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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Wildcat1971 06-02-2013 08:51 PM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 12217336)
Hideeho
Sorry ahead of time because I know it has been asked before but I couldn't find it in a quick search:blush:

What size are the bleeder screws for the BB's?

its says in the manual.......2x4mm...

Waflet 06-02-2013 08:57 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12217380)
its says in the manual.......2x4mm...

Hideeho
Rtfm...:blush:
Tnx

Skillz_B 06-02-2013 08:58 PM

I am looking at the Speed Passion Club Combo for stock racing http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Timing-175R anyone running one?

Wild Cherry 06-02-2013 09:33 PM

Open cell foam front insert suggestions

*Most discard the included insert & use a rear insert..


* med to less traction

trim 3/16in off
contour out side & inside edges

* med traction

trim 3/16 off
no contour of the edges

*med to high traction

use whole rear insert , no trimming
or
a close cell insert

mihaelbencek 06-03-2013 12:24 AM

hi there

anyone tried the new v pro tires on his b4.2? there is neo tire chart, so i dont know which tire for which conditions

i am looking for turbotrax or striker from v pro. i need it outdoor. i need a tire which is like the holesot m4 from proline.

ebay007 06-03-2013 04:00 AM

what motor is recommended? (turn wise)
i want to run mod. 8.5 or 7.5?

LoudOne 06-03-2013 04:18 AM

Good morning... I figured I'd ask my question to the B4.2 people since you're probably all B4.1 experts... I'm almost finished modding my B4.1 which started out as an RTR but is now a hybrid between FT B4.1 and B4.2. The only thing that is still from the RTR is the Gear Diff. I'd like to keep the gear diff in there but want to get rid of the Dog Bones.
So if I get the 9677 FT CVA Set B4, will I be all set w/ keeping the gear diff?

Any advice/guidance is appreciated!

Wildcat1971 06-03-2013 04:38 AM

the gear diff and the ball diff use the same drive shafts

noworries 06-03-2013 05:53 AM

Okay, sorry I have to ask this B4.2 fanatics and I love my SC10.2. RB6, more expensive, but other than parts availability and costs, what are the "KEY" advantages B4.2 has over RB6? For example - RB aluminum chassis make it very stiff? is this an issue. thank you.

Wildcat1971 06-03-2013 06:20 AM

Price and parts availability. The rb(6is a great car

chevmaro 06-03-2013 08:02 AM


Originally Posted by Skillz_B (Post 12217401)
I am looking at the Speed Passion Club Combo for stock racing http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Timing-175R anyone running one?

Haven't tried the stock ESC but I do have a rev pro and I like it. Get it from speed passion directly though. It is cheaper and I usually get my stuff in 3-4 days.

Autocratic 06-03-2013 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings (Post 12217061)
I dont know...i use the one in the middle...maybe just smaller than the middle one. The 3206-3 has a rounder profile and fills the tire up better. the -2 is flatter.

I was told that the new -3 foam was degrading and coming apart very bad when it was released to team drivers. Foams were coming apart after a few runs. I was given a set to try out from a local team driver and they did the same thing on me. Actually had small pieces of foam coming out of the breather holes in the rim after three runs. I'm sure the issue is fixed by now but I've honestly never liked running JC foams in the rear. Front 2wd and 4wd work great. Rears just never seem to have the right feel to me, even with cutting.

I've been running cut AKA foams front and rear for a few weeks now. I take the inner ribs out completely so there's just a ring of foam inside the tire. Been working very well so far, and my tires wear more evenly instead of just in the middle.

Also, I've never put holes in the tires with closed cells. I hate water and dirt getting inside the wheel. What I do is punch holes in the foam with a hex driver before mounting. Six or so holes with a 2mm driver works perfect. Allows the foam to breathe and no mess.

t0p_sh0tta 06-03-2013 08:13 AM


Originally Posted by noworries (Post 12218226)
Okay, sorry I have to ask this B4.2 fanatics and I love my SC10.2. RB6, more expensive, but other than parts availability and costs, what are the "KEY" advantages B4.2 has over RB6? For example - RB aluminum chassis make it very stiff? is this an issue. thank you.

Key advantage? There isn't one really. Fit and finish, as well as the shocks on the RB6 are superior, but definitely not $200 more superior. Awesome car, but I couldn't justify the initial cost and the upkeep.

Wildcat1971 06-03-2013 08:21 AM


Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta (Post 12218647)
Key advantage? There isn't one really. Fit and finish, as well as the shocks on the RB6 are superior, but definitely not $200 more superior. Awesome car, but I couldn't justify the initial cost and the upkeep.

+1 Great car, just costs a lot.

Cody227 06-03-2013 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by j.d.roost (Post 12216811)
I just bought a 4.2 for our high grip-carpet track. Grip is very much like your tracks over in Europe.
To keep things short...Look for a mid motor car. In my opinion..The b4.X can't use it's advantages on turf or carpet as it can on dirt. It's a great dirt car (I would say the best)...but there are too many other options for turf/carpet that you can probably pick up cheaper and more importantly...get replacement parts for in your location.
I grabbed a used dex210 to hold me over until the x-factory cube kit comes out for my 4.2. It's a really good car and I picked up a tenth average per lap with no knowledge of correct setup for it. All I did was switch it from rear to mid motor and put some springs and oil in it.;)

Not to steer you away from the ae on the ae thread....Just don't want you to get suck waiting for parts if they are hard to get over there.
Hope that helps.

Part availibility couldn't be better, we even have someone at the track who sells them. The problem is that a new B4.2 is too expensive for me (im student) and used ones are very rare to get. even if you find a B4.1 in reasonably good condition, they're way more expensive than a B4.2 from rctech in top condition. (about 170 at rcweb.de for a B4.1 and <150 at rctech for a better B4.2)

I don't know if the rear-motor config will be a problem. The buggies are very light and there shouldn't be a runtime problem if i add a few grams to change the weight distribution. Also i trust the associated-plastic much more than lets say losi or durango.
Additionally i already designed a midmotor chassis for stickpacks in CAD, just need someone to machine the toeblocks


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