Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Yep, the 1/8 and 1/10 scale cars run on the same track.
On race days, certain parts of the track are cordoned off for the 1/10 scale cars. These are usually the bigger jumping sections.
Other races will just feature makeshift tracks in parking lots or rec centres.
On race days, certain parts of the track are cordoned off for the 1/10 scale cars. These are usually the bigger jumping sections.
Other races will just feature makeshift tracks in parking lots or rec centres.
Tech Prophet
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Yep, the 1/8 and 1/10 scale cars run on the same track.
On race days, certain parts of the track are cordoned off for the 1/10 scale cars. These are usually the bigger jumping sections.
Other races will just feature makeshift tracks in parking lots or rec centres.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk737ZfjZO4&t=42s
On race days, certain parts of the track are cordoned off for the 1/10 scale cars. These are usually the bigger jumping sections.
Other races will just feature makeshift tracks in parking lots or rec centres.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk737ZfjZO4&t=42s
Tech Regular
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Had a tough day at the track today.
It was super grippy and I struggled to get the car to turn in. I think 5000 weight diff oil might be a bit too heavy as the rear power is overpowering whatever grip the front tyres had.
I reverted back to the stock tyres later in the day to keep the competition tyres fresher when I have time to properly practice. Car was undrivable with stock tyres.
Shocks are holding up well. No leaking and haven't popped any shock caps off despite some bad crashes. The stock motor gets way too hot for my track so I will probably have to think about regearing. What is a good set up for 17.5 blinky gearing?
It was super grippy and I struggled to get the car to turn in. I think 5000 weight diff oil might be a bit too heavy as the rear power is overpowering whatever grip the front tyres had.
I reverted back to the stock tyres later in the day to keep the competition tyres fresher when I have time to properly practice. Car was undrivable with stock tyres.
Shocks are holding up well. No leaking and haven't popped any shock caps off despite some bad crashes. The stock motor gets way too hot for my track so I will probably have to think about regearing. What is a good set up for 17.5 blinky gearing?
- The stock tyres are undriveable
- The stock motor is fast, but gets way too hot. The car comes with a 76 Spur and 24 pinion I believe. Drop the pinion to 21 or 22 and measure temp.
The offroad track is and will be closed for repairs and maintenance until the end of July for a nitro 1/8 buggy race so the RB6.6 will have some downtime.
Decided to give it a new paintjob. I did not like the RTR look but did not want to buy a new cover so I painted over the stock shell that came with it. I quite like the result. WIll get a proper body once my budget clears as I'm also preparing for the 1/8 buggy race.
I haven't been able to run the RB6.6 with other 2wd buggies here to benchmark its performance as everyone is busy testing their 1/8 cars. Doesn't help that 2wd EP buggy is the least popular race class here in Brunei.
Decided to give it a new paintjob. I did not like the RTR look but did not want to buy a new cover so I painted over the stock shell that came with it. I quite like the result. WIll get a proper body once my budget clears as I'm also preparing for the 1/8 buggy race.
I haven't been able to run the RB6.6 with other 2wd buggies here to benchmark its performance as everyone is busy testing their 1/8 cars. Doesn't help that 2wd EP buggy is the least popular race class here in Brunei.
Hello beautiful people of rctech. I think I've got the electronics of the car kind of figured out.
The stock motor ran too hot so I installed whatever system I had lying around (i did not want to spend any money). It's currently on an old hobbywing ezrun blinky esc and an lrp 11.5 turn motor. I'm happy with the power and speed but it would have been perfect if I could use a 32 tooth pinion. The largest I could use was 30... unless I switch to a smaller spur.
I have a question though. How do u install a fan with the body on. My body obstructs the airflow. Doesnt this defeat the purpose of a fan? I've attached photos but please ignore the poor wiring and soldering job. At this point I'm still figuring out where everything goes.
Thanks and I appreciate all help provided.
Cheers
The stock motor ran too hot so I installed whatever system I had lying around (i did not want to spend any money). It's currently on an old hobbywing ezrun blinky esc and an lrp 11.5 turn motor. I'm happy with the power and speed but it would have been perfect if I could use a 32 tooth pinion. The largest I could use was 30... unless I switch to a smaller spur.
I have a question though. How do u install a fan with the body on. My body obstructs the airflow. Doesnt this defeat the purpose of a fan? I've attached photos but please ignore the poor wiring and soldering job. At this point I'm still figuring out where everything goes.
Thanks and I appreciate all help provided.
Cheers
Tech Prophet
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Mine arrived the other day. Too much rain to try running yet.
Tech Elite
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I am selling a huge lot of NIP Kyosho parts for the RB6, RB6.6, and RB7 Lines of buggies. Check it out here.
