172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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02-07-2013, 03:36 PM
#5056
I wonder if we shouldn't take the springs out and stretch them back out a little w/ pliers? I think that's what I'll do ... while also double checking assembly
02-07-2013, 04:04 PM
#5058
Regarding the front axles, I've been playing with moving the spacers around on the stock 6 axles. Moving both of the plastic spacers to the outside of the axle (pushing the axle out) makes enough room for other wheels (JC & Avid) to clear the steering knuckle and the wheel. But of course you also increase your front track width at the same time. Just another thing to play with if you either want to run a different front wheel and/or change front track width.
02-07-2013, 04:27 PM
#5060
02-07-2013, 04:36 PM
#5061
etching
Exotek have released two BB shock caps. I ordered both and am curious to know how well the older style open caps work using the plastic end pieces? I know the plastic part is in the kit, but are the seals the same too or do I need to buy something?
02-07-2013, 04:49 PM
#5062
New Kyosho (Factory) RB6 Parts
Some new stuff coming down the pipeline for us...
UMW701 RB6 Alum Steering Rack
UMW702 RB6 Alum Crank Arm
UMW703 RB6 Titanium Screw Kit
UMW701 RB6 Alum Steering Rack
UMW702 RB6 Alum Crank Arm
UMW703 RB6 Titanium Screw Kit
02-07-2013, 05:24 PM
#5063
02-07-2013, 05:39 PM
#5065
This is what I've been suspecting, is that if I change from narrow hangers to wide hangers, the one hole 521-01 will shorten the distance from the outer hole on the 521, so as maintain the same droop if shock length is not changed.
02-07-2013, 06:00 PM
#5066
Not to be a smart ass but my car rotated better with the narrow blocks and less with the wider ones. Exact opposite of what u just explained. My suspension feels softer with the wider blocks. As far as roll resistance is considered, u got me there. Maybe my car is the odd ball but I had different results
Another thing I can't get round, if I'm on wide holders and looking for more traction, why not just add more rear toe? Why go to narrow holders?
I think for noobs such as myself, I would look at laps times
02-07-2013, 06:43 PM
#5067
This part I'm confused as well, if the narrow blocks give me more forward traction, I'm getting more leverage to really push the car round the (mid to exit) corner as I accelerate through?
Another thing I can't get round, if I'm on wide holders and looking for more traction, why not just add more rear toe? Why go to narrow holders?
I think for noobs such as myself, I would look at laps times
Another thing I can't get round, if I'm on wide holders and looking for more traction, why not just add more rear toe? Why go to narrow holders?
I think for noobs such as myself, I would look at laps times
02-07-2013, 07:17 PM
#5068
They don't
Because more toe does something else entirely. More toe will slow the car down, and decrease corner speed. So while more toe locks the rear end of the car in even MORE, it isn't necessarily the way to go. And there are also other ways of gaining more rear traction besides going to the narrow hangers. It's just one option to lower your roll center.
Because more toe does something else entirely. More toe will slow the car down, and decrease corner speed. So while more toe locks the rear end of the car in even MORE, it isn't necessarily the way to go. And there are also other ways of gaining more rear traction besides going to the narrow hangers. It's just one option to lower your roll center.
02-07-2013, 10:19 PM
#5069
I'm running the Avid slipper and I really like it - except it seems I've got it tightened down almost to the end of the spring (if that makes since) - in other words the spring is almost fully collapsed. It's 17.5 blinky mode, and it almost needs to be even tighter ... is the spring worn out already?
Anyone else experience this yet?
Anyone else experience this yet?
It's perfect now. I just can't ever, ever take it off.
