losialltheway1

iTrader: (17)

Why would I be kidding? Max amps are the best. In my opinion. I've used them in my 4x4 and in my e-buggy and haven't had any problems and they come with a pretty good warranty. I have never used those nano techs, but from the reviews on hobby king, they look like you get what you pay for.

oldnfat

iTrader: (9)

I respect your opinion.
I should have known better....enjoy your max amps.

skyler hays

iTrader: (12)

I have been running turnigy and nano techs for ever with zero problems. I did recently buy a SMC one too. I run all nano techs in my 4wd SC and its rough on those 2s packs

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

You mean the drivers right, because that's not "always" true every car is good in different ways... I can tell since I switch to Kyosho my driving saw no improvement, only you can make yourself faster!

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Good to know my other option if I can make them fit would be to use 2 2s 7200 Orion's I have that have never been used. What do you think? I like the idea of having a couple of dedicated 4s packs over running 2 2s packs in parallel.

jmcelroy42

iTrader: (10)

6500 4S, says in stock on SMC site now!

oldnfat

iTrader: (9)

I was limited by the stock battery tray in my rc8be and rc8te. So these were the only reasonably priced 4s that fit without mods.
When I switched to the 8ight e 3.0 I just kept using them and still do. Have worked great in truggy (2200kv), old buggy (2650kv) and new 3.0 (1900kv).
Just ordered 4 more from the USA warehouses for 188 shipped.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Is anyone running the overdrive gear in their buggies?? What the purpose of the gear?

Austin's dad

Withhold judgement on the (pretty good warranty) until you make a warranty claim. Please

DesJardins

iTrader: (4)

I've used TP, MaxAmps, Nano, Orion, Dynamite & others in everything from ground to flight RC & that's an option based debate that nobody wins.

Anyways... This has been a decent thread with some helpful info

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Ordered two of them, kind of overkill for the tracks I run on, but if they last a reasonable amount of time before they puff I will be happy.

drinkslinger55

Hey guys I just finished building my kit. I have built probably 20 1/10 scale kits in my time but this is my first 1/8. Anyway I am having some issues with my center diff and rear diff. The front diff was built first and works smoothly. The center and rear seems to have a portion of it that gets real notchy feeling if that makes sense. They both spin smooth about 3/4 and have about 1/4 of the turn that doesn't feel right to me. Any ideas? I am thinking this is not something that will wear in so I haven't run it yet. I didn't notice it with just the diff but noticed it when I put the diff in the case with the pinion.

clarkie_ni

pull the centre diff apart and start again checking that the spider and planetary gears are ok, ie no teeth chipped, missing etc.
rebuild ensuring it spins great before putting the spur gear back on and check the actual spur gear has no chipping/missing teeth.
the centre diff should be the smoothest out of all them as it dosnt require shimming.

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

I know you don't need shims for the center, but doesn't the kit come with shims for it, so it doesn't slide forward and back?

drinkslinger55

Well I took it apart again. It was the rear diff. I had the diff shimmed like the manual said but I had to swap sides with the small shim. It is much smoother and doesn't have the notchy feel anymore. My question is how do you know what is the correct shimming? Is it just a feel thing?