Team Durango DEX408T truggy
#707
It's ridiculous that there's no part support for a great truggy....many have changed manufacturers because of this but they would rather have kept their DEX408T's
#708
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Thank you,
I appreciate it.
I sent him a message.
I appreciate it.
I sent him a message.
Post here and see if Ryan Lutz can help you..http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...evolution.html
It's ridiculous that there's no part support for a great truggy....many have changed manufacturers because of this but they would rather have kept their DEX408T's
It's ridiculous that there's no part support for a great truggy....many have changed manufacturers because of this but they would rather have kept their DEX408T's
#709
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
hey, so I'm looking for stiffer springs for my 408t. The track I run has a lot of big jumps, and yesterday I was having trouble on take-offs. I would "smack" into the jump face and pop up in the air. I used to over-shoot the triple, but yesterday I was just clearing the double, with ridiculous (bad) hang time.
I think that is partially due to 10+ degrees warmer temps outside making my shock oil thinner... And now I'm thinking stiffer springs to go with thicker shock oil?
I have the stiffest Durango white springs in front, and second stiffest in rear. And I've been running 50wt shock oil with fioroni variable pistons.
I think previously I was depending on the action of the pistons when jumping instead of the stiffness of the springs. But yesterday the warmer temps made the shock oil thinner, reduced the variable effect of those pistons? That makes sense to me....
I would rather run stiffer springs than constantly change shock oil when temps change...but what springs? I did a little searching, but it seems spring ratings are hard to compare between brands.
So what non-durango (i.e. stiffer than durango) springs are working?
I think that is partially due to 10+ degrees warmer temps outside making my shock oil thinner... And now I'm thinking stiffer springs to go with thicker shock oil?
I have the stiffest Durango white springs in front, and second stiffest in rear. And I've been running 50wt shock oil with fioroni variable pistons.
I think previously I was depending on the action of the pistons when jumping instead of the stiffness of the springs. But yesterday the warmer temps made the shock oil thinner, reduced the variable effect of those pistons? That makes sense to me....
I would rather run stiffer springs than constantly change shock oil when temps change...but what springs? I did a little searching, but it seems spring ratings are hard to compare between brands.
So what non-durango (i.e. stiffer than durango) springs are working?
#711
What does putting shocks on the backside of A arm do on the rear?
#712
Has anybody converted there dnx408t to e. Does the e motor mount work? I know rc monster n integy have kits. I used the integy now after a year I'm having issues would like other options Thanks
#714
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Has anybody else had a problem with shock diaphragms getting punctured?
I just started to rebuild the shocks on my 408T, and found that all 4 shock diaphragms were punctured. There is a small circle cut into the rubber on the back of each diaphragm. It appears to match a small hole on the inside of the shock cap.
I'm running the stock shock caps, NOT the vented caps. I had 35k losi oil, 6x1.3mm pistons (fioroni).
I suppose I can fill that hole in the shock cap with JB weld to prevent it from happening again, but....
Has anybody else experienced this? Does it just happen, or did I make some rookie mistake when building my shocks? Awhile back someone else posted about a hole in their shock diaphragm...maybe it was the same thing?
I just started to rebuild the shocks on my 408T, and found that all 4 shock diaphragms were punctured. There is a small circle cut into the rubber on the back of each diaphragm. It appears to match a small hole on the inside of the shock cap.
I'm running the stock shock caps, NOT the vented caps. I had 35k losi oil, 6x1.3mm pistons (fioroni).
I suppose I can fill that hole in the shock cap with JB weld to prevent it from happening again, but....
Has anybody else experienced this? Does it just happen, or did I make some rookie mistake when building my shocks? Awhile back someone else posted about a hole in their shock diaphragm...maybe it was the same thing?
#718
Tech Elite
iTrader: (131)
i'm not sure there is much anyone can do to help prevent it though. The truggy's especially see a lot of force at the joints and then dirt gets in there are just digs it out. You might try some kind of dry lubricant but that's all I can think of that would help. Maybe running different ball joint too
#719
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
It's a fairly common thing with all of Durango's 1/8th's since the DNX408 launched almost 3 years ago. There is two ways to fix the insert slop. First and easiest would be to use red locktite or CA glue, and bond the inserts to the ackerman. Probably would be better with fresh parts instead of already sloppy parts.
The second would be to do the 'bearing mod.' Tobamiester has a great writeup;
http://teamtobamiester.wordpress.com...-ackerman-fix/
The second would be to do the 'bearing mod.' Tobamiester has a great writeup;
http://teamtobamiester.wordpress.com...-ackerman-fix/
#720
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
Shawn_S you the man!! The guy I bought my v1 from had this mod in place but I could never find out what bearing he used when 1 of them got lost during maintenance! The steering was so much tighter with that mod than with the stock pieces. I'll get the parts I need and get it in place on both vehicles! Thanks again!!
It's a fairly common thing with all of Durango's 1/8th's since the DNX408 launched almost 3 years ago. There is two ways to fix the insert slop. First and easiest would be to use red locktite or CA glue, and bond the inserts to the ackerman. Probably would be better with fresh parts instead of already sloppy parts.
The second would be to do the 'bearing mod.' Tobamiester has a great writeup;
http://teamtobamiester.wordpress.com...-ackerman-fix/
The second would be to do the 'bearing mod.' Tobamiester has a great writeup;
http://teamtobamiester.wordpress.com...-ackerman-fix/