No point in changing until you try it. Run whats on it then switch to the A and unshaved brace and see which you like better.

a little insight please maybe?

AE Oil, although they are the same. The kit comes with 1.6 / 1.7 / and 1.4? pistons.

i have a quastion about my wiring.
i still didnt run the car and the body painter has the body, so im not sure the way i wired the motor wires will work when the body will go on.
i dont want to get the wires in the shock tower cos if it brakes ill have to resolder which is a PITA.
this is how i wired:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...2/IMG_2668.JPG

do you think the body will rub the wires or its ok?

Most likely it will rub......

I don't think you'll have any major issues. Mine is even worse about rubbing than yours will be. Don't fret, you're good IMHO.

Either leave it alone and see how it feels, or put it back to stock and start over. Never ever ever ever ever make blind setup changes. You only ever make a setup change when you want to change the car in the way that the setup change changes the car. Convoluted concept, but the truth. The thing is, the way a setup change does what it does for you is going to be different than what it does for anyone else. That is why you should test it as empirically as possible. All that being said, if you are new at racing, odds are you won't be able to notice many changes. If that is the case, make sure you have the right tires, a mechanically sound car, and focus on not crashing. Once you can run an entire battery at race pace, WITHOUT CRASHING, then start worrying about setup changes.

THANKS .... this is mainly what I was wondering.

Great advice. :nod:

At our local high grip indoor clay track the A hub with either shaved or non shaved brace is the fast setup, but they are also running their electronics in the tray. The C hub setup is mostly used in conjunction with am esc shelf, its all about raising the roll center. Also some people shave the brace to have more precise roll center adjustment, and another reason is to lower the mount position, which in conjunction with a tall hub will raise the roll center.

We are using shaved brace in outdoor clay here downunder, gives more side bite

and less forward bite.

then when you lower the outside too, its like raising the inner (ish)

which is why alot of the time its shaved + c.

Anyone running c hubs without the shave mod and remove the washers? I'd rather not buy a Dremel if there is any benifit to running it this way.

see the post above ^^

A dremel is an absolute must have tool for this hobby! I couldn't live without it. If you can spend $12 on C hubs, you can find a dremel for $30 or knock offs for $20..