TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
#8972
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Interesting. Glad you reposted about it.
And compared to all the other SCT's I have play with, the SCTE 2.0 is definitely light on its toes. This is very good for mid to high bite, but it will struggle on some rougher loose stuff compared to say a Tekno. Sorta track depending in my opinion between the two.
And compared to all the other SCT's I have play with, the SCTE 2.0 is definitely light on its toes. This is very good for mid to high bite, but it will struggle on some rougher loose stuff compared to say a Tekno. Sorta track depending in my opinion between the two.
#8973
Curious to see A. Mazzara's setup from Motorama (doubt I will though). Wondering if he was running the new shocks/dogbones/castor blocks?
#8974
Last night was my first race with my 2.0. I am running the pro 4 HD 4300 with rx8 Gen 2. Pinion 12 and spur 40 using 5200 50c lipo. Track is huge with large triples. I could barely double some of them.
Through out the race I notice some short course guys were just tearing through the track and leading by 4 seconds or more. They ended taking the series and because of this I wanted to know what their secret was.
After talking and looking over their car(one tekno, one 2.0) they both had 4700 dynamite motors with the same esc as me. 13 pinion 40 spure with the max amps 8000mah, 150c battery.
With only a one tooth difference and a huge battery, is it realistic to have more capability like I witnessed last night?
Through out the race I notice some short course guys were just tearing through the track and leading by 4 seconds or more. They ended taking the series and because of this I wanted to know what their secret was.
After talking and looking over their car(one tekno, one 2.0) they both had 4700 dynamite motors with the same esc as me. 13 pinion 40 spure with the max amps 8000mah, 150c battery.
With only a one tooth difference and a huge battery, is it realistic to have more capability like I witnessed last night?
Most run 15-16T with the 4300HD, 50%-60% punch and No to little timing.
#8975
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
It is very strange to hear how you guys are running such large KV motors with such short gears to boot... I have ran the 4700KV hobby wing motor, and not once have I ever needed to run less than a 15t pinion on 40 spur. Often I will run a 16 pinion. I can't imagine needing more torque that I already have with that combo.
#8978
Thanks man. I might start trying some different things I guess. Good run btw.
#8979
Can anyone recommend a setup for a dusty, low bite outdoor track? I'm having issues with understeer in the sharp turns. It's manageable in the wider turns, but wants to push after the apex in hairpins. I almost have to let off completely to stay in the groove. Everyone else at the track runs Teknos, so I'm pretty much in the dark with suspension tuning. At first I thought it was my driving habits, but I raced on a high bite indoor track for the first time a few weeks ago and this thing handled like it was on rails.
My current setup is stock shocks and springs mounted in the center of the control arms and towers all the way around, 32.5F/27.5R, 5-5-3 diffs, 2*camber F/R, 2* toe F/R, long Ackerman, silver front sway bar, super soft Blockades (all the Tekno guys use Cityblock 2s), Savox 1256, 4300HD 14/40. I'm still new at this (just got bumped up from rookie to 4wd SC at the end of last season) so any help would be greatly appreciated.
My current setup is stock shocks and springs mounted in the center of the control arms and towers all the way around, 32.5F/27.5R, 5-5-3 diffs, 2*camber F/R, 2* toe F/R, long Ackerman, silver front sway bar, super soft Blockades (all the Tekno guys use Cityblock 2s), Savox 1256, 4300HD 14/40. I'm still new at this (just got bumped up from rookie to 4wd SC at the end of last season) so any help would be greatly appreciated.
#8980
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Can anyone recommend a setup for a dusty, low bite outdoor track? I'm having issues with understeer in the sharp turns. It's manageable in the wider turns, but wants to push after the apex in hairpins. I almost have to let off completely to stay in the groove. Everyone else at the track runs Teknos, so I'm pretty much in the dark with suspension tuning. At first I thought it was my driving habits, but I raced on a high bite indoor track for the first time a few weeks ago and this thing handled like it was on rails.
