Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread >

Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree35Likes

Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: alex4r
Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-31-2018, 01:41 AM
  #2311  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 29
Default

Originally Posted by tel
I'll cut a full sheet of the fan mounts and post them for sale on rctech or on ebay. I'll provide a link when they are ready. Should be ready in a day or two.
sweet. pm me when theyre done.
k_chris is offline  
Old 01-31-2018, 08:50 AM
  #2312  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
 
alex4r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 366
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

I would be interested in one too
alex4r is offline  
Old 02-01-2018, 11:41 PM
  #2313  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 29
Default rear center brace

does anyone on here run the rear center brace? either the kyosho alum. one or the Tebo carbon one? if so, what are your thoughts?
k_chris is offline  
Old 02-05-2018, 10:29 PM
  #2314  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jeromerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vietnam
Posts: 1,085
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

If any of you are having issues with the ZX6.6 front arms, I strongly recommend running the yoko arms, the mod is simple, and I am using all my kyosho parts accept for the arms. I was never really hard on front arms, more frustrated that they only sell with a front and a rear, that being said, I actually made a mistake and used the yz2 front gullwing arms, the difference is that they YZ2 arm is like the rb6.6 arm in that the shock mounts inside the arm while the ZX6.6 and YZ4 arms the shocks mount to the outside. I did not shim the inside of the arm, and I have been much more aggressive and taken big hits, in fact I broke a front tower last weekend, yet the front arms are perfectly intact, nice small cuts from riding the pipe hitting the hold downs the whole 9 yards. I also have much better steering. With the sway bar I did not even change my ball cup, it is a bit lose on the yoko arm but it will not/or at least hasn't fallen off.

All you need to do is drill the inside hinge pin hole to 3mm and run a reamer through it, then with the outside hole next take a grinder or file to the nipple on the inside of the arm and grind it flush with the arm. The front you need to mark your drill bit to the length of the outer pin, then only drill to that depth. Then for the outside you can shim it to your desired track length with shim...
jeromerc is offline  
Old 02-07-2018, 02:00 AM
  #2315  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 29
Default

Originally Posted by jeromerc
If any of you are having issues with the ZX6.6 front arms, I strongly recommend running the yoko arms, the mod is simple, and I am using all my kyosho parts accept for the arms. I was never really hard on front arms, more frustrated that they only sell with a front and a rear, that being said, I actually made a mistake and used the yz2 front gullwing arms, the difference is that they YZ2 arm is like the rb6.6 arm in that the shock mounts inside the arm while the ZX6.6 and YZ4 arms the shocks mount to the outside. I did not shim the inside of the arm, and I have been much more aggressive and taken big hits, in fact I broke a front tower last weekend, yet the front arms are perfectly intact, nice small cuts from riding the pipe hitting the hold downs the whole 9 yards. I also have much better steering. With the sway bar I did not even change my ball cup, it is a bit lose on the yoko arm but it will not/or at least hasn't fallen off.

All you need to do is drill the inside hinge pin hole to 3mm and run a reamer through it, then with the outside hole next take a grinder or file to the nipple on the inside of the arm and grind it flush with the arm. The front you need to mark your drill bit to the length of the outer pin, then only drill to that depth. Then for the outside you can shim it to your desired track length with shim...
ive been wanting to try this, ill set it up and see what I think
k_chris is offline  
Old 02-08-2018, 02:08 PM
  #2316  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 29
Default

Originally Posted by oPAULo
Where can you buy T-works accessories in the U.S.? Trying to find the aluminum center drive shafts and the new drive shafts they just released.
I couldn't find any us dealers for t-works. I had to order direct from t-works. their website says 10-20 days for shipping . not too bad unless you need them now
k_chris is offline  
Old 02-08-2018, 02:15 PM
  #2317  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 29
Default

Originally Posted by tel
I laser cut a fan mount out of acrylic for front motor layout. I'm running front motor pushed forward 8mm. Fan sits inside the body cab and the cross brace keeps the fans from puking out the bottom on hard, flat landings.
what did you use to secure the fan mount to the center diff mount? any other hardware besides the 2 screws?
k_chris is offline  
Old 02-08-2018, 02:21 PM
  #2318  
tel
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chandler,AZ
Posts: 233
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by k_chris
what did you use to secure the fan mount to the center diff mount? any other hardware besides the 2 screws?
I just used longer screws and spaced the fan mount up with 2mm ballstud washers to have clearance to the front topdeck.

