R/C Tech Forums - Tekno ET48 Thread

Most transmitters require to put the channel 2 (motor) on reverse go get it working. Then you calibrate esc with the transmitter, should be ok when you have been running the esc with the same tx already.
to change direction, you either change motor cables (you may not do that with sensored motors!), or change it within the program box/software.

That does not sound good at all, the problems with leaking diffs, bad diffcups (at least some have that problem), loosening pins, breaking diff cases. It's supposed to be top of the shelf stuff?
I wanted to get one, and I can't send bad diff cases or cups back to the US?!? Are you kidding? In case that they want to futher sell cars in Europe, they should think about that philosophy...

Yea, I was already using this Tx/ESC combo then this happened when I installed it in the ET48. But it is fixed now and I am very happy with it now. Except for the CD. I took it all apart and rebuilt it but it left a line of fluid again after a 5 min very easy run. I am going to try running it again later today After thinking about it more, it may be residual fluid/grease from assembly. Because it looks like it is coming from the lower/bottom section of the diff. And I don't know how it could leak from there since there is a O-ring and shim over the o-ring. but there was also a little that I had to wipe off the bottom of the spur too so IDK.

Slapjack

07-21-2015 06:37 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Just wanted to post a couple pics of my ET. I finished it up last night. I am now rebuilding a EB48 that I bought from a RCT member. I had a lot of fund building the ET48, so I decided to disassemble the EB48.2 replace all the bearings and fluids mainly so I could put it back together. The only thing I would have liked to see was a easier way to remove the diffs (like the Team Durango DEX line for example). You basically remove 4 screws and the diff pops out. The ET kit I also bought from a RCT member. He painted the body and that was as far as he got, so the body color wouldn't have been my first choice but it is growing on me.

You can sort of see the front wheel in the first pic how it is toe-out. I setup the tie rod length like the manual says (I am sure others have noticed this when they are done with their build). But are the fronts supposed to have that much toe -out? Or should I adjust that tie rod length in some?

One Mile Up

07-21-2015 03:09 PM

Your truck is look'n good Slapjack! I dig the green... and those badlands look killer!

Slapjack

07-21-2015 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by One Mile Up (Post 14105229)

Your truck is look'n good Slapjack! I dig the green... and those badlands look killer!

Thanks buddy... I apreciate it. I really love this truck (everything except a leaky center diff) but I'll get that figured out eventually

Mav-07

07-23-2015 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14105467)

Thanks buddy... I apreciate it. I really love this truck (everything except a leaky center diff) but I'll get that figured out eventually

I had the same issue with the center diff in my 1st ET48, i have 2 now , I replace the spur gear with the hardened steel 44t and have never had an issue with it again.
Nice looking rig man :nod:

Slapjack

07-24-2015 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mav-07 (Post 14108150)

I had the same issue with the center diff in my 1st ET48, i have 2 now , I replace the spur gear with the hardened steel 44t and have never had an issue with it again.
Nice looking rig man :nod:

Thanks! I spoke with Tekno and they also said it was common in their kits.
1. it could be residual oil/grease from assembly but should stop eventually. Or They also said I could get the steel spur, like you mentioned.
2. The issue I had with the CD being notchy also is common with the plastic spur because once you tighten the spur down it deforms, so it should only be snug, but even then you will still feel the gears when turning the outdrives until the diff is broken in 15-20 packs.
3. I also had an issue with a cross pin not going in the outdrive hole inside the diff because the shim on the underside of the ring gear was covering some of the hole (I made a post about this on pg. 285). They hadn't heard this before but sent me a new ring gear to try. We are thinking it is the little step that is machined in maybe too tall causing interference. For now I just sanded the pin down to a size small enouh to slide through the hole.

rcnut87

07-24-2015 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcnut87 (Post 14091260)

Thanks that makes sense. I ordered one for the buggy, ill probally throw it on the truggy first just to check it out and see.

No clearance issues any otjer ideas as to why ots not recomended?

Matthew_Armeni

07-24-2015 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcnut87 (Post 14109384)

No clearance issues any otjer ideas as to why ots not recomended?

The only reason it was not recommended was because you'll lose rear downforce and a little bit of rear weight bias. Other than that, it's perfectly fine to use on truggies.

qstorm777

07-25-2015 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14101826)

I took my et out for the first time today. Didn't turn out like i would have liked. First I had to reverse the throttle and steering on the tx which is no biggie. Then I drove it around and noticed that it wasn't nearly as quick as I thought it would be. Now I usualy run 5s but I started with 4s for the first run. But it seemed like reverse has more punch than fwd. so I'm thinking maybe the mmm2 esc needs some adjustment. Maye some things got messed up when I unplugged it and rewired it in this truck from my other truck. Any ideas there? Then I noticed a line of diff fluid under the cd. Now I asked this awhile back but when I tighten the spur down tight it makes it tough to turn and notchy so someone here said to back the screws of a little which I did and it felt a little better but now I'm leaking fluid. What can I do about this? I am just disassembling now to re build it and make sure I didn't miss something but so far it looks good. So the two thugs I need help with is the power issue (I am running mamba monster 2/2200kv with 16t pinion. It seems like the truck was doing maybe 20 mph. I had this same setup in my other truck and it hauled ass. And I also need advice on the center diff leaking and not being smooth turning.

On the leaking diff, if it is coming from the cup/ring gear area, you may be able to sand the cup to get the mating surface with the ring gear flat. I had this problem with one diff cup on my nt48 (1st issue, have 3 tekno cars) and the sanding fixed it. Lay a piece of maybe 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and go over it with the diff cup in a circular motion.

rcnut87

07-27-2015 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni (Post 14109434)

The only reason it was not recommended was because you'll lose rear downforce and a little bit of rear weight bias. Other than that, it's perfectly fine to use on truggies.

Thanks!!

Slapjack

07-27-2015 08:34 PM

Ok this is such a dumb question but all 4 of my wheels are stuck on the hexes and I can't remove them. Any ideas how to get them off without breaking something? I have never had wheels get stuck on so damn tight. I've had to tap on the back with a socket before but these suckers are really stuck on there this time.

Maddog94

07-28-2015 02:49 PM

Selling my et48, LOADED!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...irtronics.html

Slapjack

07-28-2015 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14113808)

I figured out what happened here. I'm not used to having th back of the wheel nuts being serated to grip the wheel. I tightened the nut so much that it smashed the plastic around the threaded stud part of the wheel hex so I couldn't pull it back off. I had to disassemble the front leaving the hub and axles connected to the wheel setting it on 2 paint cans and knocking the hex out with a hammer. What a pain. Now I'll have to open that hole up in the wheel so it fits again. Hopefully it doesn't create slop in wheel. What a bone head move.

trisfx

07-30-2015 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14104528)

You can sort of see the front wheel in the first pic how it is toe-out. I setup the tie rod length like the manual says (I am sure others have noticed this when they are done with their build). But are the fronts supposed to have that much toe -out? Or should I adjust that tie rod length in some?

Not 100% sure (photo angle for this is not easy to check), but it looks like a lot of toe-out... Mine after the build had just a little toe out. I was in a chalet for the build and forgot a ruler, but I use the pict in the manual (rods lenght are 1:1 size in the manual)
Cheers m8!

B_Coppola

07-30-2015 06:15 PM

Anyone have any idea if/when Leadfinger is releasing their ET48 body? I need another body but I want to see how the LFR one looks before pulling the trigger on another stock one.

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