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Old 07-01-2014, 06:22 AM
  #2251  
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Arrow I like the speed

Think the speed to me is now more important
Originally Posted by tlr224
total newbie to the 1/8 scale buggy world picked up a 8ight e buggy is a spektrum s6090 servo or s6100 servo better fit for it one is high torque one is higher speed? thanks for any input .
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:47 AM
  #2252  
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Originally Posted by patrick lsp
Dry loose slick outdoor setup. Stock setup not horrible but other than tires what changes does everyone like for these conditions?
Same here. The stock set up was fine but I had to wait on it to turn in and out.
I think I might be able to help you out. We have been pretty dusty this year. My guess is your probably pushing in and out of the turns? I am having great luck with AKA Ibeams (Med.), but if that is not enough run the high roll center in the front with no sway bar. That will help.... The 40g front ballast will add to that with battery forward. 2.5 rear sway will help to but I had to raise the rear roll center when I did that. I am running the rear hubs forward. I run 28mm ride height but try 27mm in the front and 29mm in the rear. Be sure the suspension is free.
I try a lot of things but this is a pretty good set up at our track, packed dusty, and pretty smooth.






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Old 07-01-2014, 11:25 AM
  #2253  
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Originally Posted by tlr224
total newbie to the 1/8 scale buggy world picked up a 8ight e buggy is a spektrum s6090 servo or s6100 servo better fit for it one is high torque one is higher speed? thanks for any input .
Ive been running the 6090 and I LOVE it... Its never failed me.
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:05 PM
  #2254  
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I don't know if this has been asked before, but what is the possibility of a dedicated 8ight T-E 3.0? I have a feeling there would be a small market, but I like the E specific designs between the nitro and E buggy models. If only this were applied to the truggy chassis then I'd think hard about buying one.

I really like the buggy class, but I cringe when I flip and scratch my pretty shock towers and caps. I've never owned a truggy before either, so I thought this would be a great platform to have in T-E form.
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:08 PM
  #2255  
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Originally Posted by RepEvox
I don't know if this has been asked before, but what is the possibility of a dedicated 8ight T-E 3.0? I have a feeling there would be a small market, but I like the E specific designs between the nitro and E buggy models. If only this were applied to the truggy chassis then I'd think hard about buying one.

I really like the buggy class, but I cringe when I flip and scratch my pretty shock towers and caps. I've never owned a truggy before either, so I thought this would be a great platform to have in T-E form.
The 8ight T 3.0 is a beast with the losi e conversion, and perfectly balance too. I have been whooping as with mine locally....
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:31 AM
  #2256  
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I have the 8ight-e 3.0 buggy and love driving it as a basher, but i'm thinking of building a truggy 8ight-e 3.0
Can someone tell me where I can get info, tread, model numbers of what I need to build a truggy 8ight-e 3.0
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:36 AM
  #2257  
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Here you go>
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...tro-Truggy-Kit
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...rdware-Package
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:48 PM
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Thinking about replacing my 2.0 with the new 3.0... I've been looking on the forum for an answer to my following question.

If i was to order the kit, what else would i need to order for the kit? Is there anything special that would make a big difference on the track?

If nothing, then sweet, but would like to know up front if i would need anything else.

Thanks in advance,
PW
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:57 AM
  #2259  
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What seems to be preferred as far as mounting of the ESC/ motor. I've seen a few with ESC and motor on same side and a few with battery and ESC on same side. Can someone enlighten me on this.
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by donbeatya
What seems to be preferred as far as mounting of the ESC/ motor. I've seen a few with ESC and motor on same side and a few with battery and ESC on same side. Can someone enlighten me on this.
In front of the battery is the most popular by far. And according to my scales the best place for it. I don't think I could squeeze my gen2 on the motor side any way.?
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Pdub66
Thinking about replacing my 2.0 with the new 3.0... I've been looking on the forum for an answer to my following question.

If i was to order the kit, what else would i need to order for the kit? Is there anything special that would make a big difference on the track?

If nothing, then sweet, but would like to know up front if i would need anything else.

Thanks in advance,
PW
For me 2 things were beneficial. Not that these are a must but the top saver arm is almost a must.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...40g-8IGHT-E-30
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ervo-Saver-Top
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:47 AM
  #2262  
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Default Steering Linkage - 3mm hardware

Hey Guys. I recently purchased a protek alunimum servo horn for my 8ight-e 3.0 with Hitec HS-7955TG servo. However, I later found out that the protek horn uses 3mm metric hardware but the TLR kit uses 4-40 x 1/12" threads in the steering link (0.1120"/2.8448mm diameter). Does anyone know of a compatible steering link which allows for 3mm hardware? I was thinking of just drilling out the rod ball ends/pivot balls of the default steering link to 3mm, but there wouldn't be a lot of material left after doing that.

What do you think? Perhaps I should just buy another brand of alu servo horn which uses 4-40 hardware? Note that I also purchased the losi alunimum servo horn (24T-Hitec/TLR 22) but the horn stripped when I tried installing it. I don't think it was a good fit...

Cheers
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:04 AM
  #2263  
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Originally Posted by captaingo
Hey Guys. I recently purchased a protek alunimum servo horn for my 8ight-e 3.0 with Hitec HS-7955TG servo. However, I later found out that the protek horn uses 3mm metric hardware but the TLR kit uses 4-40 x 1/12" threads in the steering link (0.1120"/2.8448mm diameter). Does anyone know of a compatible steering link which allows for 3mm hardware? I was thinking of just drilling out the rod ball ends/pivot balls of the default steering link to 3mm, but there wouldn't be a lot of material left after doing that.

What do you think? Perhaps I should just buy another brand of alu servo horn which uses 4-40 hardware? Note that I also purchased the losi alunimum servo horn (24T-Hitec/TLR 22) but the horn stripped when I tried installing it. I don't think it was a good fit...

Cheers
You may can take the pivot-ball out of the rod-end and drill it out to 3mm
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:55 PM
  #2264  
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Default Chassis dementioms

Can some let me know what the width of the chassis is! Thanks... Or could u measure the width of one of ur body's thanks
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:08 PM
  #2265  
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Originally Posted by captaingo
Hey Guys. I recently purchased a protek alunimum servo horn for my 8ight-e 3.0 with Hitec HS-7955TG servo. However, I later found out that the protek horn uses 3mm metric hardware but the TLR kit uses 4-40 x 1/12" threads in the steering link (0.1120"/2.8448mm diameter). Does anyone know of a compatible steering link which allows for 3mm hardware? I was thinking of just drilling out the rod ball ends/pivot balls of the default steering link to 3mm, but there wouldn't be a lot of material left after doing that.

What do you think? Perhaps I should just buy another brand of alu servo horn which uses 4-40 hardware? Note that I also purchased the losi alunimum servo horn (24T-Hitec/TLR 22) but the horn stripped when I tried installing it. I don't think it was a good fit...

Cheers
Simplest solution: Drill out the servo horn for clearance on a 4-40 screw and use a nut on the screw instead of screwing it into the servo horn. I'd want a nut on that screw anyway rather than just screwing into the servo horn threads and hoping it would stay.

Another solution: get Traxxas or Dubro rod ends that take 3MM screws and use that on one end of the steering link to the servo saver..
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