|
Ok, for everyone wondering about droop, shock shaft length, and limitiers, here are my findings.
.030" limiters = .76mm Front: -bottom e-clip to eyelet threads = 32mm -exposed shock shaft length with no limiters to eyelet threads = 22.25mm -exposed shock shaft length with no limiters with shock eyelet screwed all the way in hand tight = 21.25mm Rear: -bottom e-clip to eyelet threads = 38.5mm -exposed shock shaft length with no limiters to eyelet threads = 29mm -exposed shock shaft length with no limiters with shock eyelet screwed all the way in hand tight = 27.75mm On the eyelets I turned them pretty hard. They're definitely as far as they will go. These measurements were on brand new in package big bore shocks. These are my findings, take them with a grain of salt, miles my vary, etc. |
Originally Posted by Autocratic
(Post 12537940)
On the eyelets I turned them pretty hard. They're definitely as far as they will go. These are my findings, take them with a grain of salt, miles my vary, etc. I usually do the "wiggle test" to see if the shocks are pivoting on the shock eyelet ball. Bit of useful or useless info for ya |
Originally Posted by kyle3333
(Post 11760120)
I'm not sure if anyone on here has mentioned these, 9452K311 - Buna-n O-ring from McMaster Carr. They are basically the same as the factory O-rings for the bleeder screw as far as the dimensions, but they are black and definitely hold up better. They don't "balloon" out as easily when you are tightening the bleeder screw and they seem to last a lot longer.
I have run 4 different cars with and without O-rings and I have never had a leak. I prefer to run O-rings because I just want to be on the safe side I guess. But also because part of me thinks that over time the bleeder screw may start to wear and that could potentially create a situation for shock fluid to leak out if there isn't something else there to help the seal. This of course is just a thought. Like I said, I have run big bores without the O-rings and they were fine. But they were also pretty new. Here is the McMaster Carr O-ring part# again 9452K311 - Buna-n O-ring. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3470/=ogwhcj |
Those look a little excessive. Those type of o-rings are used a lot in automotive applications, and their hardness is probably going to be too much for RC situations.
I love the Reflex Racing o-rings. Super smooth and seal really well. $3 for 8 o-rings http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-3mm-...cs_p_1208.html |
lol, so wtf does the 21mm on the package mean for the fronts? it cant be the exposed amount, thats just to complicated, lol.
|
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 12538044)
lol, so wtf does the 21mm on the package mean for the fronts? it cant be the exposed amount, thats just to complicated, lol.
|
ok, stroke with no limiters and assembled, I guess that makes sense
|
Originally Posted by Autocratic
(Post 12538043)
Those look a little excessive. Those type of o-rings are used a lot in automotive applications, and their hardness is probably going to be too much for RC situations.
I love the Reflex Racing o-rings. Super smooth and seal really well. $3 for 8 o-rings http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-3mm-...cs_p_1208.html How soft are the reflex orings vs AE ones? |
Shock Piston Marathon
1st learned best not to mix shaped pistons with flat . use one or the other keeping the cars shock performance balance & equal... Started with the standard 2 x 1.6 flat , 35 w front , 30 w rear They feel very reactive & responsive , car rolls quicker & faster. Then our traction came up , the 1.6 became too planted and the car rolled hard in the turns.. solution switched to 1.7 x 2 flat , 40w front , 37.5w rear 1.7 feel very stable , easier to drive , more forgiving.. The heavier oil slow down the roll , pistons add a bit more grip.. Works so good I'm hating changing , but Lol gona do just that ..:batman: Everyone around here even agrees the flat 1.7 pistons are a favorite of their's . Now trying as my Ae Team mates are doing & suggesting .... Front 1.4 x 3 shaped , 35w Rear 1.6 x 2 shaped 32.5w Will see how they really perform on Fridays club race :cool: |
Wild cherry
I may not say much on these forums, but I want to thank you for all the clearly written test data that even a idiot like me can follow :) So a big thank you Ed |
Feel like showing off my baby :D
Check her out... http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd6ac50d8.jpg Edit:KFactory bits:) |
Edwin
TY trying .....:ha: Mass knowledge can be shared & this threads creditability soar's if we work like a team ..... |
B4 front sway bar
I know this is a bit unusual but does anybody know of a company that makes a front sway bay setup for the B4, B4.1 or B4.2?
|
Originally Posted by fatbear
(Post 12538539)
I know this is a bit unusual but does anybody know of a company that makes a front sway bay setup for the B4, B4.1 or B4.2?
|
I wonder if you could make the JConcepts one work on the front: http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=696
Maybe use the rear bars on the front mount to clear the shocks? Not seen this before, just a thought. |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:20 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.