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Old 05-19-2014 | 07:29 PM
  #2806  
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Originally Posted by mkl
Ok, so I have been reading through this thread and am starting to get an irrational desire to buy one of these.
1. From what I gather, I would need a servo with at least 300oz of torque. Anybody have the Protek 170S?
2. it seems a lot of people like 2000kv truggy motor, but I have a 1900kv T8 buggy motor. I would be using 4s batteries. Will this be a good enough motor with an RX-8?
Matt Wolter was running that motor in truggy last year at AMS 4.0.
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Old 05-19-2014 | 08:04 PM
  #2807  
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cool. my truck is on it way, be here tomorrow. Is there anything I MUST do during build? Any upgrades I MUST install? Thanks for the info, and yes I doing my best to ready the 188 pages fast I can
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Old 05-19-2014 | 11:28 PM
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Guys running a 15t without sanding down the brace is a fine mesh?
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Old 05-20-2014 | 05:37 AM
  #2809  
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Originally Posted by mkl
Ok, so I have been reading through this thread and am starting to get an irrational desire to buy one of these.
1. From what I gather, I would need a servo with at least 300oz of torque. Anybody have the Protek 170S?
2. it seems a lot of people like 2000kv truggy motor, but I have a 1900kv T8 buggy motor. I would be using 4s batteries. Will this be a good enough motor with an RX-8?
I started with a Protek 130t and switched out for a 170S. I have to say it is the most badass servo I have ever used. Totally overkill on 7.4. I want to put one in everything I drive. Some will say it makes your truck twitchy due to the speed and torque but it's exactly how I like it. After I ran through a pack at the track I went inside to run my SCT410 with a savox 1258tg which is supposed to be fast and I was running into walls getting used to having to turn so much earlier. I have since put the 130t in my SC and prefer it over the Savox. I have not had any issues with my 2 Protek servos (knock on wood) and will buy more in the future if they proove to be consistand and durable.
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Old 05-20-2014 | 05:37 AM
  #2810  
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Originally Posted by mamdot91
Guys running a 15t without sanding down the brace is a fine mesh?
Perfect mesh for me with a 15t.
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Old 05-20-2014 | 07:04 AM
  #2811  
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Originally Posted by mamdot91
Guys running a 15t without sanding down the brace is a fine mesh?
I had to sand my brace, the 15t pinion would only partially mesh for me.
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Old 05-20-2014 | 07:54 AM
  #2812  
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Originally Posted by cannonballs
cool. my truck is on it way, be here tomorrow. Is there anything I MUST do during build? Any upgrades I MUST install? Thanks for the info, and yes I doing my best to ready the 188 pages fast I can
Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
A longer screw. the stock screw is a M4x10mm (TKR1443 on step L-3 page 18 of the manual). This only leaves a tiny bit of thread left in the case and the team is pretty sure this is causing it to break.

Many of us run a M4x14mm. I noticed it almost pops into the rear case but still clears everything. May want to try a M4x12mm if 14 makes you un easy.
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Old 05-21-2014 | 08:04 AM
  #2813  
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Originally Posted by cannonballs
cool. my truck is on it way, be here tomorrow. Is there anything I MUST do during build? Any upgrades I MUST install? Thanks for the info, and yes I doing my best to ready the 188 pages fast I can
I think the included Tekno plastic horns have gotten a little better, but I wouldn't bother with them and just go ahead and get an Aluminium horn.

Other than that I think most are running more like 15-20-5 in the diffs vs. stock, otherwise handles great out of the box and then tuning for personal pref from there.

I personally took a few turns of droop out of the front and stood up the shocks in the rear a bit to tune out some push exiting turns, but otherwise still running stock.
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Old 05-21-2014 | 09:06 AM
  #2814  
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my body is THINNER than a touring car body!!!
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Old 05-21-2014 | 09:44 AM
  #2815  
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I shoe goo and tape all my 8th scale off-road bodies.
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Old 05-21-2014 | 09:54 AM
  #2816  
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Quality of body seems like the one from my mini 8ight body. Or maybe that's even better than this ... Lol.
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Old 05-21-2014 | 01:00 PM
  #2817  
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I have a couple of cracks but otherwise is ok after 2 race days. I definitely need to tape and goo it to last, but using Velcro on the bottom forgoing the clips has helped a lot. That lets the body be supported from the bottom and has a little more give.
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Old 05-21-2014 | 07:45 PM
  #2818  
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I just bought a one race old ET48 from a friend of mine. Got a smoking deal on it RTR with 4- new 4s batteries. It has a 1700kv Tekin truggy motor on it with a Gen2 RX8. Has anyone else ran this motor? My other truggy which is a non Tekno I'm running a 1550kv motor on 5s and get 17 1/2 minutes run time. What kind of run time would I be looking at with the 1700kv? Just wondering in case I have to run with the nitros and might need to make a battery swap.
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Old 05-22-2014 | 05:30 PM
  #2819  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
I was able to make 20 on a 6500 SMC 4s with a 2000kv tekin combo with a 17t.

I'm going to change to a 16t and run 2x SMC 7200 2s and think I'll have plenty for a 20 and can take a practice lap an not hold back.
I used the 7200 x 2 in practice for 34min !! In the main I did 3 practice laps and the 20min easy. The next day they ran for another 4 minutes on the stand.
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Old 05-23-2014 | 08:09 PM
  #2820  
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looking for gearing tips
tekin 1350 kv gen 2 on 6s
medium length straight
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