38LikesTekno ET48 Thread
04-14-2014 | 12:43 AM
#2536
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
04-14-2014 | 01:28 AM
#2537
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
Built the truggy in a couple of evenings, and raced it today for the first time. All I can say is WOW. Great kit, handles like it's on rails with stock setup. Only thing I changed was use the recommendations from this forum, primarily 10/15/5 diff oils, and the 14mm rear diff case screws (instead of 10mm stock). I finished mid-pack one full lap off the pace (10 minute main, fast guys turning 30-31 second laps, I turned ~33-34 typical). Car feels very planted and stable, I have the 1900kv buggy motor turned way down (50% throttle travel on radio and 50% current limited on ESC) and there is still way too much power for my driving style.
Building the kit was a dream, everything fit well, high quality parts throughout. Followed all the build tips on this forum (thanks guys, very helpful).
Only complaint is the diff shims (on outside of diff bearings). I understand why they're there to fine-tune the ring/pinion gear mesh, but it's the only part of the kit that seems like an afterthought or like there could/should be a more elegant solution. Other than that little minor nit, everything else is completely easy to build, 10/10, well done Tekno.
Building the kit was a dream, everything fit well, high quality parts throughout. Followed all the build tips on this forum (thanks guys, very helpful).
Only complaint is the diff shims (on outside of diff bearings). I understand why they're there to fine-tune the ring/pinion gear mesh, but it's the only part of the kit that seems like an afterthought or like there could/should be a more elegant solution. Other than that little minor nit, everything else is completely easy to build, 10/10, well done Tekno.
Sorry, don't mean to pick on you or anything I just see a lot of wrong wiring jobs on Tekin motors. You should never have the wires come off the back of the motor, this puts stress on terminals and over time can crack the solder where the terminals are soldered to the circuit board inside the motor. Always come off the front of the motor. This info is strait from Tekin. I'll attach a couple of pictures of how I mean.
04-14-2014 | 04:21 AM
#2538
I've had to warranty 4 of the rear cases and the easiest way to tell is before you put your rear diff together, take a 10mm screw for the rear chassis brace and screw it into the rear diff about half way. If the diff case cracks ***(I'm saying actually CRACKS...I'm NOT talking about a white stress line, that is normal and is OK!)*** So if it cracks it is a bad case.
04-14-2014 | 05:25 AM
#2539
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,486
From: Greenville, SC
Sorry, don't mean to pick on you or anything I just see a lot of wrong wiring jobs on Tekin motors. You should never have the wires come off the back of the motor, this puts stress on terminals and over time can crack the solder where the terminals are soldered to the circuit board inside the motor. Always come off the front of the motor. This info is strait from Tekin. I'll attach a couple of pictures of how I mean.
04-14-2014 | 06:55 AM
#2540
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Also do you run your bolts loose like that in the front, or were you in the middle of a rebuild or something?
edit: never mind, now see you had removed your top plate and prob put the screws back to not lose them.
edit: never mind, now see you had removed your top plate and prob put the screws back to not lose them.
Last edited by Mizchief; 04-14-2014 at 07:09 AM.
04-14-2014 | 06:56 AM
#2541
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I've had to warranty 4 of the rear cases and the easiest way to tell is before you put your rear diff together, take a 10mm screw for the rear chassis brace and screw it into the rear diff about half way. If the diff case cracks ***(I'm saying actually CRACKS...I'm NOT talking about a white stress line, that is normal and is OK!)*** So if it cracks it is a bad case.
04-14-2014 | 07:04 AM
#2542
Sorry, don't mean to pick on you or anything I just see a lot of wrong wiring jobs on Tekin motors. You should never have the wires come off the back of the motor, this puts stress on terminals and over time can crack the solder where the terminals are soldered to the circuit board inside the motor. Always come off the front of the motor. This info is strait from Tekin. I'll attach a couple of pictures of how I mean.
04-14-2014 | 01:37 PM
#2543
Built the truggy in a couple of evenings, and raced it today for the first time. All I can say is WOW. Great kit, handles like it's on rails with stock setup. Only thing I changed was use the recommendations from this forum, primarily 10/15/5 diff oils, and the 14mm rear diff case screws (instead of 10mm stock). I finished mid-pack one full lap off the pace (10 minute main, fast guys turning 30-31 second laps, I turned ~33-34 typical). Car feels very planted and stable, I have the 1900kv buggy motor turned way down (50% throttle travel on radio and 50% current limited on ESC) and there is still way too much power for my driving style.
Building the kit was a dream, everything fit well, high quality parts throughout. Followed all the build tips on this forum (thanks guys, very helpful).
Only complaint is the diff shims (on outside of diff bearings). I understand why they're there to fine-tune the ring/pinion gear mesh, but it's the only part of the kit that seems like an afterthought or like there could/should be a more elegant solution. Other than that little minor nit, everything else is completely easy to build, 10/10, well done Tekno.
Building the kit was a dream, everything fit well, high quality parts throughout. Followed all the build tips on this forum (thanks guys, very helpful).
Only complaint is the diff shims (on outside of diff bearings). I understand why they're there to fine-tune the ring/pinion gear mesh, but it's the only part of the kit that seems like an afterthought or like there could/should be a more elegant solution. Other than that little minor nit, everything else is completely easy to build, 10/10, well done Tekno.
04-14-2014 | 02:55 PM
#2545
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
Your right they're castle 6.5 bullet connectors. They're a perfect fit soldered onto the posts on the ESC, the only thing you have to do on the male connectors is drill out the hole on the side so the wires will fit through. It works great for Quick motor changes without having connectors flopping all over the place.
04-14-2014 | 02:59 PM
#2546
summer is coming up and u might need downflow of air!
Your car is AMAZING by the way! Is it all titanium screws of just stainless?
either way its a work of art!
04-14-2014 | 03:12 PM
#2547
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
Thanks for the laugh, that's awesome! Don't get me wrong I'm sure that will work too.
04-14-2014 | 03:25 PM
#2548
I've had to warranty 4 of the rear cases and the easiest way to tell is before you put your rear diff together, take a 10mm screw for the rear chassis brace and screw it into the rear diff about half way. If the diff case cracks ***(I'm saying actually CRACKS...I'm NOT talking about a white stress line, that is normal and is OK!)*** So if it cracks it is a bad case.
04-14-2014 | 03:56 PM
#2549
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
Screws are stainless and aluminum. Stainless where strength is needed and aluminum where not needed. I haven't found a good priced titanium screw source yet. Aluminum is expensive enough! Here's a great source for stainless screws that are affordable and good. Albanycountryfasteners $15 or more is free shipping.
http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com...tric_s/693.htm
04-14-2014 | 04:05 PM
#2550
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
I had three; one off my et48, my eb48.2 and the spare I bought back when the truggy first batch came out and they all split. Great test. I sent them in for replacements. I installed my newly purchased ones from a batch tekno said was good so with any luck I avoided any issues on the track.. Thanks again.