racer240521

iTrader: (2)

john bernard put one of these together last thurs and fri night box set up, ran the truck race at go hard sat TQ ed and won first race with almost no practise,mine will be here weds cant wait

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

Cain,
Yes there are a few benefits to the aluminum hexes. The first being you are less likely to strip out the wheel, as the aluminum hex does not flex like a plastic hex will(if a wheel nut were to become loose). Second is that with a aluminum hex you may torque the wheel down more and not have binding because of the flex in the plastic piece. Lastly the aluminum hexes are clamping hexes so when you pull your wheels off to clean and work on your ride they will not come off and eliminate the problem of losing a hex pin.
-Thomas

Marzac2

iTrader: (12)

Im running very close to the box set up. Main changes are rear hubs are moved forward, with 1mm spacer in front and 4 mm behind. Also changed the front kick-up angle to the least amount of kick-up (front inner brace inserts are in the top position).

There are going to be many set-ups for the truck. Just going to depend on driving styles and what your looking to get out of it.

Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

What rpm range are you using?

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

Suby723,
Kit setup is the correct starting point(center and rear braces are optional), but the braces for us are used for tuning on a high bite track without the center and rear braces we get better traction as it allows flex in the chassis. On our track we prefer not to run the rear and center braces. I believe as well it says in the manual that the braces are optional in the center and rear. Everyone drives different and every track is different, you just have to try it out and make changes from there.
-Thomas

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks for the info guys. I actually was referring to using the Tekno ones versus the AE ones as they have a different look to them, etc.

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Not sure if there's a width difference but I would think they should fit. The way they clamp is different and the AE one kinda have a flange built into them.
I think Shark has both sets, maybe he can test for us?

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Check the EB48 thread, I'm pretty sure a guy in there was able to get his Activ8 to fit. And since SC's use shorter motors you actually have more space for the ESC.

Wease

iTrader: (77)

Order mind from Tower Hobbies yesterday, but it's on back-order status. I hope the next batch comes in soon. Started with the Durango, then the AE, then the Losi and my current ride is an MBX6 Eco converted. I better settle on one soon

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

Thanks Big Homie! In the middle of the build... i'll be done by end of the week!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yup, Sharks on the case. We may need a bigger boat however ...

MattP

iTrader: (440)

So with a 4600 on a medium sized high bite track a 15t should be a good starting point?

Going to finally get my butt in gear and start building these things!

Bernard_Jr

iTrader: (1)

We have a lot of different surfaces down here.

For a meduim traction track you'd suggest pulling both braces?

For a high traction track try running them? I usually run very worn bar codes/slicks at one particular indoor track.

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5017-...etal-anodized/

I noticed in the option parts, that the hinge pin holders only come in pairs.
Since we already have 1 on the truck (thanks for adding that), is there a plan to make the other half available separately?

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

Yep, 15t should be good to start with on either a Pro4 4600 or an SC411 5200. I've been running the same gearing on both for a while now (was 13t in my SCTE). I seem to pull a bit more power now than with the 13t on the SCTE and gain a little more speed, but I'd say it is the best starting point for anything but a wide open outdoor or really tight indoor track.