My current setup is stock shocks and springs mounted in the center of the control arms and towers all the way around, 32.5F/27.5R, 5-5-3 diffs, 2*camber F/R, 2* toe F/R, long Ackerman, silver front sway bar, super soft Blockades (all the Tekno guys use Cityblock 2s), Savox 1256, 4300HD 14/40. I'm still new at this (just got bumped up from rookie to 4wd SC at the end of last season) so any help would be greatly appreciated.
My current setup is stock shocks and springs mounted in the center of the control arms and towers all the way around, 32.5F/27.5R, 5-5-3 diffs, 2*camber F/R, 2* toe F/R, long Ackerman, silver front sway bar, super soft Blockades (all the Tekno guys use Cityblock 2s), Savox 1256, 4300HD 14/40. I'm still new at this (just got bumped up from rookie to 4wd SC at the end of last season) so any help would be greatly appreciated.
The setup in loam with the SCTE is a bear compared to the tekno. But your right, on the clay stuff the SCTE is hard to mess with.
You should consider taking out a degree of rear tow to increase your effective slip angle some for less push over all around a turn.
Just remember your going to decrease your straight line stability some when you do it.
You can also help things out by adjusting your roll centers.
Higher on the tower using the upper holes prevent aggressive roll while the lower holes promote it. Roll can be your friend when it comes to losing side bite into a turn. You can tweak it some with the sway bars. Alternately many will use a lighter front or even take it off all together to promote more front lean while a turn, which also promotes more side bite.
Shorter links increases steering and decreases stability into corner. With slight on power gain
(Twitchy)
Longer link will increase stability and make the truck less responsive. (Easier to drive)
That being known, you can try to shorten the links on the nose a bit as a starting point. You can also stand the rear shocks up a bit more if your getting to much side bite from the rear. Antisquat will also effect this on power.
Being that the SCTE is considerably lighter than the Tekno, it also likes to ride on top of things while the other truck will dig down in the rough.
I have both trucks and the Tekno is much more packish, and has much less shock resonance than the 2.0 has. This truck was designed for the smooth stuff and that is where is excels.
#8981
Tech Initiate
scte upgrades
I see, chassis, f/r center braces and servo changes
#8983
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Very lean and mean looking setup right there^
Really digging that balanced out diff drive line positioning.
Felt this was a necessary addition from the start once I seen the king headz alternative.
I am however very curious as to what is the exact reasoning behind reversing that servo and bellcrank throw?
I know space is minimal, but wouldn't redesigning a better pan/servo mount lay out allow for a much improved servo mounting solution?
Letting it lay down low like they used to do would surely have to be a noticeable improvement in CG, if the weigh minor weight reduction from the stock shocks vs the 22 shocks that are so highly regarded for this said attribute.
So why in the world do you guys "speaking for the two top contenders" stand a heavy arse servo straight up in the worst possible way that further conflicts with arm to rod clearance? The fact the drag link had a binding issue was proof it needed help.
Just a guess of course but is this the factor behind why this truck is running a reversed bell crank?
Really digging that balanced out diff drive line positioning.
Felt this was a necessary addition from the start once I seen the king headz alternative.
I am however very curious as to what is the exact reasoning behind reversing that servo and bellcrank throw?
I know space is minimal, but wouldn't redesigning a better pan/servo mount lay out allow for a much improved servo mounting solution?
Letting it lay down low like they used to do would surely have to be a noticeable improvement in CG, if the weigh minor weight reduction from the stock shocks vs the 22 shocks that are so highly regarded for this said attribute.
So why in the world do you guys "speaking for the two top contenders" stand a heavy arse servo straight up in the worst possible way that further conflicts with arm to rod clearance? The fact the drag link had a binding issue was proof it needed help.
Just a guess of course but is this the factor behind why this truck is running a reversed bell crank?