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Old 02-05-2014 | 03:46 PM
  #1351  
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Default Great info

The replies on the shock pistons are fantastic
I've cut and pasted for future reference along with other
Great bits
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Old 02-06-2014 | 09:38 AM
  #1352  
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Here are some of my Front Suspension tech notes - Losi has taken a huge step towards making their vehicles much stiffer and responsive. Which in returns addresses the sloppiness the 2.0 had.

Great job Losi

Enjoy:

3.0 8e
losa6286 - Front diff case screws 5-40x5/8"
losa6282 - Inner camber link screw 5-40x7/8"
losa2680 - Outter camber link screw 5-40x1"
tlr242000 - Front Gear Box Set (Stiffer meterial) - (losa4427 same case mold (Regular meterial)
tlr244000 - Front Suspension Arm (Thicker meterial) - (losa1703 same mold (Thinner meterial)
tlr244014 - Front Aluminum Front Shock Tower 3rd lower shock hole - lower top camber triangle hole
losa1714 - Front 2.0 shock tower 3 hole tower mount and 3 hole vertical camber mount will work with either buggy - thinner meterial
--

3.0 8n
losa6278 - Front diff case screws 5-40x1/2"
losa6279 - Inner camber link screw 5-40x3/4"
losa6281 - Outter camber link screw 5-40x20mm
tlr242000 - Front Gear Box Set (Stiffer meterial) - (losa4427 same case mold (Regular meterial)
tlr244000 - Front Suspension Arm (Thicker meterial) - (losa1703 same mold (Thinner meterial)
tlr244002 - Front Aluminum Front Shock Tower 2 hole - higher top camber triangle hole
losa1714 - Front 2.0 shock tower 3 hole tower mount and 3 hole vertical camber mount will work with either buggy - thinner meterial
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Old 02-07-2014 | 06:15 PM
  #1353  
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Originally Posted by vic0280
just finished building mine and getting ready to wire it up.

front end is not free. I know it is the camber links. I thought I read on here to squeeze with a pair of pliers and it frees up.

sounds stupid, but I squeezed them and not freeing up. can someone post a pic of how they do this or do I need to just do with a lot more pressure?
In can't submit URL's yet but youtube this:

Adam Drake from TLR talks about the 5mm captured end for the 8ight T 3.0

Adam Drake demonstration on a truggy, it works for sure man mine front and back is way better after this easy step.
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Old 02-08-2014 | 02:36 AM
  #1354  
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Questions??

Did Someone try the new tapered Pistons TLR 243029 (2x 8-hole 1.3mm, 2x 8hole 1.2/1.3mm) or TLR 243030 (2x 5hole 1.4mm, 2x 5hole 1.5mm) already?
I got them and want to build my Kit these days and dont know which Pistons i should try first for a normal bumpy european outdoor track...?!




.
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Old 02-08-2014 | 07:31 AM
  #1355  
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Originally Posted by F3ckLand
In can't submit URL's yet but youtube this:

Adam Drake from TLR talks about the 5mm captured end for the 8ight T 3.0

Adam Drake demonstration on a truggy, it works for sure man mine front and back is way better after this easy step.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_jV_175FxYY
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Old 02-08-2014 | 08:46 AM
  #1356  
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What's the swaybar kit that has a 2.0 front?

How about a 3.0 rear?

Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2014 | 07:10 PM
  #1357  
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Default body options for 3.0 convertion

looking at picking a nitro up and converting it,what are the options for bodys?
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Old 02-08-2014 | 11:07 PM
  #1358  
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Originally Posted by McGuire
What's the swaybar kit that has a 2.0 front?

How about a 3.0 rear?

Thanks!
Brandon I think this has the 3.0 rear bar. LOSA1750
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Old 02-09-2014 | 12:06 AM
  #1359  
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Originally Posted by TimMo846
I just found one on Ebay actually...... but it's for the nitro. Was about to post and ask if there was any chassis width difference or not?
will not fit 3.0 e i have both and body is way too wide for 3.0 e
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Old 02-09-2014 | 04:59 AM
  #1360  
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Originally Posted by Tarimon
Did Someone try the new tapered Pistons TLR 243029 (2x 8-hole 1.3mm, 2x 8hole 1.2/1.3mm) or TLR 243030 (2x 5hole 1.4mm, 2x 5hole 1.5mm) already?
I got them and want to build my Kit these days and dont know which Pistons i should try first for a normal bumpy european outdoor track...?!

BTW, how should I install these pistons? Tapered side up or down...?


.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 08:03 AM
  #1361  
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How are y'all getting the front inner hinge pins to be free in the arms? Mine are super tight. Tried reaming but gave up. I noticed that the hinge pins are free until the droop screw is installed in the arm. Then it is very bound up.
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Old 02-09-2014 | 08:43 AM
  #1362  
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Originally Posted by kcobra
How are y'all getting the front inner hinge pins to be free in the arms? Mine are super tight. Tried reaming but gave up. I noticed that the hinge pins are free until the droop screw is installed in the arm. Then it is very bound up.
Did you try reaming them with the droop screw in the arm?
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Old 02-09-2014 | 10:17 AM
  #1363  
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Default Front Grip / Rear Power

Since I switched to the SPC 'shorty' packs a few weeks back, I've been on a quest to reduce rear traction and/or increase front grip for on-power and off-power steering.

Removing the six ounces of weight from the full sized battery packs dramatically changed the weight transfer and has led to all sorts of rear power overkill - tons of wheelspin, front end liftoff during acceleration, etc.

Since I'm "re-learning" how to drive after a 15 year absence, I am in no real hurry and always take notes on the various setup sheets from Losi and Viper as I try out new settings.

Here's a few of the things I'm trying:
  1. Viper VTX8 - Jacked up the PWM frequency to 24k. Reduced the punch to 75%. Forward Power at 90%, essentially turning my VF8 2100 into a 1900 motor. All three are definitely helping keep the front end on the ground, as well as generally smoothing things out. Tried using the -2 expo setting. Hated it.
  2. Diffs - Changed to rear diff to 3000, making my setup 5/5/3. Should take some of the power away from the rear, plus help the buggy rotate in corners for better/quicker steering.
  3. New Parts - Just ordered the TLR341000 Brass Weight System - which will put 1.5 ounces of brass down low in the front of the chassis, plus the TLR3510 Front Overdrive Gear Set, which is supposed to provide "smoother off-power steering and increased on-power steering."

We have a few weeks off due to the Carpet Nationals being at our track the next few weeks, so I should have everything ready to go by the time racing resumes.

Now if only I could buy some driving skills from A Main Hobbies! What TLR part number would that be?

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
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Old 02-09-2014 | 10:44 AM
  #1364  
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Originally Posted by dynamiteracer
Brandon I think this has the 3.0 rear bar. LOSA1750
Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2014 | 01:29 PM
  #1365  
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Originally Posted by Tarimon
BTW, how should I install these pistons? Tapered side up or down...?
.
Taper down on a bumpy track. On a very smooth track with small jumps taper up.
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