whats the hottes 2 wd buggy
#32
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Our track has a mixture but for the most part it is B4.2's, 90% of the K cars are RB5 SP2 Worlds, with a couple RB6's (indoor high bite blue groove slicks and sauce type of track.)
We have local and world pros Billy Easton running the Serpent, and JR Mitch running TLR stuff.
I'd say we are 50/50 for AE and Kyosho cars for the most part
We have local and world pros Billy Easton running the Serpent, and JR Mitch running TLR stuff.
I'd say we are 50/50 for AE and Kyosho cars for the most part
#33
We just had a thread like this about a week or two ago and it was 8 pages long. Not sure where it went.
I love my B4.2. It drives great. But I like my 22 parts wear a lot better. I need to find a buggy that is durable and doesnt wear out like the 22 but drives like the B4.
I love my B4.2. It drives great. But I like my 22 parts wear a lot better. I need to find a buggy that is durable and doesnt wear out like the 22 but drives like the B4.
#34
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
We just had a thread like this about a week or two ago and it was 8 pages long. Not sure where it went.
I love my B4.2. It drives great. But I like my 22 parts wear a lot better. I need to find a buggy that is durable and doesnt wear out like the 22 but drives like the B4.
I love my B4.2. It drives great. But I like my 22 parts wear a lot better. I need to find a buggy that is durable and doesnt wear out like the 22 but drives like the B4.
#35
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Serpent Spyder SRX-2 should be the ticket! It is going to have the best shock absorber and it is going to have a plastic chassis, which means the car will work on all grip levels. If its anything like the Ebuggy, quality definitely wont be a problem! Everybody knows Billy wont put out junk. Not sure on price yet.
Seems like the 22 excels on high grip but when the grip goes away so does the car. Very durable. Outdrives/axles wear fast, Shocks shafts every couple weeks and lots of upgrades needed. $400.00 to get going
RC10 seems to work well on every surface but you need a new car every 4 or 5 weeks. $300.00 to get going
RB6 seems to work well even though it has an aluminum chassis. High quality shocks, gearbox etc. and around $450.00 to get one going.
I would wait on the Spyder
Seems like the 22 excels on high grip but when the grip goes away so does the car. Very durable. Outdrives/axles wear fast, Shocks shafts every couple weeks and lots of upgrades needed. $400.00 to get going
RC10 seems to work well on every surface but you need a new car every 4 or 5 weeks. $300.00 to get going
RB6 seems to work well even though it has an aluminum chassis. High quality shocks, gearbox etc. and around $450.00 to get one going.
I would wait on the Spyder
#36
Tech Adept
hottest one is the one you haven't see yet. Few have. Come nats or more likely worlds you will see. -R
#37
No car is "dialed" solely because it exists. What a crap term. There are lots of good cars that are all capable of winning or losing. Buying the "best" car and using someone else's setup sheet is a guarantee of nothing. Pick a car. Then learn how to tune it yourself and then practice driving it. This is the exact advice that should be posted to every "which car" type of thread.
#38
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
You're looking for a TRF201 then. Pretty similar to a B4 but the fit and finish is excellent. I have 6 months on mine and have broken 1 a arm and the front shock tower. I've yet to replace anything for wear, though I am getting ready to rebuild the diff for the first time this week.
#39
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
You're looking for a TRF201 then. Pretty similar to a B4 but the fit and finish is excellent. I have 6 months on mine and have broken 1 a arm and the front shock tower. I've yet to replace anything for wear, though I am getting ready to rebuild the diff for the first time this week.
Team C evo is also a very good deal. Parts quality and wear seems better than associated so far, though I would not put it up there with say Kyosho. I owned an RB5 SP2, and I dare say nothing really quite meets Kyosho quality - though the Tamiya TRF (not neccessarilly their other stuff) is the closest so far.
Here is my summary and every racer will likely agree and disagree with some of this:
AE B4 series: very easy to tune, great steering (especially off power), great parts availability, but poor parts wear.
TLR 22: tuneable but not generally as easy to dial in as the B4 series. Very good parts availability, quality and wear.
Kyosho: best quality and wear, usually some track availability for parts but not always. Can be dialed in to win, but takes more time like the TLR.
#40
Tech Rookie
The B4.2 always seems to land on its wheels after being cartwheeled down the straight. At my level of driver skill, this is probably the best way to improve my lap times. No need to wait for a turn marshal!
#42
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
The Serpent Spyder when it comes out, if it is anything like their 1/8 scale, how billy easton describes, and how it looks on the track, granted all by a world champion. But it is resiliant and it looks amazing. Handles all the small bumps like an 1/8 buggy just soaks them up, corner speed is insane, he is on the throttle easily 1/4 turn before anyone else exiting.
Serpent Spyder SRX-2 should be the ticket! It is going to have the best shock absorber and it is going to have a plastic chassis, which means the car will work on all grip levels. If its anything like the Ebuggy, quality definitely wont be a problem! Everybody knows Billy wont put out junk. Not sure on price yet.
I would wait on the Spyder
I would wait on the Spyder
#43
#45
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Who said anything about best ever? I made my contribution to the thread earlier i was simply letting another member know of a buggy that might suit him in particular. Also since this is an open forum i can technically claim whatever i want. My opinion is simply that, my opinion.