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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-10-2013, 02:40 PM
  #5581  
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Originally Posted by motorhead68
hi, whats the purpose of the 521 1 arms? more traction or corner speed?? thanks
The flat/rear arms UM521, UM521-1 or UM566 work best on higher traction layouts. They lock the rear end in more and provide a more consistent feel in corners. If you do have a track where you can run these, make sure to use the medium rear shock eyelets so you can achieve the correct amount of droop & ride height. Also, you will only have 1mm of spacing between the arm and rear suspension holders (not 2mm like the kit UM713 arms). I tested in front & behind the arm and for 17.5 & 13.5, prefer the 1mm behind the arms (which is to the rear bumper).

Difference between the above three rear arms is:
UM521 = 2 hole Rr arm with RB5 SP Fr arms
UM521-1 = 1 hole Rr arm with RB5 SP2 Fr arms
UM566 = 2 hole Rr arm (same rear as UM521) with RB5 SP2-WC Fr arms

Last edited by desertracerdad; 03-10-2013 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Edit
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:07 PM
  #5582  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
I want to say that's not the most current, only because Brandon went to 3mm of bump steer shims with 30mm of kick up.
Yep.. im not sure that is right (did i post that? *blush*). At 30 caster I rum 3mm bumpsteer. Its 0mm bump at 25 caster, and 3mm bump at 30 caster. Split it up for your incriments for 26, 27, 28, and 29. I measure on a setup station, or with a metric ruler.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:16 PM
  #5583  
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guys are there any special tips for making the big bores more smooth when building them?
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:21 PM
  #5584  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Yep.. im not sure that is right (did i post that? *blush*). At 30 caster I rum 3mm bumpsteer. Its 0mm bump at 25 caster, and 3mm bump at 30 caster. Split it up for your incriments for 26, 27, 28, and 29. I measure on a setup station, or with a metric ruler.
You would make me do the math lol. What setup station are you using?
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:24 PM
  #5585  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
You would make me do the math lol. What setup station are you using?
Hudy.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:46 PM
  #5586  
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Played around with my caster 25/-4 and wow.. Insane steering!! I liked it over 30/-4 as it had more aggressive response to on and off power. Im running a slightly modified tbo setup
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:27 PM
  #5587  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Hudy.
Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Yep.. im not sure that is right (did i post that? *blush*). At 30 caster I rum 3mm bumpsteer. Its 0mm bump at 25 caster, and 3mm bump at 30 caster. Split it up for your incriments for 26, 27, 28, and 29. I measure on a setup station, or with a metric ruler.
At 25=0 at 25+2= 1.2 at 25+4= 2.4

Does that sound correct?
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by OMG23RC
guys are there any special tips for making the big bores more smooth when building them?
Follow the instructions when bleeding? I've never had to do anything special. Were you having issues, or just curious?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:10 PM
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Must say I am very Impressed.... I got my RB6 Thursday night ... Proceeded to have a wrenching session Thursday and Friday night.. went to the track Saturday was TQ with some very tuff guy's running. Lost TQ in the 3rd round and ended up 2nd in the main!! Long time AE guy and now asking why.. This car rocks !!
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Played around with my caster 25/-4 and wow.. Insane steering!! I liked it over 30/-4 as it had more aggressive response to on and off power. Im running a slightly modified tbo setup
Are you using the negatives to say that you're running the caster inserts backwards? I'm still trying to figure out the caster. I'm running 25/4 and I have a little too much turn in and the car seems to over rotate in the infield....
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:21 PM
  #5591  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
At 25=0 at 25+2= 1.2 at 25+4= 2.4

Does that sound correct?
Ill trust your math It doesn't need to be dead smack on... only close. If you are good at eyeballing toe.. you can just eyeball it. The easy way, is to measure with a ruler just like measuring static toe.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:24 PM
  #5592  
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Played around with my caster 25/-4 and wow.. Insane steering!! I liked it over 30/-4 as it had more aggressive response to on and off power. Im running a slightly modified tbo setup
You're running 21 caster? That would be ultra sensitive in the infield.... and you might be lacking some in the faster sections. I am back to 25/2, and am in heaven. Went up in shock oil last night, and the car has never been better.

Originally Posted by srs70
Must say I am very Impressed.... I got my RB6 Thursday night ... Proceeded to have a wrenching session Thursday and Friday night.. went to the track Saturday was TQ with some very tuff guy's running. Lost TQ in the 3rd round and ended up 2nd in the main!! Long time AE guy and now asking why.. This car rocks !!


Originally Posted by ChadBlanton
Are you using the negatives to say that you're running the caster inserts backwards? I'm still trying to figure out the caster. I'm running 25/4 and I have a little too much turn in and the car seems to over rotate in the infield....
25/4 is where you want to be then... It will give you the tamest infield steering, with the least amount of pro-dive. Over-rotating in the infield sounds like a tire issue, or a static weight balance issue... without seeing a detailed setup sheet. Post the rest of your setup, and we can help you get that sorted out.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:31 PM
  #5593  
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I went to 25/0 and it's better, but I'm needing more steering after entry and was thinking 2 degree inserts would be the ticket as well. Ill have to try that when I get my car back. What bump steer are you running?
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:36 PM
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I am running 25/2 and I am really liking it as well. Came from 30* and this is a bit more aggressive, my car is feeling great!
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:40 PM
  #5595  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
I went to 25/0 and it's better, but I'm needing more steering after entry and was thinking 2 degree inserts would be the ticket as well. Ill have to try that when I get my car back. What bump steer are you running?
Mid corner, I would start with roll center. Keep the same number of shims, but move your inner link inwards to the middle hole to start.
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