I personally run all my toe on the inner block and use 0 degree hubs.

I was look at the post and everyone going crazy on the the camber links. longer shorter high lower!! this is how i do it// i tune rear of the truck for on power only
and we are on power a good 80% of the time so i only going to do the rear link.

I like to get the ball stud as close as is can to the middle of the truck on the shock tower( it dose give you more steering entering the corner but i tune the front for that) to give me more traction on exit by letting the truck get more weight on the out side tire. (if your on a vary hi traction track put ball stud on outer hole if you need the more on power steering)
after i do that i try to get the ball stud a low as i need it. on this truck the trick is to shave the brace #9564 even where the ball studs goes it like 2mm to make even. what this dose is give the truck more camber gain. what that dose is let you run your tires more up right for more forward grip(in stright line) and not let it flip or grab ruts as bad.
both of these trick together help you get the most corner grip,forward grip and not flip.

but still the hub dose funny things
if you mount on the out side hole on hub you get the stability going into the corner like you would think but you dont get the grip on exit /it tend to drift or steer a little more less roll. the inside hole on hub give you less exit steering with more roll or grip. so what i do is if i want more steering the more out i go on the hub. if to much steering go in on hub. (remember most of you driving is on power so go by on power first)
last on the hub higher ball stud gain camber gain lower decrease camber gain.(if you shave the part number #9564 like i did on top) if you put you ball stud higher it be good for 1/8 track that are rutted up from the bigger buggies.

if you notice longer link/short link dose not work like you think so everyone wrong and right at the same time. it where you put the ball studs not really the link it self. so if ball stud is on inside shock tower and inside hub your on very very low grip track. out side tower out side hub very very high grip track. but yes a longer link over all will be more stable and more grip. shorter link overall less rear grip but more steering.

one last thing this is only for the rear 80% of your tune. if you try this on the front you be off 20%!!!! this is the way i tune!!! it could be wrong?? if so plz tell me!!! i dont have 20years of experience in this like i see everyone else say(i would had to start at 7)!!! but it should help everyone new or used tune a little better!!!

dumb question:
i just got a 2wd sc10 with hex front and rear....what offset wheels do i run?

I like the relux +3mm rims. I think avid makes sc10 4x4 wheels with +3 offsets also.

The Proline Renegade makes a +3 mm offset as well. I like it.

i try the pro-line F11 +3 it more like -3 not sure y but i had to put washer on out side to get it to run and the rim was soft
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-2-SC10-4x4

the jconcepts hazard +3 very wide fit. it fit tight on the hex and is a hard rim. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ack-2-SC10-4x4

if i where you i would get off set and non off set. the F11 is good for the rear the rim has more flex less off-set= more grip. the hazard are stiff and wide will help take away some corner traction and stable.

The Avid wheels are great, perfect fit on the hex and not as stiff as some of the others out there. They are available in black, white and yellow.

http://www.avidrc.com/search/?x=0&y=0&s=sc10+%2B3

and if you buy them in a pack of 6 you get a break on the price....cant beat that!

is rcrd still making chassis ? is anyone using them ?

fom what i heard, they are no longer making these,but soon to have a new one out...

last time i talked to brannon at rcrd, he said he was redisigning the chassis.
I did not ask him how long before he will be running them though.

ive seen two for the sc10 made by RCRD but im not sure what one is what. i can not find any real good pics either.

i seen one for sale and im trying to get some info on them, can anyone help me out. ?

ive seen a narrow design and a wider design. whats the difference besides the obvious ?

thanks.

So is it the norm to run +3 rims on the SC10? Never realized everyone seems to be running it that way.

i can speak for everyone but i only run it in the front. i run on a 1/8 buggy track
so i dont need the steering. if i was to run a hi grip in door track or nice blue grove track run +3 all around. if you on low grip track and is tight the +3 might not help. this sound funny but a hi grip very tight track i would try +3 only in the rear.

what rcrd chassis is this ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...c#ht_500wt_716

I've run the Maifield setup on indoor, high-bite bluegroove (large track); Indoor slick-groove/moderate bite small/tight track; and a larger outdoor dusty clay track.

It works everywhere.

I used to run standard offset wheels and the truck was always sketchy and on edge.

Swapping to 12mm hex all around and the +3mm offset Hazard wheels made it drive sweeet. Like a stadium truck almost. Really the single best thing I've done.

It's a no brainer. I will NEVER go back to running the truck narrow. You can drive it so hard with the +3 setup.

Also, I've done a TON of searching about running Avid springs.

For one, they're NOT worth $45 for a set really UNLESS you're really looking for that last bit of performance. Work on your driving skills and keep the truck maintained first.

That said, I went from running blue/green AE's and swapped to Yellow/White Avids. They were ok, but def not "right". Swapped to yellow rears and the truck is dialed, even on slick/dusty outdoor track. They work really well.

The only time the Avids really perform noticeably better is if you're running on a rough track or with really big jumps. They do help a small bit to give it that "plush" feel.

Maifield Setup, follow the most recent one posted EXACTLY.
32/30mm F/R ride height
BFast diff rings. Tigthen and back off 1/8 turn
Slipper: Tighten and back off 2.5 turns. 2.25-2.5 turns out with standard FT friction discs.
8.5, 7.5 or 6.5 motor to get the job done. Gear it shorter and run a bit more timing. 83/18 with mild timing will be ok for an 8.5 or 7.5 to start with for *most tracks.

Also, reinforcing the rear body mount does help. However, the JC Carbon fiber piece is super cool, but may be pricey for some. Simple solution: Take a 2nd stock body mount and trim the front "tab" off of it. Then with the mounting posts off, mount/clamp the 2nd unit on top of the one on the truck. Make sure you get it on squarely and put longer screws in the body posts. It adds significant strength, esp. with the epoxy in there. Drill a couple 4-40 sized holes and bolt it together, just inboard of the body posts for extra strength and to ensure it doesn't separate.