Barge

The box setup is arms and hubs forward. So moving either back will extend the wheelbase. Obviously moving both all the way back will extend it the most.

I forgot above when I mentioned I was running the box setup mostly that I had gone with mid/mid for the rear hubs and arms during the build because I didn't like how much my squared always seemed to push. I think this might be why my rear end is a bit squirrely. I'm going to try moving the hubs forward first and see how it improves then try both forward if necessary.

I think going mid/mid just took a bit too much weight off the rear. Kind of wondering if moving the weight with hub/arm adjustments will require a slight change in rear spring stiffness.

samuelsonmark71

iTrader: (22)

Both, it just depends on the feel you are looking for

Barge

Mark,

Do you feel there's any difference in moving the hubs versus moving the arms?

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

Haven't driven a cubed, but moving the arms is a much larger wheelbase change than moving hubs. All depends on what you're looking for. If the car handles well, but you're looking for a little more coming out of corners, then start with the hubs (small change).

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

FYI, my cubed at Amain just went off back order.

Barge

I was planning on starting with the hubs but why do you say the arms are a larger change?

Is it because the toe angle has a magnifying aspect on the adjustment at the arm?

There is a larger range of adjustment possible at the hubs I think.... from a pure shim standpoint.

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

Maxzilla duo 3.5 17.5 with torque rotor. Im currently running 69/36 on a large fairly open layout. Its pretty damn fast im thinking of trying a 66 spur to see how she pulls with that. Any ideas? It deff likes a small spur

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

I would definitely go to a 66 if you're already running that big of a pinion.

My Fantom 17.5's really 66/33 in the buggy.

samuelsonmark71

iTrader: (22)

I have no idea. Only run mod personally

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

Awesome thats pretty close to what i was thinking. How much timing are you running? Anyone want to share some ideas on elimnating a mid corner push? Notable items: im only running 1* antisquat with a 1mm shim in front and none out back. 2mm on inner camberlinks front and rear middle hole in the rear with c hubs. Personally im thinking of going to the 2mm front antisquat shim and reshimming the rear to go back to 1* deg but with a higher roll center.

samuelsonmark71

iTrader: (22)

I personally only run forward on both. Is prolly
Move hubs first tho

masher81

iTrader: (16)

And now Amains site is down... coincidence? I think not!

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

I just noticed that too!

Barge

Holy cow... 33/66.

I run 32/72 with my Novak 17.5

My track is a tight small indoor track though.

On another note, I had to change from a 69 to 72 because the motor wouldn't go back far enough with the 29 pinion I was going to run.

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

In the case for stock type motors, the more torque the motor makes, the happier it's going to be running the lower ratio gearing. Unfortunately this means the motors powerband is lower in the RPM range and a smaller window to get the gearing right, or else you'll over-spin the motor and it will just overheat at that point.

From what I've seen, Trinity's do well with low gearing. I know the Ballistic and the Vulcan are happier geared higher with the 70+ spurs.

I've ran 75, 72, 69, and 66 on my 17.5 motors and almost never changed pinions. It's either a 32 or 33 when I run 17.5.