JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

how much did that set you back? can you pm me?

AverageNoob

iTrader: (41)

Amen

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

What is the general consensus on the Tekno driveshafts and lightened outdrives? Are they worth $43 over the stock pieces?

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

I have used them for a while. I think they are better than stock on the front. They allow tighter turning without binding much. Seem to last longer than stock. I did break the inside lip within the inner bearing on one. Must have been hit just right to do that. Replaced free of charge so warranty is good.

Not so good for the rear. The out drives bind on the aluminum diff inserts. You can fix that with a dremel. Bad part is they bind the bearings in the rear hub. Seem to be off 1 or 2 mm. Allows the hex to pinch the bearings when you tighten the wheel. Another member had a fix I used for a couple of races. I used shims with the inner race from a bad bearing that lock the axle to the outer bearing. This works but it puts more stress on the outer bearing. If the bearing fails the bearing will spin in the hub melting the plastic hub or seizing in a metal hub.

If your stock parts are used up this is a good option. You can purchase the out drives, bones and stub axle kit for $35 on ebay at times. I like them on the front. I made the mods to use them on the rear but then swapped back to stock 2.0 parts.

Are they worth the extra money? I can't say for sure because of the issues I have had. I plan to use them on the front until they are wore out. Maybe others can weigh in on their experience.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

I forgot to add that the Tekno center drive shafts are holding up great. I use the MIP Pucks on my Pro8 and they are ok. The front seems to be a high wearing system no matter what you do.

TLRCREW

iTrader: (19)

My front pucks ware out quickly as well. I posted on MIP and they said to use some silicone spray and rotating pucks to prolong life. I like the Pucks because I was able to turn down punch on ESC and still have same power with stock drive shafts and punch turned up. This also allows motor and ESC and Lipo to run cooler and more efficient in my opinion.

MD

iTrader: (136)

I have a question. In the front arms there are flanged tubes that screws go through into the bottom of the c-hubs. The only part number I can find also includes the arms. Is there any way to get the tubes without the arms or are there any other brands that will work? Thanks for the help.

potatobed409

iTrader: (1)

Not that I'm aware of. They come with new arms or new caster blocks, can't remember which one though. The tubes last a very long time.

RossNZ

Been running them a couple of years now with no issues.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Crew, you are not alone with high wear on the front. That slight angle on the shaft is causing all that wear. That is the only problem and it is the design of the drive-train causing this. If we tested them with lap times over 4 races with so many variables to consider, I don't think we could prove one allows you to turn faster laps than the other considering how much power we have these days. Pucks are efficient, but it comes at a cost.

I'm on the fence myself. I have been running the Pucks for a few months and on 4s many times. Out drives are nearly ready for replacement (rotated twice), the front shaft is finally shot after many races, and Cv pins and plastic pucks have been replaced often on the front and lubed every race. Rear holds up over time needing only a couple of puck replacements and one CV pin since new. This system is quiet and you can feel the difference if you are using them with lower power motors. Taking care of multiple rigs for me and my kids takes a toll on my time and funds so only my high maintenance racer gets the pucks.

I think if you work on your rig after every race and take it apart and clean/lube often, the Pucks are for you. If you bash or don't fix stuff till it breaks, stick to stock or Tekno for longevity. Just my opinion

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

If you run the king headz front diff mount they will last a long time. The wear is coming from the outdrive wobbling. The kh diff mount has 2 bearings and gives support for the outdrives. I ran that setup for a couple months and sold my truck to a fellow racer. Saw him at the track 2 weeks ago and he's still running the pucks that were on the truck when I sold it to him and they still look great.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

We actually package them with both.

cglt25

Just bought my scte 2.0 off a member here. Can't wait to set this thing up. I'm about 200 pages in

ridered4life250

iTrader: (4)

Thought i would post some pics of my "factory team" 2.0. One a side note, if anyone wansts to trade a built sc10.2 for a nice sct22, PM me.











And my B44.1.5. Also...will trade this bad dude for a losi sct22

cglt25

Just bought my scte 2.0 off a member here. Can't wait to set this thing up. I'm about 200 pages in