Getting the correct length shock shouldn't be too hard, question is does the gull wing design offer any advantages...

Well, tested out the new BB's and they are definitely an upgrade. The truck was much more planted and even when I missed the backside of a jump, it was butter...
I know they are pricey, but they are worth it.

my buddy has them on his ride.. next time i go to the track i will take a pic for ya.. he loves them.. night and day difference in performance he's claiming.. but i've been waiting it for the new BB's so we will see whats better in the near future

I put the SC10 4X4 shocks on my 2wd, smoothed the truck out big time, abit overkill maybe but why buy 12mm shocks when I have 13mm

I'd end up giving them away trying to sell the SC10 4x4 anyway, just about have to pay someone to take it off my hands.

Did you use the suggested setup? What springs?

Thanks Borack and cnt wait to see em, I have a tuning question guys. My setup is this
40wt ft oil
Piston 3
Losi 22t green spring
6 limiters
30 mm ride height
Inside on tower
Outside on arm
Link inside 2mm washer on tower
A hole on caster
30 deg caster
Knuckle with washer under
1/4 oz in ft triangles
30wt oil rear
Piston 2
Losi bb 22t white
29mm ride height
3 limiters
4th drill hole on tower
Inside on arm
3 onboard toe
.5 deg hub
Shaved ubrace/ c hub
3oz under batt foam/ ballast under tranny
Med wheelbase
What I'm trying to accomplish here is to eliminate some more of that body roll, I took away some by moving the ft shocks out on the arm and going from piston 1 in rear to #2 and that helped but I wnt to take out more and also gain a lil bit more rear traction when I punch it out of corners. Can I get a lil tuning help from the gurus? Lol

No, I kind of went with my own setup based on my current setups.
Front: 35wt AE oil, 5 limiters, 1.5 piston & Avid yellow spring (3.48 lbs.) with short cups.
Rear: 30wt. AE oil, 1 limiter, 1.6 piston & Avid yellow spring (Batch 1 @ 1.99lbs.) with medium cups.

I did use the shims that were provided because I didn't want to shave the towers. The shims actually move the springs away from the camber links with no ill effects.
At first I thought the front felt way to soft, but went ahead and tried it. Nope, they were perfect. These things sucked up the bumps and were so plush on flat landings with no bounce.

Hey Dog,
You can try 3mm on the front camber link. Highlighted in red in you quote. If your in a testing mode, try moving that same ball stud to the out side hole on the shock tower to give it a shorter camber link. Just something to try. Note how it feels and see if it will help or not.
The rear had a huge effect on the truck as well. I've made some changes in the rear that made it more stable but loose. It's kind of a trade off.
I've been playing around with setups lately and they I'm pleased with the results. Some times they work, sometimes not.

Getting ready to build mine today did you use the stock orings and with the provided shims did it rub the turnbuckles at all ??

Yes, used stock o-rings and have no leaks at all. Which was not the case when I rebuilt my V2's every time.
The shims move the springs away from turnbuckles.

Much appreciated.

For those that don't have the AE or Avid springs - TLR big bore springs fit nicely and to mimic this setup, or even AE's the TLR Silvers are 3.4in/lb and the TLR Yellows are 2.0in/lb.

Can someone recommend a good servo for the SC10 rs 2wd? We bought the rtrs and are looking to replace the servo soon. The cheaper the cost the better, but I understand not throwing money away, and perhaps going a bit more $ for a much better servo I would consider also...TIA.

XP 1313 servo would be perfect for you 74.99 MSRP

If you are looking to do things on the VERY cheap - http://www.hobbypartz.com/125g.html

But if you are looking to do it right get a Savox 1256 on the for sale section for ~$50 and never worry again.

Just make sure your not using a spektrum radio and if you are make sure you buy a glitch buster if you go with savox servo.