ashxxx

iTrader: (137)

Dumb question. Moved upper camber link to the middle of bulkhead was outside will I have to adjust lower tierods also. Can't seem to get it centered back up .

cnelson3

iTrader: (66)

it increased the amount of droop the arms have if he is still running the standard front shock tower. The fronts arms will hang lower basically. it does a couple things. on acceleration, the chassis can rise more in the front which transfers weight backwards more. When the car is leaning in a corner, it will allow the car to lean over further. And it should absorb bumps and landings better. The down side is that if you don't add weight to the front end, it will cause an on power push. I have been trying these setups lately and noticed the key to making the extra front droop work is the extra weight with the aluminum or brass front suspension mount added.

It does change suspension travel though. It actually reduces the vertical travel to 19mm from roughly 20mm with the medium eyelets.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Sorry, I am to busy testing durability of the components on the car and the pipes at the track. So far, both have been holding up well.

SoCalMX

iTrader: (5)

So my mid motor will show up on Thursday "BUT" found a local guy selling a newly built rear motor complete with Tekin Gen 2 ESC, Gen 2 10.5 motor, Spektrum 6040 servo, many aluminum and carbon upgrades too from Kyosho, Lunsford and Exotek. Seems nothing is stock on this thing, ready to run with hardly a scratch and a huge parts bag all for a whopping $330!

So by Thursday I will have 2 like new 'ready to run' cars, one mid motor one rear all for $680. I will try them both and sell the one I don't want!

cnelson3

iTrader: (66)

I did the same measurements with the kick up and I'm getting a little over 2* with the half millimeter shims. I not an engineer so I may be doing something wrong but some of this makes sense when compared to other cars. After a local fast guy told me that a different manufacturer accidentally thought something was 3* when the actual cad drawing proved 2.6*, I thought I would try measuring my stuff just to double check.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Hmm...I wonder if a setup station is needed.

I think in the long run that when you find something that works on your car as good as it is now, you will write it down. Then when you try something else and it doesn't work as good you will go back to what you originally wrote down thinking it was 3 degrees rather than installing the parts it would take to get the measured 3 degrees.

Oh, btw, everyone on tech is an engineer. Just a different type.

glenng

iTrader: (1)

2.5mm ideally

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Car last night at LRH was just sick. Running slicks on the fresh tacky clay was insane. Mid-,Motor stock with no light weight anything, and the car was out accelerating 3 gear B5Ms.

mjbtaco

iTrader: (5)

im pulling all the lightweight stuff out of mine and changing the battery layout. i hated my car at ocrc.

beedee

iTrader: (9)

love my mm rb6 at ocrc!

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

What are you changing it back to?

nitro2be

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I have the rtr rb6 I bought last year.ive been upgrading it slowly. Servo, receiver, steering rack, turn buckles, shock caps, body,wing, now motor and esc..going LRP 8.5 and my question is being a gear diff what fluid would you run and any suggestions on slipper? I'm thinking 3 to 4k

mjbtaco

iTrader: (5)

I'm gonna run the shorty sideways. I tried inline in my b5m and wasn't a fan. Figured since most people run inline on the rb6 that's what I would start out with. My car was extremely twitchy with a pretty standard ocrc setup for the rb6.

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

Wouldn't making changes to the cars setup, front tires, etc, be more beneficial than heavily modifying the car?

mjbtaco

iTrader: (5)

I already changed pistons, oils, springs, tires, etc etc. I'm not heavily modifying the car just turning the battery sideways. It's been done plenty of times already.

And the car is under weight so I'm just removing the puck system.