turtle189

I agree

rcracer121

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys for the help it will be here tomorrow got to drive someones last week and its amazing compared to the 2.0 losi I had and ive won races with it so definitely cant wait for the tekno

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

rcracer121 id keep a spare rear diff housing, maybe a package of chassis braces, a few of the screws that hold in the hangers,, maybe some outdrives. Some real quality issues on certain runs of those outdrives.. I mean excessive wear after a single race day, others will last for 1/2 the season.. none last as long as my old losi 2.0's did but I wouldn't go back to the losi either.. buggy is great despite some of the recent QC issues I've seen. Its funny I went from the losi with excessive wear on the pins of the dogbones, to the outdrives wearing and the dogbones lasting. I guess it is one or the other :P and don't let them fool you, that quick release center diff is a MUST HAVE, it's retarded what it takes to get that diff out w/ that not installed.... worth every cent.

rcracer121

iTrader: (2)

Yea I loved the losi just really wanted something more up to date and all mu buddys are running them so hopefully they will give me some set up tips. Hopeing to have the car all ready and tuned up to where I need it for the futaba race at the end of july. Thats again for the pointers ill keep lurking threw the almost 1000 pages of good info on this thread too.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

It's late and I think I'm overthinking this, but after looking at the EB48 setup sheet I totally confused myself with the ackerman/bump steer ballstuds and washers.

The setup sheet has over and under for the washers. Does under mean between the ballstud and the spindle/ackerman plate? And does over means by the screw head (basically not changing anything)?

And the ballstuds: Does the setting on Bornhosts (http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...MediumBite.pdf) have it such that the ackerman ballstud has the ball farthest from the ackerman plate, and the spindle ballstud has the ball closest to the spindle?

Thanks!

MOE

iTrader: (14)

Thats how I understand it goehm.

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

What shock build type are you guys liking outdoors on a hard clay , large track with med size jumps in 85-95 dg heat ? The shock bladders in the kit seem really rigid . I would imagine that would be the most consistent, but maybe not the best at dampening. 6x1.5 pistons here fwiw.

Carter Flotron

iTrader: (1)

I would definitely use the bladder, with a vented setup. Has great bump handling as well as damping for larger jumps.

ba4ma

iTrader: (11)

Anyone know where I can find the precut masking for the windows on the body?

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

You can cheat by cutting the film off the outside of the Windows and use it on the opposite inside window.

blackshark3

Hi, I bought the EB48.2 as my first buggy, at first setting it up as per standard setup of manual, and have been running it since February. However, as I go I played with different settings trying to get the car suitable to my driving style, but I have come to a point that I am completely lost... In view of the wear and tear, would go back to the base setup and try again, but before I do so would like to seek some setup advice.

The following is the standard setup which I used right off the bat (I don't know how to post the setup sheet):
Ride height - F26 R 26
Camber - 2 all corners
Toe - F 1out R 4in
Shock oil - F 450 R 350
Diff oil - 7/7/5
Tyres - Proline Holeshot X4 Super Soft
Motor/ESC : Tekin T8 G2/RX8 Gen 2
Pinion/Spur : 14/44

What I would like to achieve is lots of turn in off power. The track I am running is indoor with loose clay (mid traction), lots of chicanes.

Also the motor is getting hot (around 100 after 14 minute run). Should I gear down?

Any help appreciated

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

depending on what kv motor you are using you may be under geared. most run 1 17-19t on a 1900kv motor and you should be in the 140-155 temp range after 10 min. which is fine.

if you are looking for more turn in and are happy with the rest of your setup I would drop the front diff oil down to 5k first.

Breeze

iTrader: (156)

What KV motor is it

blackshark3

Thanks. Would change the front diff oil to 5000 to try. Also it seems that on acceleration, especially on the straight on full throttle the front would lift off with the tires ballooning. My friend said my ride height of the rear might be too low, as when the rear settled my car's rear A arms would point upwards a little bit, but I checked the ride height is 26mm that way. Is my friend right in saying the rear A-Arms should at least be level when the rear end settle? Should I change to a stiffer rear springs or set the rear ride height higher? As for springs I am using pink front red rear, the same as stock.

As for motor, I am running 2050 KV.

Sorry for all the questions. Really appreciated

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

I normally run 27mm front and 28-29mm rear. is sounds like you are getting too much weight transfer and ballooning the front tires. you can take some front droop out to help with that as well as look at rear anti squat.