munrath

iTrader: (4)

Jason,

I'm running a prototype BCE chassis that has the stock battery position and the modified battery location. I know Bill will be happy to make them for others if there is enough interest.

Mark

protc3

iTrader: (13)

That would be cool. The chassis does look nice.

UK.hardcore

Any one here with a T8I 1950? how does it run, what size track...

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

The part that hass to be removed is something I will never use. And even when removing it can still be used on the stock chassis. I am running the battery foward in the tray which is the battery back on the stock chassis. I will post up some detailed pictures tonight.

You can always spen 15$ and have a cut tray and stock tray if you plan to run either chassis depending on traction levels.

cpt_RedBeard

iTrader: (22)

The shims aren't there to raise the housing back up. They are there because the pockets that the housing sits in isn't as deep as a stock chassis. With out the shim you are bottoming the case out on the square on the bottom not the actual case base.

I run it indoor. I'd say the track size is medium to small, but honestly I don't think it looses much compared to a t8 1900. I really like the feel and temperament of the motor. I'm going to leave it in there for outdoor too.

munrath

iTrader: (4)

UK - I'm currently running the T8I 1950 and this motor is very smooth. I plan to start off using it at Motorama which is a medium/large size track to see how/where it compares. The track I run it on now is very small.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Hmm, Ok, That would be a good change as well then. cut the pockets deeper and move the battery back to stock.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Agreed. I really like it as well. Was wondering about how people were liking it on the full scale eb48. I've been running the BCE on my ultralight SCT410 1/8 buggy conversion for a couple months now and love it too. Really locks the rear end in and makes the car much easier to drive aggressively on corner exit for me. Just about to get a 2nd one for my short course.

cpt_RedBeard

iTrader: (22)

The pockets aren't cut as deep for a reason. If they were cut to depth it would take no time for the housings to show through due to chassis wear. But I agree with moving the battery back to stock.

munrath

iTrader: (4)

Jason,

I don't think he can cut them any deeper as it's so think now because it's only 3mm. He does have a template made that offers the stock battery location and his modified location as well.

Mark

MX304

iTrader: (21)

Ok, I may be wrong but I don't see how moving the entire diff assembly up and down in the chassis would change roll center. You are not moving the arms in relation to the gearbox or upper camber link. You are just moving the entire assembly up or down. All that would change is the height of the CG. The hinge pin inserts on the other hand do change the roll center. That being said I wonder if it's the roll center change or resulting change in height distance between the outdrive and the a-arm that really makes the difference in handling? A good example of that is the mod people were doing on the Losi 22 buggy and stadium truck. All it did was space the gearbox up higher in relation to the a-arm. If you made a change to the upper camber link that kept it in the same relationship to the a-arms before the gearbox spacer was installed, it still had more rear grip than stock even though the roll center was not changed.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

The only change with or without the shim would be a 1mm higher or lower COG. The relationship between the upper and lower arm doesn't change and the relationship between the upper and lower arm vs the outdrive doesn't change either. Its not like the 22 where the lower am hinge pin mounts are screwed to the chassis and the transmission is a separate piece. When you raised the transmission on the 22 up by 1mm it it moved the outdrive 1mm up vs the lower hing pin mounts.

All of this doesnt matter anyway. You need to run the 1mm shims under the front and rear gearboxes with the BCE chassis. The pockets in the chassis aren't deep enough to run without them. If you do, the diff cases bottom out in the pocket and you will have a little 1mm gap around the perimeter of the diff housing. The shim merely fills this gap and lets the screws tighten down without distorting the diff housing.

Use the shims it came with. I actually just put a couple dabs of super glue on mine and glued them right into place and you don't need to touch them again.

MX304

iTrader: (21)

My comment about the 22 was in reference to using the new inserts that lower the pin in relation to the outdrives, not the chassis shims.

S.TRIPP77

I would buy the chassis if it was offered with stock LIPO position.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Yes. It would just be a matter of adding 6 or 7 more screw holes and you could make it so it could be mounted either on the stock position or in the back position. Would be a nice option.