17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
08-12-2013, 08:22 AM
I have run all types of top-tier servos--Radiopost are my number 1 choice.
I run the Red-lock down the saver and never an issue!
08-12-2013, 08:26 AM
@Mizchief you should come on down to Savnnah to test your skills out.. Tons of platforms running from the new Durango to the Losi 2 and everything in between.. This is a typically shot of the drivers stand on our club races for the 4x4 class..
And we have about the same amount of short course as the 2WD class..
And we have about the same amount of short course as the 2WD class..
If your ever looking for a Friday night race they run 4x4 at Hotshots. It's right off I-75 at the Canton hwy exit.
08-12-2013, 09:20 AM
What are everyone's thoughts on pistons? CSI or Fioroni or Tekno 8x1.3 still having nose dive issue if I don't seriously decelerate before 2 jumps at my track and I've done stiffer springs in back and fluid. The other jumps I can do fine just have to let off throttle and then slam throttle in air to bring her level again, this is 1/8thtrack w big jumps.
FRONT: 3.9lb Spring 35W Losi Oil
REAR: 2.7lb Spring 30W Losi Oil
I use a variety of springs, in my box are HB Springs and AE Springs, along with the Tekno ones my vehicle came with. For my EB48 I even have a set of Xray ones laying around it came with.
Gotta love this thing.Had a fun afternoon at the track. Raced the truck and I won all three heats, tq'd and won the main! Yay. I did some setup changes and ... It worked!
Increased rear camber from 1.5 to 2.5*
Shortened rear link to outter hole on tower
Back to a lighter sway bar in the rear
Stood rear shocks up one hole on tower.
Increased rear camber from 1.5 to 2.5*
Shortened rear link to outter hole on tower
Back to a lighter sway bar in the rear
Stood rear shocks up one hole on tower.
I've seen two folks talk about this on the forum... but thought it was a rare event. So, I didn't bother with the fix (dremel out part of the chassis under the spur). But this weekend, had a little rock wedge itself between the chassis and the spur gear (no opening in the chassis as in with 1/8 scale to let debris out). Definitely not the pinion, as the pinion is wider than the spur. So if you are on an outdoor track where there are little rocks that might get caught...
timamybrown: Any new setups?
08-12-2013, 10:00 AM
Oh boy Cain you gonna make me writ this all down...
Front:
Pink/40wt middle arm, 2nd to outter on tower
Stock pistons front and rear
2.4 sway bar
Middle inner hole on tower, inner hole on hub
Middle hole Ackerman
1bumpsteer washer
Hd servo spring pretty dang tight
Outter position front block
Upper position inner block
102mm droop
.5* toe. 1.5* camber
24mm ride height
7-10-5 diffs
Reedy 4.5 and a lrp flow 15 tooth pinion
Savox 1258 ? It's the one ending in "8"
Tlr body and subarbs
Rear:
Green 32.5wt middle arm and 2nd to outter hole on tower
Outter bottom camber hole on tower Middle hole on hub
Inner pin hole on hub
2.3 swaybar
Inside position on outter block
Upper position on inner lock
Droop 117*
24mm ride height
Hubs all the way forward
I think that's all there? Lol
Front:
Pink/40wt middle arm, 2nd to outter on tower
Stock pistons front and rear
2.4 sway bar
Middle inner hole on tower, inner hole on hub
Middle hole Ackerman
1bumpsteer washer
Hd servo spring pretty dang tight
Outter position front block
Upper position inner block
102mm droop
.5* toe. 1.5* camber
24mm ride height
7-10-5 diffs
Reedy 4.5 and a lrp flow 15 tooth pinion
Savox 1258 ? It's the one ending in "8"
Tlr body and subarbs
Rear:
Green 32.5wt middle arm and 2nd to outter hole on tower
Outter bottom camber hole on tower Middle hole on hub
Inner pin hole on hub
2.3 swaybar
Inside position on outter block
Upper position on inner lock
Droop 117*
24mm ride height
Hubs all the way forward
I think that's all there? Lol
08-12-2013, 10:07 AM
Had a fun afternoon at the track. Raced the truck and I won all three heats, tq'd and won the main! Yay. I did some setup changes and ... It worked!
Increased rear camber from 1.5 to 2.5*
Shortened rear link to outter hole on tower
Back to a lighter sway bar in the rear
Stood rear shocks up one hole on tower.
