-09-2013, 07:40 AM
#11
Composite craft foam core carbon fiber chassis, Andy's Arm's, Team pit stop chain drive trannie, Kyosho Gold shocks, A&L steering, Tecnacraft tie rods, MIP..... etc and then 20 hours with a dremel.
oh sorry
musta been dreaming about 1989
SNAP OUT OF IT MAN !
oh sorry
musta been dreaming about 1989
SNAP OUT OF IT MAN !
10-09-2013, 08:00 AM
#12
Actually I don't think that's a half bad way of thinking about it. Stock class is all about utilizing the power you have which means super light weight while not breaking. A light car is definitely an advantage when power is low.
10-09-2013, 08:06 AM
#13
How many here have 17.5 classes where the comp is so fierce that you have to spring for lightened drivetrain parts, ceramic bearings, modded chassis, etc. to be competetive?
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
10-09-2013, 08:16 AM
#14
B4.2 - JC Ti TB's - JC Rod Ends - Avid Steering bell crank - Lunar RC aluminum rack - Avid Motor centering kit - Avid ESC Shelf - Low Profile servo (airtronics here) - HW JuStock esc - Trinity d3.5 17.5 (OR Big Blue Bad Ass, if your track allows) - Proper gearing - Proper tires - No Mistakes
If you want to get crazier with the build.
Lunsford Ti shock standoffs - Lunar RC lightened outdrives - Lunar RC lightened idler gear - Avid Triad slipper (shaves 25g in rotating mass)
If you want to get crazier with the build.
Lunsford Ti shock standoffs - Lunar RC lightened outdrives - Lunar RC lightened idler gear - Avid Triad slipper (shaves 25g in rotating mass)
10-09-2013, 08:17 AM
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
How many here have 17.5 classes where the comp is so fierce that you have to spring for lightened drivetrain parts, ceramic bearings, modded chassis, etc. to be competetive?
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.
One of the guys I race with locally took down 17.5 at Motorama with nothing more than a B4.2 (might even have been a .1). No special parts, no fancy motors or batteries, just consistiency.
Learn to drive efficiently and consistiently, and ALL of the cars mentioned will be deadly effective. There's no need to drop $$$ on speciality parts/cars/etc. until your driving is flawless and you're looking for tenths and thousanths, instead of seconds.
Get a car that suits your driving/tuning style, and blow the rest on tires, springs and track time.