17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
08-27-2013, 08:05 PM
ewippler makes a carbon fiber shaft for the Ofna 1/8 electric buggy. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...g-cars-27.html. Im sure this would work for our application.
08-27-2013, 08:05 PM
Cain: It's not perfect. The stiffer springs are causing some issues. I will be creating landing ramps for the jumps eventually. Overall the car is much improved. It no longer bottoms out at least. Everywhere else it's better.
08-27-2013, 08:15 PM
Cool. was wondering if with the 1.4 x 8 hole pistons if the stiffer springs are blowing through them causing issues in comparison to a 1.3 x 8 hole setup, if that makes sense.
08-27-2013, 08:57 PM
08-27-2013, 09:07 PM
I used the furthest forward hole in the front.
Attachment 1105665
In the rear I used the furthest forward hole as well.
Attachment 1105666
Attachment 1105665
In the rear I used the furthest forward hole as well.
Attachment 1105666
08-28-2013, 03:45 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
08-28-2013, 05:59 AM
yes but take it slow with the drill so you don't melt the plastic. Using the 4v version which I really like I set the clutch to 5 then finish off the last bit by hand. Also be careful if you use it with Al wheel nuts when putting tires on. I've cross-threaded two JC nuts and ruined them as well as one tekno.
08-28-2013, 06:23 AM
I've got wrist issues and have been through a few drivers. My favorite so far Is the Bosch driver. The clutch is pretty soft and is great for the plastic on the Tekno.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_72876-353-PS...ver&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_72876-353-PS...ver&facetInfo=
08-28-2013, 06:57 AM
http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/po...ordless/HP53LK
I use this on everything and just make sure to use the appropriate torque amount. Its great and comes with a nice little bag to toss all of your bits in and the charge lasts a while, built my whole kit on one charge. Although I do suggest hand wrenching some more sensitive areas like the diffs but with any driver, try not to push, let the screw find the threads to avoid cross threading, t his is not as important on the initial build because you are creating the threads in many situations but I still try to let the screw pull in rather then push it in.
I use this on everything and just make sure to use the appropriate torque amount. Its great and comes with a nice little bag to toss all of your bits in and the charge lasts a while, built my whole kit on one charge. Although I do suggest hand wrenching some more sensitive areas like the diffs but with any driver, try not to push, let the screw find the threads to avoid cross threading, t his is not as important on the initial build because you are creating the threads in many situations but I still try to let the screw pull in rather then push it in.
08-28-2013, 07:08 AM
Ooohhhh mechanical brakes would be so sweet outdoors. Brake bias front to rear and (IMO) more control in your brakes. More of a benefit on a outdoor track where traction is not like a high bite clay indoor track.
Cooler motor temps because your motor is not doing the braking.
Clutch is a benefit if you come from racing nitro and the freewheel effect of it is what your used to. Also on a outdoor track the turns are a little bigger in arc so you don't want your motor to act as a brake when you want to flow through the turn.
Just my take from racing nitro buggy for years, I would go to that setup if I raced outdoor regularly but the somewhat local tracks are all indoor high bite tracks that don't have lanes as wide as a driveway.
Cooler motor temps because your motor is not doing the braking.
Clutch is a benefit if you come from racing nitro and the freewheel effect of it is what your used to. Also on a outdoor track the turns are a little bigger in arc so you don't want your motor to act as a brake when you want to flow through the turn.
Just my take from racing nitro buggy for years, I would go to that setup if I raced outdoor regularly but the somewhat local tracks are all indoor high bite tracks that don't have lanes as wide as a driveway.
08-28-2013, 07:15 AM
http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/po...ordless/HP53LK
I use this on everything and just make sure to use the appropriate torque amount. Its great and comes with a nice little bag to toss all of your bits in and the charge lasts a while, built my whole kit on one charge. Although I do suggest hand wrenching some more sensitive areas like the diffs but with any driver, try not to push, let the screw find the threads to avoid cross threading, t his is not as important on the initial build because you are creating the threads in many situations but I still try to let the screw pull in rather then push it in.
I use this on everything and just make sure to use the appropriate torque amount. Its great and comes with a nice little bag to toss all of your bits in and the charge lasts a while, built my whole kit on one charge. Although I do suggest hand wrenching some more sensitive areas like the diffs but with any driver, try not to push, let the screw find the threads to avoid cross threading, t his is not as important on the initial build because you are creating the threads in many situations but I still try to let the screw pull in rather then push it in.
My drill, a driver that fits the wheel nuts, a AE blue handle hex set, and a pair of needle nose handles 90% of my tool needs.
08-28-2013, 07:35 AM
If they are like every other mechanical brake, there's a disk on the front and back side of the diff. You set the linkage to pull more on the front than the rear or rear more than the front or somewhere in between.
Last edited by fq06; 08-28-2013 at 08:35 AM.
08-28-2013, 08:31 AM
Yep and a spare battery is < $10 One charge lasts all race day and can always bring the spare just in case. It's one of those deals where the same battery can power flashlights radio's etc. in that line of tools.
My drill, a driver that fits the wheel nuts, a AE blue handle hex set, and a pair of needle nose handles 90% of my tool needs.
My drill, a driver that fits the wheel nuts, a AE blue handle hex set, and a pair of needle nose handles 90% of my tool needs.
08-28-2013, 08:42 AM
I've got wrist issues and have been through a few drivers. My favorite so far Is the Bosch driver. The clutch is pretty soft and is great for the plastic on the Tekno.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_72876-353-PS...ver&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_72876-353-PS...ver&facetInfo=
http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/po...ordless/HP53LK
I use this on everything and just make sure to use the appropriate torque amount. Its great and comes with a nice little bag to toss all of your bits in and the charge lasts a while, built my whole kit on one charge. Although I do suggest hand wrenching some more sensitive areas like the diffs but with any driver, try not to push, let the screw find the threads to avoid cross threading, t his is not as important on the initial build because you are creating the threads in many situations but I still try to let the screw pull in rather then push it in.
I use this on everything and just make sure to use the appropriate torque amount. Its great and comes with a nice little bag to toss all of your bits in and the charge lasts a while, built my whole kit on one charge. Although I do suggest hand wrenching some more sensitive areas like the diffs but with any driver, try not to push, let the screw find the threads to avoid cross threading, t his is not as important on the initial build because you are creating the threads in many situations but I still try to let the screw pull in rather then push it in.
http://www.makitausa.com/en-us/Modul...spx?Name=FD01W
I had a contractor doing some work at my house and he was using one of these. Picked his up and after about 2 min of checking it out I went and ordered one.
08-28-2013, 08:57 AM
Ive had both of those at one point and they work fine, but this is the ultimate driver IMO.
http://www.makitausa.com/en-us/Modul...spx?Name=FD01W
I had a contractor doing some work at my house and he was using one of these. Picked his up and after about 2 min of checking it out I went and ordered one.
http://www.makitausa.com/en-us/Modul...spx?Name=FD01W
I had a contractor doing some work at my house and he was using one of these. Picked his up and after about 2 min of checking it out I went and ordered one.
For about $100 bucks you can get the driver and two battery packs on Amazon. The battery lasts about 5 times as long as that Ryobi. With the Ryobi, the battery was good for maybe one complete build on a car. The Makita lasts forever. Plus it charges almost completely in like 30 minutes. You never have to worry about a dead battery. The clutch is also much more fine tuned along with the speed and won't strip the plastic. Finally, it is just a way more comfortable driver.