Increased rear camber from 1.5 to 2.5*
Shortened rear link to outter hole on tower
Back to a lighter sway bar in the rear
Stood rear shocks up one hole on tower.
<S>
08-12-2013, 10:20 AM
+1
I remember a few years ago getting our first Mugen and seeing the opening on the chassis right under the spur and thinking this was going to be a problem area with running outdoors. Now I've come to understand that for any type of environment that has rocks/pebbles/etc its better to have an opening than not!
I remember a few years ago getting our first Mugen and seeing the opening on the chassis right under the spur and thinking this was going to be a problem area with running outdoors. Now I've come to understand that for any type of environment that has rocks/pebbles/etc its better to have an opening than not!
I just ordered a new EB48 body, and I'm going to use it as a clear over tray cover to keep much of the crap out. Anyone tried this yet?
08-12-2013, 10:24 AM
I haven't don't yet but I've been dieing to try it..You might also need eb48 body mounts part # 5026.
08-12-2013, 10:29 AM
I haven't seen one in my area. What I can say about Hitec, is that I've never experienced any glitching, and a 3 year warranty is tough to beat.
08-12-2013, 10:31 AM
08-12-2013, 10:37 AM
Last week I got a pebble wedged between the chassis and the spur. It stopped my truck dead.
08-12-2013, 10:42 AM
Fun weekend. Raced my friends backyard track for hours. His Losi was set up better than my Tekno for that track, more of an indoor style (his had softer suspension.) I drove his car and it seemed I was able to carry more speed through the turns. The car felt more confident. Again, I think it had a lot to do with set up.
The DE Borrengo's were still rubbing on the inside and caused my wheel to loosen up again. Caught it in time not to totally ruin the wheel hex area. Dremeled out some of the webbing and it worked fine the rest of the day. I really believe it's up to Tekno to design a wheel that works specific to our cars. Something with small but many webbings would be a good design.
The truck was really durable and handled excellent.
I'm running stock pistons, with green spring front and rears. The car was jumping much better, not nose diving as much.
Once I got home I drove my track. Very different. Open, fast, bigger jumps. The rear tire loosened up again. Not sure why but this issue is soooo annoying. Didn't seemed to be rubbing either.
Again, on my track the truck was jumping slight nose up which was great. I'm going to try the 1.3x8 pistons as many of you have done to see how that changes things. Forgot, 35ft 30rr oil.
The DE Borrengo's were still rubbing on the inside and caused my wheel to loosen up again. Caught it in time not to totally ruin the wheel hex area. Dremeled out some of the webbing and it worked fine the rest of the day. I really believe it's up to Tekno to design a wheel that works specific to our cars. Something with small but many webbings would be a good design.
The truck was really durable and handled excellent.
I'm running stock pistons, with green spring front and rears. The car was jumping much better, not nose diving as much.
Once I got home I drove my track. Very different. Open, fast, bigger jumps. The rear tire loosened up again. Not sure why but this issue is soooo annoying. Didn't seemed to be rubbing either.
Again, on my track the truck was jumping slight nose up which was great. I'm going to try the 1.3x8 pistons as many of you have done to see how that changes things. Forgot, 35ft 30rr oil.
Hey man sorry for your luck with the rims! Try the AKA Cyclones for the Losi SCTE they work perfect. Probably have to use the acetone trick to get your tires off and salvage them.
Also I recommend the tekno cnc conical 1.3x8 pistons they definitely performed better for me than standard kyosho or X-rays.
08-12-2013, 10:51 AM
Hey man sorry for your luck with the rims! Try the AKA Cyclones for the Losi SCTE they work perfect. Probably have to use the acetone trick to get your tires off and salvage them.
Also I recommend the tekno cnc conical 1.3x8 pistons they definitely performed better for me than standard kyosho or X-rays.
Also I recommend the tekno cnc conical 1.3x8 pistons they definitely performed better for me than standard kyosho or X-rays.
And BTW I found a good trick to cut down on wasted acetone, get a seal-able container and fill it with aquarium gravel up to the point it covers your wheels, then pour in the acetone until it covers the wheels. This give you full submersion with minimal acetone.
Otherwise at $15 a half gallon it's cheaper to just buy new wheels.
08-12-2013, 11:05 AM
08-12-2013, 11:08 AM
Yes. My thinking is the wheel catches on the webbing and then the drive shaft continues to spin there by loosening the nut. When the nut loosens the hex becomes loose and then you've just ruined a set of wheels and possibly tires.
08-12-2013, 11:13 AM
