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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-07-2014, 04:12 PM
  #10696  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
I'm working with Kevin on the narrower rear blocks. Should have designs done shortly. We'll do a small run initially to test then get into production depending on demand. To give you an idea, the blocks will be designed to use the existing RB6 rear pills and when using A/A with the new blocks it will be about 2mm narrower than Din/Din.
Will u be creating a block for rear motor as well? Or is this strictly designed to work with mm only?
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:12 PM
  #10697  
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Very cool, will look for those blocks for the winter series at Delta. For now with sugar tracks, we need to remove rear traction from the rb6 lolz .
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:49 PM
  #10698  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Will u be creating a block for rear motor as well? Or is this strictly designed to work with mm only?
For now just MM as that's all we run in SoCal. But if there's enough demand for RM hangers it's certainly possible. We're strictly in the design phase now, still need to prototype, test, then produce.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:58 PM
  #10699  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Yup. When I used the drill press on Saturday I noticed a nice difference. I was also on 1.6x2 and 30 with golds. My buddy also ran the arms in his main so we could get more feed back and really liked the new hole.

Have you tried the new hole plus inside on the tower?

I'm also D-in on both.
I'm running D in front/ back, my son and I haven't tried new hole plus inner shock tower mount. I know Zack was going to start messing around with it a lot more after the surf city.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:49 AM
  #10700  
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AZRC4Me,
You can count me in for a set. If you need testers hit me up. Thanks for taking on this design task too.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:02 AM
  #10701  
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Guys? How much further in do you drill the new holes?
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:36 AM
  #10702  
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Originally Posted by nitroargi
Guys? How much further in do you drill the new holes?
I have done it in two different spots, flip the arm to the single hole side and measure 4mm towards the outdrive on center. I've also measured 17.5mm out from the sway bar hole. Its all trial and error right now. Hopefully if this proves to be an advantage maybe Kyosho can make us some arms.
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:12 AM
  #10703  
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Hey guys, found this.... anyone using it yet?

http://2wdmod.com/2014/08/09/schelle...k-closer-look/
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Old 08-09-2014, 09:58 PM
  #10704  
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Originally Posted by sir_thomas
Hey guys, found this.... anyone using it yet?

http://2wdmod.com/2014/08/09/schelle...k-closer-look/
I've been running it for a month or so. I really like the outer holes. Smooths out the ackerman curve for me.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:04 PM
  #10705  
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Im running on a low traction track and have been using the 521-1 arms in Rear motor. Im curious to see if I switch the the Gull wing arms will I notice a difference.
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Old 08-11-2014, 12:34 PM
  #10706  
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Has anyone checked the weight balance front to rear with the shorty back and esc forward versus the esc between the motor and shorty? I was told that at least with the Orion esc, the shorty/esc/motor configuration is more weight back than the esc/shorty/motor configuration.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:49 PM
  #10707  
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I've tried mine various ways and the battery back is always more weight, even with the Orion.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:51 PM
  #10708  
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Here's the latest setup I've been running with the rear arm mod.

Still some tuning to do but it feels pretty food with this so far.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ust%202014.pdf
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:27 AM
  #10709  
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Originally Posted by K_King

feels pretty food with this so far.
Mmmm food
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:54 AM
  #10710  
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Originally Posted by K_King
I've tried mine various ways and the battery back is always more weight, even with the Orion.
Yep. Battery back will give you more rear weight. Also, if you want more rear weight, make sure you remove the rear battery holder, add some stops in front of the motor and slide the battery in under the waterfall brace. If you are trying to increase rear weight bias, you can also move the front and rear hubs all the way forward and remove as much weight as you can from the front of the car (shorty servo, alu axles, Ti Turnbuckles, ball-studs, hinge pins etc).

I managed to get my RB6 MM weight bias to 35.6% front / 64.4% rear whilst still hitting minimum weight.
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