17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
10-13-2017, 01:07 PM
Tech Master
I've now switched to the LF SCT springs, I'm now orange front, and green rear. I may grab a set of yellow front's to soften the nose a tad. But, it works REALLY well on turf, so I may not.
I would stay where your at for oils though,.
10-15-2017, 08:06 AM
Tech Fanatic
I wouldn't go much softer on the springs especially the rear spring if you were nose diving. Check the very first post on this thread, it has spring chart for Tekno springs and another for all major brands of springs (including Tekno). But if you are too stiff; springs and oil aren't your problem. What sway bars are you using and are you sure nothing is binding? I have 2 one I use for oval and the other I use for off road. with exception of the front spring (oval car has a black off road has a pink) both have a yellow rear spring and the oval car has similar oils and positions. Big difference in the pack; however, which is most likely because of the oil (I recently bought the off road one and it is so good I haven't played with the shocks to see why - but I suspect it is the oil). both are V.01 truucks
10-15-2017, 09:34 AM
I have ho idea what sway bars I have, I bought it used...is there a way to tell? ....also on the pinion gear...a 13t would be more top speed and a 17t would be for more acceleration? is that right? ..I need more high RPMs to make my motor run cooler.
thanks
thanks
10-15-2017, 10:31 AM
No, it's the other way round. Smaller pinion = better acceleration, larger pinion = higher top speed (obviously while spur gear remaining the same).
10-15-2017, 02:02 PM
I have 2.4mm sway on rear and 2.3mm front....those seem to be the stock ones...
Last edited by skinned; 10-15-2017 at 02:58 PM.
10-15-2017, 06:34 PM
Tech Fanatic
Yep other way around wrt the pinion. The sway bar holders have a window that allows you to see the size of the TEKNO sway bar. If you cannot read it, there is always calipers to measure them. I have 2.4mm on the front and 2.6mm on the rear (oval truck). I adjust these by moving the connection points in and out and thus exposing some of the sway bar beyond the connection point (old oval trick).
10-16-2017, 08:04 AM
Tech Master
What motor and track size? 13t pinion is small for just about any motor I normally run.
10-16-2017, 08:33 AM
10-16-2017, 06:31 PM
I would not hesitate to drop a 15t pinion on that motor on that track
10-17-2017, 05:37 AM
Tech Master
10-17-2017, 06:33 AM
well I had a 16t on there ... and I was unsoldering the motor wires at the end of the race(I can solder)...sometimes not even finishing because of it...so I have a 15 on there now and bought a motor fan...fingers crossed...
10-17-2017, 01:59 PM
if the wires come unsoldered from hotness this time...the 13 is goin on there...
10-17-2017, 02:06 PM
The wires shouldn't desolder themselves like that. Solder begins to melt at 360°, so you are getting a localized hot spot on the solder tabs caused by an unusual amount of resistance in the joint. You might need to take a file to the tabs and clean them up until you get down to bare metal. An oxide layer might have formed, preventing a solid connection. Replace your wire as well. As a final step, switch to silver, lead-free solder. It has a higher melting temperature and a lower resistance as well.
10-17-2017, 02:21 PM
well im using this solder..is it the wrong solder?
Dia.1.0mm/0.039Inch 63% Tin 37% Lead 1.8% Flux Rosin Core
Dia.1.0mm/0.039Inch 63% Tin 37% Lead 1.8% Flux Rosin Core
10-17-2017, 02:30 PM
In my opinion, the solder you are using should be just fine so long as you are creating a good solder joint. Bad solder jobs can do this to plugs. And while silver solder has less resistance, it is also a little tougher to work with and will not change anything if the real issue is a bad connection after the solder solidifies