SMC v Turnigy = Ferrari v Datson !!

No comparison...Great advice.

I gotta say, SMC has AWESOME packs at AWESOME prices IMO... And the customer service is second to none! I just received a warranty replacement pack last night due to a couple cells not taking a charge any longer... :D

+1

+1

SO - After burning a good amount of laps at the track with the ET-48 I have noticed a weird issue...

The rear diff-case bearing (where the main drive-shaft connects) was almost completely popped out of the case and the drive-cup was also very loose and just needed the set-screw tightened up...

Is the bearing popping out an issue others are seeing - or is it just me? I'm certainly not worried about it... I just thought I'd post up what I saw and see if someone else was experiencing the same and maybe even share if there is a fix for the problem...

Thanks!

~Darryl :D

Your bearing popping out is most likely the result of the drivecup coming loose. I like to spray the drivecup with motor spray or brake cleaner, let it dry, then use loctite with a new setscrew. I also like to attach the setscrew with the bulkhead in my hands so it's possible to push the pinion gear in with my thumb, you don't want there to be any play.

I think that the diff coupler (TKR5075) holds that bearing in place. So when the coupler came loose, it allowed the bearing to come out. A little blue loc-tite on the set screw and make sure it is tight, and you should not have any more issues.
Also check the front coupler under the steering rack. That one is hard to see and to get to. Not fun when you notice the front coupler is loose just before a race. That happened to me once after the first build of my EB48. Just some break in and I am sure I did not get it tight enough to begin with.

What Matt said too! :)

I use red Loctite never had one come loose. And to remove it alittle heat from a lighter softens the Loctite.

I like to take it is setup further and either shim it out so the set screw sits on the machined lip, or dremel a slight dip into the flat spot so the coupler can't move.

I'm having a hard time visioning what you're saying here to be honest... could you show me a picture?

Hello everyone!!! I have just created the "Tekno Rc Owners Club" group on Facebook. Any Tekno owner is welcome to join. The page is to do with anything Tekno. Ask questions, show off your rig, and help others. Feel free to join! Id post the url but it wont let me so search for Tekno Rc Owners Club.

Thanks!
MIP Chris

The rear diff pinion gear should be pressed tight from the inside of the diff case on the actual gear so there is virtually no slop when you tighten the set screw on the coupler for your rear center dogbone. Make sure the output is clean and dry, use thread locker on the grub screw and don't forget the small washer. This shouldn't be so tight that it binds up, but it shouldn't allow much if any forward/backward motion on the diff pinion gear. It is also very important that you get the set screw into the cut portion on the output shaft of the rear diff pinion (same for the front). This will help prevent a failure if done correctly. I suggest a new bearing as well at this point.

I think he is talking about this: http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...ddendum_01.pdf

Listed for the SCT but same principal

^^ Exactly, thanks Mizchief

Can someone tell me what these Protc3 inserts are? And where to get them? Thanks.