Huge NIP Kyosho Parts Lot RB6, RB6.6, RB7
Huge NIP Kyosho Parts Lot RB6, RB6.6, RB7
Tech Prophet
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Hello, beautiful people of Rctech,
I am looking to get back into RC racing and have set my sights on the RTR version of the Ultima 6.6. I was a Kyosho driver and I would like to get back into this class with one of their offerings.
I have had quite a bit of experience racing so I am aware that the RTR versions usually have some limitations but I just can't afford a full race package right now. I do have a few questions about how this will hold up though.
What are the main disadvantages of the RTR kit (minus electronics). I am worried about the plastic shocks and the shock caps popping off... how big of an issue is this, Can this car take a hard knock and continue to race? or would a race incident see me retire every time? How much less durable is it compared to the kit version?
I'm thinking the parts would be mostly interchangeable but are there any curveballs that I should be aware of? Anyone raced one of these yet and how does it compare in terms of race capabilities to the kit version.
I think my major concerns are just durability. I will be replacing the electronics with a Savox servo, LRP flow ESC and an orion 17.5 turn motor immediately. Also my batts are a bit puffed. Will they still fit this car?
Thanks. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Have a good one.
I am looking to get back into RC racing and have set my sights on the RTR version of the Ultima 6.6. I was a Kyosho driver and I would like to get back into this class with one of their offerings.
I have had quite a bit of experience racing so I am aware that the RTR versions usually have some limitations but I just can't afford a full race package right now. I do have a few questions about how this will hold up though.
What are the main disadvantages of the RTR kit (minus electronics). I am worried about the plastic shocks and the shock caps popping off... how big of an issue is this, Can this car take a hard knock and continue to race? or would a race incident see me retire every time? How much less durable is it compared to the kit version?
I'm thinking the parts would be mostly interchangeable but are there any curveballs that I should be aware of? Anyone raced one of these yet and how does it compare in terms of race capabilities to the kit version.
I think my major concerns are just durability. I will be replacing the electronics with a Savox servo, LRP flow ESC and an orion 17.5 turn motor immediately. Also my batts are a bit puffed. Will they still fit this car?
Thanks. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Have a good one.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
don’t bother messing with the rtr. It’s a composite chassis,cheap shocks,camber links,gear diff. All those upgrades will cost more than just getting a roller. Not to mention rtr electronics are junk so plan on replacing motor,esc and servo too. My RB. 6.6 is bulletproof man I love this car.
To your point, the weakest areas are indeed the shocks (needs aluminum caps at the minimum) and the servo (will need to be replaced very quickly). But the chassis is aluminum, and the motor is actually quite fast as long as you don't mind it being brushed.
Thanks for the replies,
Yep I've bought it already hahaha. And it's been good so far. Nothing has blown me away but nothing has really disappointed me either.
Electronics are no big deal as I have spares all around. I also have spare camber links in my pit bags. Shocks are a huge question mark for me at this point but I do prefer gear diffs to ball diffs. I'm a set it and forget it kind of guy and ball diffs require a bit more attention than I would like.
This will be the fifth class I'll be racing in so I did not want to spend much on a pro kit. The second hand cars are cheap on the buy and sell section here but non of them will ship to where I'm at. And it had to be Kyosho because of the LHS support.
A pro kit here will set me back $450 USD which is way too much for something I'll race with maybe twice a year. The readyset was sold to me for $200 USD and it checked all the boxes but I would be lying if i said i wasn't worried about durability issues.
I'll probably find out once I start racing it in July.
Hopefully I can finish the race and be competitive. WIll be ordering RB7 spares (arms, knuckles and such) in the meantime... is this a good idea or should I keep with the 6.6 stuff?
Yep I've bought it already hahaha. And it's been good so far. Nothing has blown me away but nothing has really disappointed me either.
Electronics are no big deal as I have spares all around. I also have spare camber links in my pit bags. Shocks are a huge question mark for me at this point but I do prefer gear diffs to ball diffs. I'm a set it and forget it kind of guy and ball diffs require a bit more attention than I would like.
This will be the fifth class I'll be racing in so I did not want to spend much on a pro kit. The second hand cars are cheap on the buy and sell section here but non of them will ship to where I'm at. And it had to be Kyosho because of the LHS support.
A pro kit here will set me back $450 USD which is way too much for something I'll race with maybe twice a year. The readyset was sold to me for $200 USD and it checked all the boxes but I would be lying if i said i wasn't worried about durability issues.
I'll probably find out once I start racing it in July.
Hopefully I can finish the race and be competitive. WIll be ordering RB7 spares (arms, knuckles and such) in the meantime... is this a good idea or should I keep with the 6.6 stuff?
Last edited by tak4; 06-03-2019 at 11:29 PM.
Tech Prophet
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Tech Regular
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Yes, definitely go for RB7 spares. This way little by little your car naturally gets upgraded to the latest version.
Tech Prophet
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#3. Jump practice