17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
10-19-2013, 03:19 PM
It's always negative camber, that's why they don't specify + or -.
10-19-2013, 03:20 PM
Ok thanks
10-19-2013, 03:26 PM
No problem.
Be really gentle when drilling the big top hole. Barely any pressure and be ready for when it goes through. Its really easy to get through the plastic and the bit will go right into the threads on the other side... don't ask me how I know
Fortunately I barely got the bit into the threads about half way up so it wasn't a big deal, the shock body just cleaned the threads up when I built the shocks. Get the bottom thread or two though and it will be a pain to thread on straight.
Why have I posted so many times today??? Oh, because I'm hangin at home wrenching on a few cars and my phone keeps beeping at me
I need to work on not being a slave to the smart phone
Be really gentle when drilling the big top hole. Barely any pressure and be ready for when it goes through. Its really easy to get through the plastic and the bit will go right into the threads on the other side... don't ask me how I know
Fortunately I barely got the bit into the threads about half way up so it wasn't a big deal, the shock body just cleaned the threads up when I built the shocks. Get the bottom thread or two though and it will be a pain to thread on straight.
Why have I posted so many times today??? Oh, because I'm hangin at home wrenching on a few cars and my phone keeps beeping at me
I need to work on not being a slave to the smart phone
10-19-2013, 03:31 PM
fq06,
Do you run the Kyosho 8 x 1.3mm shock pistons? If so, which side of the piston faces towards the shock shaft? One side of the piston is flat, the other side is a little domed. From what I can tell from a Kyosho MP9 instruction manual, the domed side of the piston faces the shock shaft (faces down).
Do you run the Kyosho 8 x 1.3mm shock pistons? If so, which side of the piston faces towards the shock shaft? One side of the piston is flat, the other side is a little domed. From what I can tell from a Kyosho MP9 instruction manual, the domed side of the piston faces the shock shaft (faces down).
10-19-2013, 03:33 PM
fq06,
Do you run the Kyosho 8 x 1.3mm shock pistons? If so, which side of the piston faces towards the shock shaft? One side of the piston is flat, the other side is a little domed. From what I can tell from a Kyosho MP9 instruction manual, the domed side of the piston faces the shock shaft (faces down).
Do you run the Kyosho 8 x 1.3mm shock pistons? If so, which side of the piston faces towards the shock shaft? One side of the piston is flat, the other side is a little domed. From what I can tell from a Kyosho MP9 instruction manual, the domed side of the piston faces the shock shaft (faces down).
I'm sure someone that uses those will chime in.
10-19-2013, 03:37 PM
If somebody flips them, this is considered special and should be in notes in their setup sheet.
AKA, flat side up.
10-19-2013, 03:44 PM
10-19-2013, 03:44 PM
By default, any piston that has a shape to it will have the flat or cupped side up and the domed or pointed side down. This gives more pack with faster rebound.
If somebody flips them, this is considered special and should be in notes in their setup sheet.
AKA, flat side up.
If somebody flips them, this is considered special and should be in notes in their setup sheet.
AKA, flat side up.
10-19-2013, 04:03 PM
I was around 145 during practice with no fan.
10-19-2013, 04:06 PM
No problem.
Be really gentle when drilling the big top hole. Barely any pressure and be ready for when it goes through. Its really easy to get through the plastic and the bit will go right into the threads on the other side... don't ask me how I know
Fortunately I barely got the bit into the threads about half way up so it wasn't a big deal, the shock body just cleaned the threads up when I built the shocks. Get the bottom thread or two though and it will be a pain to thread on straight.
Why have I posted so many times today??? Oh, because I'm hangin at home wrenching on a few cars and my phone keeps beeping at me I need to work on not being a slave to the smart phone
Be really gentle when drilling the big top hole. Barely any pressure and be ready for when it goes through. Its really easy to get through the plastic and the bit will go right into the threads on the other side... don't ask me how I know
Fortunately I barely got the bit into the threads about half way up so it wasn't a big deal, the shock body just cleaned the threads up when I built the shocks. Get the bottom thread or two though and it will be a pain to thread on straight.
Why have I posted so many times today??? Oh, because I'm hangin at home wrenching on a few cars and my phone keeps beeping at me
I need to work on not being a slave to the smart phone
10-19-2013, 04:22 PM
(You only need to drill one per cap, not both.)
10-19-2013, 04:29 PM
10-19-2013, 05:26 PM
Tech Initiate
I've been cutting and using a piece of fuel line tubing cut a little longer than the bushing. It lasts forever and works great.
10-19-2013, 06:26 PM
This is the car I bought. I didnt even check any of the specs on it and just gave it a run to see how it did from how the person had it set up.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-upgrades.html
10-19-2013, 07:02 PM
I let go of the throttle right before I hit the top of the jump.
This is the car I bought. I didnt even check any of the specs on it and just gave it a run to see how it did from how the person had it set up.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-upgrades.html
This is the car I bought. I didnt even check any of the specs on it and just gave it a run to see how it did from how the person had it set up.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-upgrades.html