smash8ight

iTrader: (8)

is anyone running soft pack lipos?can????can not?????

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

I already have the Nitro converted... I just now might sell it for the E car.

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

I think a little of both but mainly unthreading itself. I am using droop screws, maybe less droop is the answer? Car drove awesome though

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I am not sure how it would unthread itself as the plastic acts like a thread lock and I don't know how you could get a force on the shock shaft to unthread it. Odds are they are pulling out but if you are using the droop screws it not sure how you get enough force to pull the ends out. I will ask around and see if this is a known problem.

McGuire

iTrader: (2)

I have seen that in some impacts (very, very rough) they can expand or depress. I personally have been running my car 3x a week for the last 3 months and haven't experienced it.

But I have once witnessed a 3.0 go nearly straight into a wall with the wheels turned to the right. He did have a couple extra degrees of negative camber for the left front but nothing was broken.

He simply reset his camber and didn't have the problem again to my knowledge.

Salkin

I'm running both soft pack and hard packs.

Soft packs are more prone to cell puncture than hard packs.

You often can only race with hard packs.

At my club soft packs are not even allowed. I bought a 1 mm pvc plate and cut out sides and ends for my soft packs and wrapped it with duct tape. They are now a lot thougher than normal hardpacks and adds some 75g to the weight.

Probably not all tracks will allow to run "modified" soft packs, and many tracks only allows ROAR approved packs.

I know many other that are using soft packs in their 1/10 and 1/8 buggies and never had an issue.

Just be aware of tear and wear, beacuse the soft case will wear from the battery holder, straps etc.

Before I converted my soft packs to hard packs, I had them wrapped in good quality duct tape that could take all the tear and wear, and that was actually a good solution.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Is the rod end problem only on one shock. Sometimes there may be a slight issue with the treads on the shock shaft being underformed and do not bite in the plastic properly so I would try a new shock shaft it is one shaft that is having an issue.

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

It is one front and one rear. I'm gunna pull it all apart here soon. Random but what is the part number on the upgraded TLR spur? Thanks for any info. Can't wait to get back out on the track!

Salkin

Need a tip on setup.

I'm driving my 8ight-E 3.0 on this track during winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6ewHXRRc10

The track is primarily carpet, some sections with plywood, stone tiles, vinyl.

Tire additives are used. Traction is very high.

My car is completely set up as in the assembly manual.

The car is fitted with a Hobbywing esc/motor (150a/2200kv).

Cannot copy setup directly from other drivers, as I am the only one driving a Losi. The others primarily drives Mugens and Kyoshos.

The track is mostly with very fast sprints, stop and sprint again. Cornering at low speed to prevent the car from flipping over due to the high traction. Few jumps.

It seems that the setup used by the most drivers involved a very low ride hight (approx. 23-26mm) and thick shock oil (50-60 wt). Don't know about springs and other.

Should I test a setup in the same manner; low ride height and thick shock oil/hard springs?

When I look at any TLR setup sheet, there are no setups on any track with a ride hight lower than 27mm and shock oil higher than 40wt.

I'm actually using a 23mm ride height (very low but doesn't bottom out) and -1 camber. 45/45 shock oil.

I'm thinking on reducing droop (currently stock setup). Have been reading that this is good for smooth tracks plus it wil reduce weight transfer making the car more "flat".

Are there any "obvious" setup changes that I need to make? Diff oils, camber etc.?

I'm not a pro driver, and I know that practice, practice, practice is the way to go, but a good general setup never hurts.

Any tips or general guidelines is much appreciated.

drepus

Salkin, you are heading in the right direction with your changes.
Lowering the ride height helps with tipping in the corners. I have run an 1/8 down to 15mm ride height but that is dependant on the shape and size of the jumps. Your track has relatively small jumps so try lowerring it a couple of mm's at a time.
Stiffer oil and springs will help keep the car from pitching front/back and side to side but watch the oil doesnt get too thick as it will also slow down the steering reactions of the car. I usually only run 10wt harder all around for a starting carpet setup.
Stiffer sway bars will help control chassis lean a bunch mid corner. Definately try a 2.7mm front and 2.5mm rear.
One of the most powerfull settings on carpet for my 8ight 2.0 was limiting droop with the set screws in the arms. It will allow much higher corner speeds without feeling tippy but you need to be carefull to leave enough droop to cope with the jump landings. The starting droop for offroad use was 96mm front and 103.5 rear. Drop the front to 93mm and the rear to 100 as a start. Keep limiting the front and rear 1mm at a time until landings start to suffer too much then go back a bit.
There is no setup that will keep an 1/8 from tiping in the corners if there is enough grip but there are changes that can greatly help!

Salkin

Dave, thanks, much appreciated.

drepus

Glad to help!
I have run an 1/8 on carpet quite a bit. Try some things and then tell us how it went and what setup you ended up with. I am sure we can get you hooked up!

Got-R/C?

iTrader: (1)

How are you guys mounting your receiver? Do most keep it in the radio box on it's side or do most remove the box and just mount it flat on the chassis? Also, do you run your antenna inside the body or outside?

Looks like I'll have to order another servo arm. The one that I order from TLR labeled for Hitec must be a 24 size and looks like I need a 25T size maybe?

Otherwise, build went smooth with no problems. Been about 18-years since I've built one and it took me a little over 5-hours taking my time..

drepus

If you run on dusty/muddy/wet tracks you could mount the rx in the box. If your track doesn't get your car too dirty just stick the rx on the side of the small servo mount.
I run my antenna in a tube cut to stay inside the body below the roof line. I bend the tube slightly inward.
The newest hitec servos are now using a 25t spline which differs from the 24t they have used for years. They are the 83xxth series servos.

akshayp14

this has happened to me as well casper