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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-10-2014, 07:52 PM   #10096
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Originally Posted by Holmberg418 View Post
Width
I thought that is what C- out or D-out did... What is the difference between D-in, C-in and so forth.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:31 PM   #10097
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Yes, AE spur's work fine. What motor are you running? What are you geared now?
I'm not sure about the pinion, but the spur should be 76t
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:36 PM   #10098
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Well if I don't need any parts then even better lol. I have the new alum rf hanger I'll get the alum rr hanger. What pills are you running for narrow? For rm I ran the c pill with holes facing away from chassis. I thought about weight kit but the way I see it what's the point of running weight on rear might as well run rm. But for 17.5 I figured I might need the weight kit or run a shorty up against the motor sideways to get some Wright more to the back rather then buy the weight kit
Don't complicate things. If you want to run mid motor just swap it over and go drive it. You can have a perfectly good working buggy without buying anything believe it or not.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:46 PM   #10099
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Originally Posted by Wattsup23 View Post
I thought that is what C- out or D-out did... What is the difference between D-in, C-in and so forth.
I have not measured this but at a glance this is what it looks like to me:
A is centered
B off center .5mm
C off center 1mm
D off center 1.5mm

so the difference between D in and D out would be 3mm on each side or 6mm total track width.

Every change of a letter is .5deg or rear toe, this is on the chart provided with the hangers.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:18 PM   #10100
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If I switch to mid motor will my body still work or will I need to buy a new one?
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:26 PM   #10101
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If I switch to mid motor will my body still work or will I need to buy a new one?
Just have to trim the back a lil
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:27 PM   #10102
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Originally Posted by Wattsup23 View Post
I thought that is what C- out or D-out did... What is the difference between D-in, C-in and so forth.
Hope this helps.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:00 AM   #10103
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So I ran my rb6 for the 3rd race and am getting beat bad by mm cars. I'm going to try mm. I have the stock chassis and some alum upgrades. Is there anything needed as far as upgrades for mm? Is the cf rear tower help/nessasary? And is the weight kit needed? Was looking at the tresery 2 peice mm rear bulkhead does it accept the weight kit? Does the original kit mm bulkhead accept the weight kit? I'm running 17.5 indoor small tight med grip track
The fastest stock buggy at your track is a rear motor car……..

Rear motor setup for YOUR track is kit springs, Red rear/pink front, the 4 hole pistons, P/N W5303-11, with losi 27.5 oil all around to start. Some guys like to start with losi 30 in the front. If you have both the umw705 and umw706 i wound start with B out on both. Bar codes(CLAY) with aka foams in the rear. Bar codes(CLAY) in the front with your choice of foam, 3/4 rear for more steering or aka for a little more push. Speedo in the hole beneath the shock tower. Shorty just in front of that. Diff needs to be butter. It really makes a difference.

If you really want to run mid Randy has the newest rear bulkhead on order if not there. Then you need to go D-in on umw705 and get umw707 D-in as well. I am not running any rear weight on my car right now because it had a real bad push with weight.

IMO The best thing you can do is put the rear setup above on it a drive it. Practice is better than any setup until you get consistent 19's with a 17.5.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:55 AM   #10104
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It was interesting to see at one of the local tracks near me yesterday that everyone in sportsman buggy was running MM and everyone in expert buggy was running RM. Med-Medhigh traction clay.

I'm thinking of switching back to RM just cause it would seem more versatile since the 3 closest tracks are all different (clay, outdoor bluegroove, outdoor damp loam)
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:07 AM   #10105
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Originally Posted by AlwaysLOSI View Post
The fastest stock buggy at your track is a rear motor car……..

Rear motor setup for YOUR track is kit springs, Red rear/pink front, the 4 hole pistons, P/N W5303-11, with losi 27.5 oil all around to start. Some guys like to start with losi 30 in the front. If you have both the umw705 and umw706 i wound start with B out on both. Bar codes(CLAY) with aka foams in the rear. Bar codes(CLAY) in the front with your choice of foam, 3/4 rear for more steering or aka for a little more push. Speedo in the hole beneath the shock tower. Shorty just in front of that. Diff needs to be butter. It really makes a difference.

If you really want to run mid Randy has the newest rear bulkhead on order if not there. Then you need to go D-in on umw705 and get umw707 D-in as well. I am not running any rear weight on my car right now because it had a real bad push with weight.

IMO The best thing you can do is put the rear setup above on it a drive it. Practice is better than any setup until you get consistent 19's with a 17.5.
I'm running 32.5/30 with avid 1.4x4 pistons. Kit springs and c out I'll try d out next then. I'm running Clay codes rear aka reds and suburbs open front. Riley set my diff last race. My only gripe with rm is I hardly have any off power steering going in the sweep is good just infield it corners wide unless I tap the brakes to get the rear loose otherwise it wants to push though the corners. I bumped up from b to a last Friday behind shay we were close but as long as he kept it together on the infield he could take the corners like a dart as we're I had to really work the car into the corners. This is why I was considering mm.
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Last edited by socal23; 03-11-2014 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:36 AM   #10106
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I'm running 32.5/30 with avid 1.4x4 pistons. Kit springs and c out I'll try d out next then. I'm running Clay codes rear aka reds and suburbs open front. Riley set my diff last race. My only gripe with rm is I hardly have any off power steering going in the sweep is good just infield it corners wide unless I tap the brakes to get the rear loose otherwise it wants to push though the corners. I bumped up from b to a last Friday behind shay we were close but as long as he kept it together on the infield he could take the corners like a dart as we're I had to really work the car into the corners. This is why I was considering mm.

Its kind of give and take right now at our track with RM/ MM. MM is definitely faster through the first sweeper but after that its 50/50. MM should be able to carry more speed through the corners but with so many 180* turns the RM should be able to more power to the ground quicker. Like Alwayslosi said, look at the fastest guys right now in mod and stock, both RM, Im just holding out till the misters go in. There are only 3 MM in mod right now, I know there will be two more after the watering system, in stock you have 3 as well. Im guessing that will all change. One thing is for sure, its going to be humid as hell in there this summer, especially out there marshaling.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:11 AM   #10107
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hey guys just ordered my rb6 and read the first page and all but still unclear if there are any parts/upgrades I should buy immediately?
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:27 AM   #10108
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How dose the rb6 handle the bigger outdoor tracks?
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:28 AM   #10109
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At the very minimum get the aluminum steering rack set.

next would be the aluminum rear suspension hangers, I only broke one of the plastic ones in the first 3 months before i went aluminum so not to big of a rush there imo but all the adjustability of the inserts are nice to have.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:36 AM   #10110
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At the very minimum get the aluminum steering rack set.

next would be the aluminum rear suspension hangers, I only broke one of the plastic ones in the first 3 months before i went aluminum so not to big of a rush there imo but all the adjustability of the inserts are nice to have.
it does not come w aluminum rack? do u recommend the JC over the exotek or another brand or all the same?
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