BoostCreep

iTrader: (4)

Foghat, did you figure your shocks out yet?

If you continue to get air bubbles perhaps you're going too high with the piston when moving it up and reintroducing the bubbles to the oil.

I just did mine last week and I consider myself to be a novice in the shock department. That being said it sounds like you are not bleeding the fluid properly.

Per the instructions;

Once you've gotten rid of the air bubbles fill the shock, with the piston down, to almost full.

Put the bladder on the shock, bulge side down, and let it push out the extra oil. Then screw the cap on until you feel some resistance. (that didn't work for me. I put the bladder into the shock cap and screwed it on until fluid just started coming out the weep hole of the cap)

Slowly push up the piston allowing the excess fluid to bleed out of the weep hole. Once the piston is up and the fluid has stopped bleeding from the shock, tighten the shock cap fully.

Doing it that way they are almost totally neutral (no self movement) when pushed in or pulled out.

Good luck.

BoostCreep

iTrader: (4)

So due to IMO a lack of pictures in this thread I'm going to post a couple of my almost completed 8ight E 3.0.

Just painted the body today. First one I've done in 30+ years so it could definitely be better. It's wearing my shelfer wheels currently as the tires for it are not here yet.



I was debating stickers but after looking at it for a while it needs something to break up the black expanse on the body skirts.



It's riding a little high as it currently has no electronics installed. Everything needed is in the mail so it looks like it'll be a runner next week. Getting very excited to drive this one.

Here it is with its 8ight 2.0 Tekno sibling.



So I noticed there are a few guys building these right now. Anyone else have pictures?

foghat

Thanks.

I think I might have figured it out, just trying it now. Seems I did not install the black o-ring that goes around the bottom of the shock assembly correctly. Instead of placing it over the threads at the bottom of the assembly, I placed it inside the black cup that screws to the assembly.

I do have one question for you, do you remember if the translucent rubber o-rings that are part of the assembly (you use 2 for each shock) were acutally 'o-ringed' shape? The picture/drawing in the manual makes them look rounded like o-rings, but mine were more concave

While they are a pliable rubber like an o-ring, my 'o-rings' actually look like the bushings here:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...13/p251272?r=0

Instead of the o-rings here:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...losa5429/p7812

And the bushings (the hard piece that fits between the two o-rings) I received had a regular 'flat' edge instead of the concave edge as per the diagram in the manual and the first link above.

Not sure if I have the right parts or not.

EDIT: I am still able to introduce air bubbles after the initial purge. Really not certain if I have the right o-rings and bushings.

BoostCreep

iTrader: (4)

From what I've seen there were 2 square edged o-rings, a Teflon ring in between, and a Teflon compression ring held in by the lower shock retainer.

I saw your other thread after I responded in this one and the picture looked just like what I had.

Question. Did you put the Teflon ring in between the 2 o-rings? I would assume you did but sometimes it's the simple things that catch us off guard.

For example when I built my shocks I accidentally used the washer that goes behind the shock retainer nut under the shock piston instead of the shim that goes there. I had to disassemble both front shocks and swap the part out for the correct part, then refill and re-bleed both shocks. Oops.

foghat

Yes I have the teflon bushing between the two o-rings. Good to know I have the same parts as you.

I ordered the replacement o-rings out of curiosity (as the diagram in the manual has them looking more rounded) - they were cheap enough. The shock guide and bushing kit is a little pricier though.

I am currently trying a different method to fill/purge will see how that goes.

Curious, after you did the initial purge, did compress and expand the piston (without the bladder) again a few times to see if you could introduce more air bubbles?

foghat

That is a pretty solid paint job. Nice work! Mine is going to be all white. Simple. All my vehicles are white. I love white!

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...243024/p275026

Make sure you use these o-rings. Losi made a running change at some point on the 3.0 to these o-rings and they use them on 4.0 line as well.

foghat

Ahhh. x-ring would probably be a good descriptor of the way my o-rings looks. Thanks for the clarification - I guess they just didn't update the diagram or part number in the 3.0 manual, which is understandable.

superjoe5000

Solid paint bro.

Keep em coming you lazy slobs

Kaputttroniker

Thereīs no way to fit the original tray right in the middle. No matter how you turn it, thereīs always something in the way. But I found a different battery tray from horizon on ebay and also got the original tray, chassisplate... Iīll try to fit in the new tray and if itīs not working I go back to the standard setting.

Drills and screws are all in the metric system here, so Iīll just use the screws I can find. Even the big stores hardly have any tools from the States.

I donīt know why it is so hard to drill through the chassis. My father in law, whoīs professionally working with metal, came over and broke two drills, I broke one while trying it.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

I posted this earlier with no responses. At least tell me if there is another forum or thread this needs to go to and I will post it there.

Can someone help me to see if my thinking and/or math is correct.

I have a recently purchased 3.0 with a Castle Mamba 2 and Neu 2200KV. I took it to the track Sunday and really had a great time. It was my first time racing in 15 years. I have been into planes during that time.

I have a lot of 6S batteries from my planes and only had 2 4S 4500mah to run in the buggy. I want to use my 6S batteries. In doing so, I want to keep the same amount of power with less amps. It should be the same principle as my planes....ie....if I go from 4S to 6S and to a smaller prop, I end up with the same amout of power with less amp draw which is less heat and more efficient.
This is a measureable amount and not theory.

Here are the numbers and I am not positive about everything.1.The stock system is 2200KV x 14.8V = 32,560rpms (no load)
2.My pinion and gear is 15/43 x 3.3 (drive ratio) = 9.46 (Final drive ratio)
3.32,560 / 9.46 = 3,441 (rpm's for 1 revolution of wheel)

So if I can find a 6S system close to 3,441....it should be the same amount of power / watts.
1.2200KV x 22.2V = 48,840
2.Pinion Spur is 11/45 for a final drive of 13.487
3.48,840 / 13.487 = 3618 (a 10 tooth pinion is 3288)

I realize this is all no load and perfect conditions, but if I do change to 6S and put a wattmeter on it, I should be close to what I had on 4S.......am I close?

foghat

^ I would think either starting a new post in this sub-forum or in the Radio and Electronics sub-forum would get more eyeballs on the question.

pat dillon

iTrader: (12)

just get a tekin 1900 motor and some 4s lipo and your done.

Cabledawg

iTrader: (1)

So your advice is to replace a perfectly good new motor with another new motor for no good apparent reason. Let me run that idea by my 3 year old.....he said no.

BoostCreep

iTrader: (4)

Go to an 11 tooth pinion on a 45 tooth spur gear. That will get you close from an rpm point of view. You'll still have an absurd difference in power, ie acceleration, due to the higher voltage but terminal velocity will be similar.