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Old 04-04-2014, 04:36 PM
  #11956  
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Anyone mind posting a setup sheet for a rutted outdoor track? I will be racing the SS Nitro challenge next week and I haven't had much time on the car, so I need a good base setup
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:40 PM
  #11957  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Understood, but due to the timing I'm in the block of highly likely to be bad versions and they wont simply replace known issues parts even w/ receipts and kit details. I have to break my part first, then have to not be able to race while I pay to ship them a bad part and wait for it to be shipped back and yes I have to pay to have it shipped to me as well. It doesn't cost me much more to just buy the good parts, and then I have piece of mind and I don't have to miss run time.

I've come to terms with what to expect for customer service w/ Tekno. My brand new Tekno ET48 has outdrives that show more wear after a few hours of use (visible cups) than my losi parts did after a full year of racing. The best Tekno would do is make me rip my vehicle apart, leaving me w/o a vehicle, pay to ship them the defective (new) part, then they will give me a 50% credit for more new parts to replace the defective new parts and yes I also get to pay them to ship me my parts as well. Good stuff.
Wow never had any issues like that, tekno at least admits there's a problem and does what they can to fix it. I'm sure if your gearbox broke they give you a knew one and almost every company makes u pay shipping which by the would be like $2 max for a case. I disagree w ur opinion of their service but to each his own
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:44 PM
  #11958  
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Also if people are having issues with the case breaking because the rear brace was off, you attach the rear brace and just not tighten the screw all the way that connects brace to housing, that way u still get flex w less breaking
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:01 PM
  #11959  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Understood, but due to the timing I'm in the block of highly likely to be bad versions and they wont simply replace known issues parts even w/ receipts and kit details. I have to break my part first, then have to not be able to race while I pay to ship them a bad part and wait for it to be shipped back and yes I have to pay to have it shipped to me as well. It doesn't cost me much more to just buy the good parts, and then I have piece of mind and I don't have to miss run time.

I've come to terms with what to expect for customer service w/ Tekno. My brand new Tekno ET48 has outdrives that show more wear after a few hours of use (visible cups) than my losi parts did after a full year of racing. The best Tekno would do is make me rip my vehicle apart, leaving me w/o a vehicle, pay to ship them the defective (new) part, then they will give me a 50% credit for more new parts to replace the defective new parts and yes I also get to pay them to ship me my parts as well. Good stuff.

Imagine being overseas, even worse. I wouldn't bother either.
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:55 PM
  #11960  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
Wow never had any issues like that, tekno at least admits there's a problem and does what they can to fix it. I'm sure if your gearbox broke they give you a knew one and almost every company makes u pay shipping which by the would be like $2 max for a case. I disagree w ur opinion of their service but to each his own
I'm not commenting past this post, but both hobbico and horizon (losi, Durango etc) will expedite shipping at NO cost to the user with proof of purchase if you have ANY issues with new parts on a new or close to new vehicle or kit. They do not make you mail crap in they do not charge you shipping unless it is a warranty issue down the road. We are talking about BRAND NEW KITS, and issues with BRAND NEW PARTS that should not be defective and should be replaced after proof of purchase and at most photos for verification have been given. They are known issues, that the company admits to having... don't compare, you are wrong.

We are not talking about electronics or big ticket items that all companies want to verify if it was user error first, then move to the next step, in those cases yes all companies will have you ship in the defective units.

I spoke only fact, you didn't need to throw that in.. there was no "opinion". Past that you pay for something to pack, tape, print for the label, gas to the post office, and forget about my time that is worth way more than a 14.00 part to waste an hour on. LOL
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:46 PM
  #11961  
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I received me new BCE Tekno t1-14 last weekend and was finally able to find some time this afternoon to replace the original BCE T1 that I have been running for the past several months.

As to expected the quality of the milling and chassis material are second to none. The new chassis has a few updates compared to the original t1.
Just a few are:
new strategic milling pockets that are seem to be cut .25mm deeper than in the original.
New milled pocket under the center diff that allows the use of the optional Traction drive/ clutch.
Also, It has the original and optional battery tray mount locations.

Original t1 installed on the eb48.2 and new t1-14 below.

