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Old 02-06-2013, 03:04 PM
  #3991  
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Hey I just want to post this up in case anyone is having the same problem I was having...

If you notice your truck doesn't have the steering you'd expect, especially on-power, but off-power as well, check to make sure you didn't tighten down the set screws on the sway bars. The instructions do mention this, but mistakes do happen. If you tighten these down, you're essentially adding spring to the suspension, but not tying the two arms together like the sway bars are intended to work...

Edit: Props to Pres for figuring this out for me

And pre-props to Pres for hooking me up with some new tires.... (I can dream, right?)
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry Baker
I want some!!!!!! Oh wait... Im getting some....
do the AKA wheels fit ok without rubbing?
thanks
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:15 PM
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Fixing to do all my fluids. How's 5/7/3 and 40/35 sound with stock springs? Going to be ran outdoor mostly.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Then you'll be happy to hear that builtRC just made their first order from Tekno. Yes, that's right. BuiltRC is now a Tekno dealer! So expect the same great service and fast shipping.
I already knew that but didn't know if it was a secret. I need to order a set of Tekno 17mm wheel adapters for my 410 when they become available. I've gone threw three wheels in three trips to the track. Can't figure out why, I made sure the threads are clean. I put some blue loctite on them with fresh wheel nuts and if I forget to check them after two runs a wheel will fall off. Stripping a wheel in the process. Screw it I'm going with 17mm. I'd like to meet the dick decided 1/10 needed 12mm hubs I'd like to give him a swift kick in the beans. Jusy saying! LOL Minor problem, only other problem I'm having with my 410 is a leaky center dif. I took apart again today and can't find any reason for it. The orings looks good and I do not over fill them. Any body got any ideas I would really appreciate it! All in all a great kit and with so many guys working together it's only going to get better and faster.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
Jones, looks like that's a MMP you're hooking it up to based on the cable?
I'd like to hear your report on how well it works together with that motor for both heat and smoothness.

I soldered up my hobbywing 4000Kv to a mmp. Was a little difficult to solder for me (kinda needed 3 hands). I've got two joints i know are good, but the third one i'm not so sure about. The one i'm not sure about feels solid, but doesn't have that smooth layer of soler like the other 2 do. The wire in question is the red one. Do i need to re-do it? Ran smooth when i tested the truck on the ground. Here it is:

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Old 02-06-2013, 03:28 PM
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I honestly would redo that one wire.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jones8352
I already knew that but didn't know if it was a secret. I need to order a set of Tekno 17mm wheel adapters for my 410 when they become available. I've gone threw three wheels in three trips to the track. Can't figure out why, I made sure the threads are clean. I put some blue loctite on them with fresh wheel nuts and if I forget to check them after two runs a wheel will fall off. Stripping a wheel in the process. Screw it I'm going with 17mm. I'd like to meet the dick decided 1/10 needed 12mm hubs I'd like to give him a swift kick in the beans. Jusy saying! LOL Minor problem, only other problem I'm having with my 410 is a leaky center dif. I took apart again today and can't find any reason for it. The orings looks good and I do not over fill them. Any body got any ideas I would really appreciate it! All in all a great kit and with so many guys working together it's only going to get better and faster.
Whenever I build a diff, I always use lucky 7 sealant on the gaskets. I never have diff leaks, ever
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MattP
I honestly would redo that one wire.
Well i re-did it. May not be as pretty as the others, but i KNOW it's solid. I think the amount of heat i got from the wire into my finger holding it, was a good indicator i had a good hot joint. Just trying to wiggle the wire around, i can already tell it's more solid than before. Again, not pretty (got prettier from last time), but i know it's a good joint. Here's a pic:

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Old 02-06-2013, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jones8352
I already knew that but didn't know if it was a secret. I need to order a set of Tekno 17mm wheel adapters for my 410 when they become available. I've gone threw three wheels in three trips to the track. Can't figure out why, I made sure the threads are clean. I put some blue loctite on them with fresh wheel nuts and if I forget to check them after two runs a wheel will fall off. Stripping a wheel in the process. Screw it I'm going with 17mm. I'd like to meet the dick decided 1/10 needed 12mm hubs I'd like to give him a swift kick in the beans. Jusy saying! LOL Minor problem, only other problem I'm having with my 410 is a leaky center dif. I took apart again today and can't find any reason for it. The orings looks good and I do not over fill them. Any body got any ideas I would really appreciate it! All in all a great kit and with so many guys working together it's only going to get better and faster.


Haven't stripped out one wheel running 17mm DE rims... your absolutely right... 12mm on a SCT is a fail.

But, DE rims are somewhat of a fail as well. They are super soft pliable plastic, I don't like them but that's all that's out there. The ones for the sc8, 0 offset.

I put a bug in JConcepts ear and it was noted... hopefully they won't be long getting them to market.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sramos420
haha....i know a couple guys that are die hard losi fans that arent to into the sct410 thinking the losi 2.0 is going to be better then sliced bread. im interested to see. its like their in denial that anything could be better then a losi lol. i assume there is going to be alot of problems with it compared to the minor problems this platform has. its like Tekno is the new pimp in town taking over corners and everyones girls. layin the pimp hand down!!!!!

Post of the year . We had a good laugh in the office here. Hahaha


now that i can turn tighter and under anyone at the track now, it i turn in under someone and bump them a little bit. thats with i call it lol you just got pimp slap'd hahahhahahahahaa
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fq06
Haven't stripped out one wheel running 17mm DE rims... your absolutely right... 12mm on a SCT is a fail.

But, DE rims are somewhat of a fail as well. They are super soft pliable plastic, I don't like them but that's all that's out there. The ones for the sc8, 0 offset.

I put a bug in JConcepts ear and it was noted... hopefully they won't be long getting them to market.
The wheels that failed were DE 12mms, I know their 17mm will have to be a lot stronger. Hope so I just got my tires delivered a few mins ago. Come on Jconcept!
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Foosmatrix
Whenever I build a diff, I always use lucky 7 sealant on the gaskets. I never have diff leaks, ever
Lucky 7 sealant I've never heard of that. I'll have to check at my local parts store.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:08 PM
  #4003  
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Take a brush and some alcohol and knock that flux off th solder joints stuff is corrosive! And pre-tin all wires double pre- tin gold plated terminals.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Well i re-did it. May not be as pretty as the others, but i KNOW it's solid. I think the amount of heat i got from the wire into my finger holding it, was a good indicator i had a good hot joint. Just trying to wiggle the wire around, i can already tell it's more solid than before. Again, not pretty (got prettier from last time), but i know it's a good joint. Here's a pic:

That definitely looks like a more solid connection than before....
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:12 PM
  #4005  
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Yeah 12mm for these scts with as much power as the newer 4 pole motors make is a huge fail. I think I might go the 17mm route as well. I would hate to dnf due to a stripped wheel.
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