I guess I will replace the stub axles but I am scared that they will start busting like everyone else's were but hey if they go they go. I am already replacing pins like a mad man so it could only get better.....I think. Thanks man

Find me on wed night and I'll take a look at the parts for you. Try to have one of the worn out pins too for me to look at if you can.

If you haven't been doing it already, you can rotate the stub and use a different set of holes, getting a clean slate when you replace the pin and barrel.

I run the fioroni pistons and no binding. You drilled out the piston holes so they sit flush on shaft correct. I put them on the shaft loose then pull the piston all the way out then tighten the bottom cartridge cap then while pulling down on the shaft tighten the nut on top the poston. That way the piston is sitting inside the shock the way it wants as its tightened. Hope that makes sense.

Mine are the same way. I'm running Lunsford hardware on the truck so 4mm button head screws as the droop screws upside down and there ok. Have plenty of droop.

Did u send your chassis back?

Are u running the white spacers or did u leave them off? I ran them one day without and they say your suppose to use em, couldn't tell a diff in perdormance. They explained the whole 3mm vs 4mm chassis thing to me and that without them it raises the center of gravity? But guess I'm an idiot cuz i don't understand that at all. Getting the steering brace on was a little tight cuz it sits 1mm higher than the steering post with it on. I got a spacer for the motor mount and used it but the outside of the forward brace is suppose to sit down in that milled out square but it can't with the spacer, and if u wanted u could crank it down into that hole and bend the mount possibly or somethin. It opened up the hole there on me from using it like that so I took washers and ground the sides flat to put under the mount and support it. Battery screws I ground them down cuz Lunsford doesn't make em that short. I am a little worried about the pressure on the steering post and if u raise them with washers the post probably won't sit down in the milled out spot that keeps them from spinning while tightening them down. But when this chassis is shot I will be buying another one, as the truck is hooked up on a medium traction track, love it.

How tight do you guys run your steering saver on the HD saver springs ? I have my at 4.15 or so from the stock setting . Im running a Hitec 7954SH not a fast servo really just very torquey.

Do u guys know why they run washers on both sides of the ball studs? Like the ones on the Ackerman what would the washers on the bottom do? It's a trick question lol.

I went through a long and painful cogging learning experience with my old LRP's and after working with Associated found out it was from running a gear ratio that was too far off. And yes your right its the ESC. Unfortunately the ESC is usually shot after running it like this. Associated was nice enough to replace mine as they didn't inform people of this. So after you get the right motor and gearing on it if it continues to do it unfortunately the ESC is shot. And I don't know if your motor is right or wrong or if it's your gearing. Call Horizon and good luck.

Just a place to store your spare washers. Take up the space on the screw... but you can omit the washers and use a shorter screw for cleanliness or leave the stock screw in and it looks a little odd.

My collar is 7mm above the chassis but my chassis sits 1mm lower than yours so I would be at 6mm on a stock chassis. XP 1015 servo so just a regular servo and no issues for the past 7-8 months. Nice tight steering with no give from the saver under normal conditions.

Running Titanium around the whole truck so far so good. About 18 packs on truck.

Thanks, looking to get some lunsford

Ok so most guys with this truck dont use the stock setting it looks like even with the HD spring . My is tighten about half way or a little less.

My current setup. Run on an outdoor 1/8 track that is pretty smooth with big jumps and that was medium bite.

Might be worth trying with pink/yellow springs and 2.5 lighter oils for low low bite...

Looking at that setup i did try to use the outer hole on the Rear hubs with the stock middle inner hole on the tower and i could not get the Rear turnbuckle to stop getting tight even when i readjusted the camber ? I liked that hole much better on the Rear hub to but i had to go back to the middle hole on the Rear hub. Never tried the outer hole on the Front carrier though which im thinking makes the steering smoother and more grip.