+1 :nod: That's always been my experience.

To me, both. But more so, sidebite.

So my "general" set-up I have using the midrange of hexes. If I want more traction I go to the narrower hexes, and if I want a little less grip I'll go to the wider hexes.

Not mind .... Still Smooth ......

If you are so concern about pin wear ?

The pin is the least of the wear problems . The barrel & dog bone wear far more before the pin does .
Feel this is the source of the bind you are experiencing ...

Mostly forward, side bite is certainly affected though. Basically on any car that I've tried it... It's just a fail. Unless you have a track that pretty uneven and rough but still has good grip.... Which rarely happens... We run into that out here on our outdoor tracks in the summer. Most all tracks have to water frequently. It some get rutted and blown out(thanks to f'n Ebuggy and 4x4sc)...

Without ever trying it.... I'd say if you're running the C hub setup(which has a tendancy to feel great in a corner than all of the sudden step out) I'd say too going wider at the hex would make the car totally hurting.

Now with an A hub setup... It could very well work to an advantage if you have track conditions like I mentioned.

the main reason AE cars don't come with carbon is because back in the original B4 days, everyone found that the flex that came from the plastic translated into a more stable and better handling car. In theory, as the grip comes up, then you switch to stiffer suspension parts, namely carbon arms. The carbon flexes less, so it reduces the level of grip. This is important if you run on high bite surfaces.

Most common parts changed are front arms, caster blocks, front top brace, and U Brace.

People will also use the rear arms from B44, which are in between std plastic and carbon. Again.... just a tuning option.

Unless you are on a very high bite surface, just throw standard kit plastic on and run it until it breaks. The slop that comes just adds to the traction.


as far as why does the 4.2 cost more? Well the shocks alone are 100.00 upgrade. The alum rack, hex conversion, vts slipper... you're looking at another 50.00-70.00. So for the money, it's a great deal.

The downside to the 4.2 is that if you want a 'fresh tight car', you will need to put new plastics on (arms, bulkheads, castor blocks) every 4-6 weeks.

I started reading about it alot more once i got the BB shocks, because they never felt right to me. I was trying to figure out what to do. I liked the v2's in the corners, but i liked the pack of the BB shocks. With the 1.7's by buggy drove horrible. No pack and like a boat in the corners. With the 1.6's I had the pack I wanted, but it was kinda of over sensitive in the corners. So far, it feels liek the 1.4x3 give me the pack of the 1.6's and the cornering of the v2's. I only have one week on the new pistons, so the jury is still out. But that is my take so far. How big were the #2's? ~ 2x 1.2 = 2.4. So obviously it cant be that simple. The bore size change would obviously effect it also. Like I said, I read quite a bit about pack when i was chassis slapping all over the place. More holes almost always means that the total area of the holes is larger than with fewer holes. but with increased pack and a change in low speed dampening.

That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for a great explanation.

I've actually grown to like the shorties - because then I can use the extra 100grams worth of weight bars were, how much, and why I want it.
But at the same time I have standard packs too, just so it's an option.
It's not like I need the mAh rating of a long pack, not when I'm only putting 1200-1500 back into the pack after a race/heat.

Everything is new when i noticed this

See for yourself

build a new set and tell me near full movement if you noice anything then remove set screw and try again.

the method i used to try this was holding the axle in one hand and letting the cva hang and basically do small circles with my hand on the axle and noticing the cva movement, i did it back to back to back and everytime with the set screw in it didnt move as nicely but im done beating this dead horse.

Well, we could probably go on all day about this - but it was a huge adjustment for me when I got my 22 with big bores. Way different fluid choices than what I was used to.
But then they were 4-hole pistons, microscopic in size compared to the ones in the AE bigbore pistons. When we first started dabbling with the TLR pistons to change them to 2-holers, we were filling up 2 of the holes and boring out the other two to 1.6 - and then the AE pistons came out, and no more dorking with TLR pistons.
Then we could get into the whole tapered piston thing, or mip's bypass pistons ..... there's no end. :tire:
It still comes down to the track, and fine-tuning, and personal preference. I've been back and forth a bunch, probably too many times, but it's just one of many things to mess with.

I didn't mean to disrupt your bussy schedule. So do you work on busses, or do you drive them? Basically I was saying that running the set screw will change the way the car handles. You made your decision to run what you run based on how it felt in your hands and that is fine. What you did would be like building two set of shocks with different pistons, and then picking one set solely on how they felt in your hands. I was wondering if anyone had done back to back on track testing with and without the set screw.

Also YGPM.

As for the "Cvd" discussion...

Actual MIP cvd's have more bind(by design)

The AE cva's have less bind(by design and certainly when NOT using the screw)

Normally my home track is medium bite at best usually slick and rough... After many practice days the MIP Cvd was just better because the bind they created gave more forward bite, better on the bumps and you can get onto the straight(on the gas hard) way better than with cva's...

Conversely, on a smoother track lots of turns/twists or banking... Cva's are much quicker and carry more corner speed!

yeah, that is what I did with my shorties. I lightened the car then I added weight in different places. But it still felt best with a full pack. To me anyway. On my other car I like shorties because it can suck trying to remove a full pack, lol. Still adding weight to that car.

Totally agree! :nod:

Eli

The difference or improvement as you claim is not good enough to risk a DNF .

This is why Brown told me use the screw on his CVA ...

I agree with his experience , use it & share with everyone ...:)

Tonight I will examine both just for fun...

Will remove my worn out CVA pins & compare to pins that did not use the screw with the same wear & tear .....

yeah, that is pretty much what I read about the CVD's and the bind. Some people still use them for tuning. Does the CVS's with the set screw bind in the same way as the CVD's? I would assume different, but unsure if less or more binding. I can visually see how a free floating pin would bind less when it is not held in place with a set screw. With out feeling them in my hands or running on the track, that would make sense. But as always, it depends on how the change feels to the driver. most people come here to ask how well something works because they dont want to spend the money unless the reviews are good. Others buy everything and try it out and report back. Last, some just do what ever their friends do and believe it. Most people are of the first type. the first group rely on the second group to help decide what to buy. The last group are living in their own world. I am in the second group, lol.


To further this discussion. What about Dogbone pin wear? I have notices that some of my pins are getting flat spots on the forward driving face. I know some people rotate the bone (left to right) to get a more even wear. This flat spot seems like it would cause more friction on the plunge and also add in more bind under power. So how does all that play into when to replace the bones.