Mxer59

iTrader: (114)

I'm at 20% end bell timing, I was running 72-34 on my b4.1 WC (not sure if gear ratios between both cars are different) but I want a little more bottem grunt for out of corner double. Med to low traction- with loose dirt top soil. Tire of choice is Jc goosebumps or pro Tazers

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

Mxer,

That gearing is fine...The biggest you can fit is a 33 pinion with an AE 72 spur without dremeling the motor plate. The motor timing is very low, turn it up to around 35 degrees and check your temps after a couple of minutes.

I run a Schuur Speed at 33/72 with 40 degrees of timing and its supa fast !!

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

The new Tekin Redline 2 motors are very fast ( read high rpm) and they need to be geared a little lower. 29/32 should be fine with 30 degrees of timing to be equivalent to most competitive stock motors.

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

Proline is working on a body, but it is cab forward. You can run your old rb5 body with some trimming as well. All new bodies will be cab forward and have much better handling than the older bodies.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You don't tune for heat.. you tune for lap times, WITH a temp limit.

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

+1

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Let me clarify... sorry if i was a bit vague. Here is a prime example.. I will use myself.

I have my gearing set to THEE sweet spot for the gear I run, and my track. I run

Fantom Apex 17.5
12.5 HT rotor
maxed end bell timing
31/69
~120 after 8 minutes

The car is SUPER fast for a 17.5. It has the perfect balance of rip in the infield, and pulling speed down the straight. On COUNTLESS occasions, and at multple tracks (albeit similiar sized tracks). I have gone down to 30/69, and tried 32/69. Going up one tooth or down one tooth hurts my laptimes. Either I max out too early on the straight and loose my pulling power, or gearing up looses a bit too much of the infield rip that I need. So, since I am WAY under the heat limit, heat doesn't even come into play in my gearing. Gear UP until my motor is coming off at 160 (Gearing for heat), would certainly decrease performance on the race clock.

There is newer guy at my track who runs 17.5 SC, and was worried that his motor was coming off too cool.. so he geared up 2 extra teeth... and his lap times were no better at all... but he was coming off hotter. So where he gained on the straight, he was then losing in the infield on the tight sections of the track. It is a net loss.

Now, that doesn't mean that for YOU, and YOUR gear, and YOUR track... wont get the best lap times geared tall and up against the heat limit. That very well may be the case.

So gear for performance/lap times... as long as it is under the heat limit. If the best performance keeps you coming off the track at 180 degrees, you need to gear down to save on temp, and find another way to improve your lap times. (smoother throttle, smoother brake, better cornerspeed, etc).

Just my $.02! Hope that makes more sense.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

Yes, this is how I currently gear too. However, I was toying with the idea of gearing slightly down and increasing timing for more top end rpm, or vice versa - gearing slightly up, then decreasing timing for slightly more torque (although I suspect the torque gains here would be less than regearing). It would potentially be a more fine tuning than gearing up/down (even though this is fine enough).

Alternatively, what I want to think about is why your timing is maxed out.

This is all stemming from me being stupid, blowing up my Ion3 and putting in a Xerun 17.5 locked timing I had sitting around, which came off @5m cold @69/34. Waiting for new reedy motor...

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

in some regards, how tall or short you gear your motor is kind of synonymous with how much endbell timing you run. I get similar results (less torque, more top end) by gearing up OR turning up the end bell timing. Some motors seem to run better geared taller with less timing, some run better geared lower, with MORE timing. The Fantom APEX loves the endbell timing, which is where the top end comes from. I fine tune the motor's response from there, with gearing. It's give and take with both settings.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

So how many guys have moved from heavier full sized lipos, to lighter or shorty lipos? I have been running my Fantom 6500 65c Lipos in this car since day 1, and as fantastic as the car is, it just "felt" too heavy on the track.

This last weekend I decided to run shorties for the day, and MAN what a difference! I did some weighing, and with my 6500s, the car was 200 grams over weight with a full sized BLS351 servo. With the a shorty, I was only 100 grams over weight and it made all the difference in the world. Car was snappier, responded better in all regards (throttle, braking, and turning), and it made a noticeable difference in lap times, first time on the track. I ran the shorty dead smack in the middle of where the full sized pack sat to keep the F to R weight bias about the same... worked perfect.

I can't see me ever going back to a heavy ~300gram pack ever again in this car. Im going to stick with the ~200. Needless to say, I immediately put an order in for a pair of Fantom 4500 shorties. Can't wait to get more track time in the newer lighter set up. -YMMV

sipaboy

iTrader: (62)

I like mine with shorties too.

fastestwon

iTrader: (15)

i have been running shorty packs pretty much from day one . i tried the long battery once just to see . short packs way better

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

has anyone put on the exotek shock post? any issues with metal/metal contact? pictures?

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

I also have run the short pack in mine. All of the Kyosho drivers at West Coast are all running the shorty.

x7tristan

Hey guys I'm having trouble understanding how all the tuning shims and inserts work. Is there a simple chart like the one for the FS2, that explains how the suspension shims/inserts affect the kick up/anti squat/rear toe?