Here we have the new t1-14 on top, original t1, and stock Eb48.2 chassis

Next is a picture to show the difference in milling height on the pockets (the best I could get)t1-14 on top and original t1 on bottom

Stock chassis on the scale

original t1

BCE t1-14

And finally the finished product




Everything went together smoothly and I did not have tighten things in a certain order for it all to line up. I did decide to use the optional mounting holes as I do not like the battery forward position and I am able to change from the stock rear position or the optional reward position depending on the amount of rear traction I need.
**Note when running this position some trimming is required to the battery tray**

Overall, the new BCE t1-14 is a refined work of art that builds on the success of the original t1 platform.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:44 PM
  #11962  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
I'm not commenting past this post, but both hobbico and horizon (losi, Durango etc) will expedite shipping at NO cost to the user with proof of purchase if you have ANY issues with new parts on a new or close to new vehicle or kit. They do not make you mail crap in they do not charge you shipping unless it is a warranty issue down the road. We are talking about BRAND NEW KITS, and issues with BRAND NEW PARTS that should not be defective and should be replaced after proof of purchase and at most photos for verification have been given. They are known issues, that the company admits to having... don't compare, you are wrong.

We are not talking about electronics or big ticket items that all companies want to verify if it was user error first, then move to the next step, in those cases yes all companies will have you ship in the defective units.

I spoke only fact, you didn't need to throw that in.. there was no "opinion". Past that you pay for something to pack, tape, print for the label, gas to the post office, and forget about my time that is worth way more than a 14.00 part to waste an hour on. LOL
100% with ya Brian, first run out with my tlr 8ight 3.0 last year I broke a part due to a issue during manufacturing & I was missing a few pills for the adjustable hinge pin holders..... Needless to say, they sent me 2 bags of pills & 2 full sets of outdrives. First race out with the eb48.2 I backsided a jump and the diff case snapped ruining my whole weekend. I had to search the pits to find the part and piece my car back together after it ruined my freshly painted body also. I had to pay for the parts to replace it, then send the broken one in? No way!
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:33 PM
  #11963  
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Try 1/8 scale for the first time and I have a couple of queations. Do I need long shank mod 1 opinions? Well I guess I only have one question right now. I am sure there will be more..........more.........anybody who races at Indy rc in Texas on this forum?
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:52 PM
  #11964  
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Originally Posted by Ssilverfz1
Try 1/8 scale for the first time and I have a couple of queations. Do I need long shank mod 1 opinions? Well I guess I only have one question right now. I am sure there will be more..........more.........anybody who races at Indy rc in Texas on this forum?
it does not need to be a long shank.
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:54 PM
  #11965  
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Broke a diff case last sat....ordered two and fixed it up... 2 corners later new case is broke. Made it a whole 5 seconds. Cant wait to get into newer ones.
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:24 PM
  #11966  
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Originally Posted by slimgravy
Broke a diff case last sat....ordered two and fixed it up... 2 corners later new case is broke. Made it a whole 5 seconds. Cant wait to get into newer ones.
If you have a few older cases then the easy fix is put a longer screw into the brace section.

It comes with a 12mm screw replace with a 15mm and you should have to crash really bad to break it.

As mentioned though the new parts are in and being used with out breakages
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Old 04-06-2014, 02:13 PM
  #11967  
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Has anyone tried the blue CSI pistons in their buggy? Thinkin of gettin some for mine and theET as well
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Old 04-06-2014, 06:04 PM
  #11968  
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Originally Posted by nitro0619
Has anyone tried the blue CSI pistons in their buggy? Thinkin of gettin some for mine and theET as well
Yes, the CSI Blue's work great. I let a friend of mine borrow mine today and he was amazed. I'd start with zero rebound, 32.5 front and 30 rear.
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Old 04-06-2014, 06:29 PM
  #11969  
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Originally Posted by munrath
Yes, the CSI Blue's work great. I let a friend of mine borrow mine today and he was amazed. I'd start with zero rebound, 32.5 front and 30 rear.
what springs??? shock positions? is that with the kyosho springs
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:20 PM
  #11970  
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Originally Posted by munrath
Yes, the CSI Blue's work great. I let a friend of mine borrow mine today and he was amazed. I'd start with zero rebound, 32.5 front and 30 rear.
Are you using the newer V port or the older style...I think the older is a 8 hole maybe. I have the older style that worked very well on my buggy. never got around to using the newer V port.
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