Last edited by tel; 02-08-2018 at 02:32 PM.
tel is offline  
Old 02-08-2018, 02:30 PM
  #2319  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bedford, IN
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tel
I just used longer screws and spaced the fan mount up with 2mm ballstud washers to have clearance the front topdeck.
Got mine!! They look fantastic! Just got to order up the bigger fan. THANKS AGAIN!
oPAULo is offline  
Old 02-11-2018, 06:50 PM
  #2320  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jeromerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vietnam
Posts: 1,085
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by k_chris
ive been wanting to try this, ill set it up and see what I think
You won't be disappointed. I know many people say to use the Yoko front end parts, but I am running all K parts accept of course for the arms. I have tons of steering, and if it is too much, you can order the plus 1mm front flat arms which are the same length of the Kyosho arms. I am running the 1mm shorter arms and I have tons of steering, it pulls hard into the corners making it much more aggressive. I used to have to go a bit slower into the sharp corners, but with the gullwing arms that are 1mm shorter, I can go in much harder and the back end rotates perfectly. I did it for more dependability as the front arms seemed a bit weaker than I would like, similar to the old tki3 arms, but with the change I got the strength I wanted, and much more steering as well. Once I run out of front arms for my RB6.6 I will be doing this mod for it and my RZ6 as well. It will be a while as my rb arms are much stronger than the zx ones...
jeromerc is offline  
Old 02-12-2018, 12:29 AM
  #2321  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 36
Default

Originally Posted by jeromerc
You won't be disappointed. I know many people say to use the Yoko front end parts, but I am running all K parts accept of course for the arms. I have tons of steering, and if it is too much, you can order the plus 1mm front flat arms which are the same length of the Kyosho arms. I am running the 1mm shorter arms and I have tons of steering, it pulls hard into the corners making it much more aggressive. I used to have to go a bit slower into the sharp corners, but with the gullwing arms that are 1mm shorter, I can go in much harder and the back end rotates perfectly. I did it for more dependability as the front arms seemed a bit weaker than I would like, similar to the old tki3 arms, but with the change I got the strength I wanted, and much more steering as well. Once I run out of front arms for my RB6.6 I will be doing this mod for it and my RZ6 as well. It will be a while as my rb arms are much stronger than the zx ones...
If you just run the Yokomo arms is anything else needed? Did you change front A and B inserts at all for the shorter arms?
binarysolo is offline  
Old 02-12-2018, 07:42 AM
  #2322  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 628
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

What would be needed to swap the ball diffs to gear diffs on the ZX 6.6? I'm assuming new diff cases and the gear diffs themselves. Where would I find the gear diffs and cases?
Borik is offline  
Old 02-12-2018, 07:59 AM
  #2323  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (38)
 
dmcguire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 424
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Borik
What would be needed to swap the ball diffs to gear diffs on the ZX 6.6? I'm assuming new diff cases and the gear diffs themselves. Where would I find the gear diffs and cases?
No new diff cases required, just two sets of LAW50
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...olaw50/p374578

It's a good idea to swap the 5x8x2.5mm plastic bushings for the same size bearings when you're building them.
dmcguire is offline  
Old 02-12-2018, 08:26 AM
  #2324  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 628
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dmcguire
No new diff cases required, just two sets of LAW50
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...olaw50/p374578

It's a good idea to swap the 5x8x2.5mm plastic bushings for the same size bearings when you're building them.
Awesome, thank you. I've read that using gear diff's is better as traction increases. I've seen other wheelers with gear diff's in med traction as well, seems to work just as well.
Borik is offline  
Old 02-12-2018, 11:32 PM
  #2325  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 29
Default

Originally Posted by Borik
Awesome, thank you. I've read that using gear diff's is better as traction increases. I've seen other wheelers with gear diff's in med traction as well, seems to work just as well.
yep, I think gear diffs are the way to go on med-high traction. for me, it seems to make the car easier to drive. easier for me to tune also. and the low maintenance is sweet. as mentioned above, gotta change out the plastic bushings with bearings .also change out the steel cross pins for the vvc velvet coated cross pins inside the diff.
k_chris is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.