jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

I find it easy to use as it includes the programmer. If you get it you'll want to update the programmer and the ESC to the lastest firmware for Modified Off-Road. Everything to complete that upgrade in included in the box plus downloading some free software from SP. Nothing extra to buy. If you get one I'll provide you my setup. I currently use a Orion 7.5. The feel of the brakes are what I like best about the ESC.

I've not had any heat issues or anything negative. Yes the size is marginally bigger than some others but the switch is built in. If you included the size of external switches with the foot print of others you will have about the same overall foot print.

But really the performance of the the SP vs Orion vs something else are all very close. Pick the one you like and go with it and learn it well. They all have their negatives,

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

It's gotta be outboard toe change inserts, considering the v1s don't wear at all. Would be cool if you can do 3, 3.25, 3.5, etc.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

how do you change the toe on the rb6? Hubs?

ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

I don't know about the revention pro but I just tried a lrp in my buggy, and loved it so much that I bought another one for my truck! The smoothest Esc I've ever used out of tekin, viper and orca. And the easiest to program. Honestly didn't change any of the settings out if the box except for break.
Someday I will try Orion/Hobbywing but not right now

Raced the car in rear motor config last night and it was great. I could get on power sooner and harder out of the corner. Beat my fastest lap time of all and bumped into the a-main. I am stoked! Going to stay with rear motor for a while this time. I need to tune and get this car faster and a bit more stable in the sweeper. Other than that it feels great. Im Back to the b.collins setup.

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

Seems so:

UMW704-02

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/newparts.html

RodneyB

iTrader: (7)

Not too bad of wear on the buggy I suppose (it is a big stretch to say they don't wear at all) but on the SCT they wear alarmingly fast around the bearings. And this type of wear leads to inconsistent feel on the track in my experience.

Looks like this will help with a replaceable insert.

lewis4x4

iTrader: (8)

I don't have any secret insight to what I said, I just know that Kyosho has used bushings in the past and cleary researching them, you can see what they are moving towards. I know that the TKI3 uses blue bearing holders and they hold up great. They just hold the bearing so there is not much going on there that can cause wearing. At least I don't think so. I can promise this, if Kyosho made it, it will work...

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

I don't like the idea of having to maintain yet another part of the car but if the alum hubs develop slop then the replacement plastic tree is welcomed. Cheers,

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Hmm this is a step in the right direction I suppose. The xray cars also have plastic bushings in the aluminum hubs front and rear. I have never had them wear out. The wear part is always the bearing which gets gritty. They have a support part at the end whic is just bushings so I am assuming it will be cheap to keep it in tip top shape..

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I love it. I am just glad I didn't buy the alum .5 hubs LOL. I have the gunmetal 0's now.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

OOh wait I thought we could change toe with it. If its just the same old 0 inserts then I don't see the point, I would rather put even bigger bearings in there than plastic bushings.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

That is how I understand what they are trying to say. You still have to change the hubs to get different degree's of toe. Otherwise why would the hub still be marked with a 0 on it? You now have the bushing separating the hub from the bearing.

Could a rear hub similar to this handle inserts in the lower hinge pin to handle different degree's of toe? Similar to how you can change the front hubs caster angle.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Looks to me to be 3 different size inserts for the outer bearing?

SimonW

Try putting the RF block in the front for Mid motor and keep the RR2, it will give you 4deg toe inboard no more alloy hubs. Just try it, it doesn't take long and let me know how it went

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Inboard toe of 4. Does it bind your hinge pins up? Is the arm action smooth without the shock attached?