platgof

iTrader: (4)

I was running next to two M11's and not sure if that was why or not. I have not raced it since that race, so not sure. But the glitch buster has been installed, I should have known better.

JRSlash

iTrader: (7)

Time to update the radio.... Futaba can be switch to left hand drive, I don't know about the Sanwa or the new DX6R.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Spent my radio money on golf clubs!

WallyRC

Love it!! It's always a decision of mine too!! LOL

Great budget radio though:
Radiolink RC3s

JRSlash

iTrader: (7)

Anybody have an extra set of exotek aluminum front steering knuckles that want to sell? Only place I can find them is asiatees but they are pricey(price+shipping).

Alan_r

Alright well today I was finally able to get my rebuilt sc210 on the track. As some of you know, I'm putting together a 1/10 Durango fleet to run this spring, taking a break from my AE cars. As it stands, my DEX210V3 is dialed, the DEST210 is in a thousand pieces getting rebuilt, the DEX410V5 and an older DESC410V2 are still new in the box... Getting there.

Anyway, the truck is setup to Dillon Caldwell's SMACKTRAC setup except for .5 degrees more rear toe and MM4 instead of MM3. His setup is attached. The track, hard pack dry dirt/clay mix was blown off today, so I strapped on four Jconcepts 3DS in green, set the 4200 Turnigy Nani tech all the way back and powered up the SMC VR-160 Esc powering an SMC 9.5T motor.

I had been driving my PROSC 4wd SCT all day so I expected a marked difference in handling so I started out doing slow laps just to get a feel for the truck. I immediately noticed the same understeer I had dealt with on the DEX a week ago. I remembered reading on here that this truck is extremely responsive to where the battery is placed so I brought it in and moved the shorty to the center position. This immiediatly brought in more steering. It was now balanced much better with mild on power understeer that was easily brought in line by lifting the throttle a little.

By the second battery I was turning faster laps and was able to start forming an opinion on what was happening. The truck had grip for days. As long as I was fairly smooth with the application of throttle and brake, the truck just stuck to the line. I was actually surprised how well it was gripping with this setup. The truck drove very smoothly and god do I love Durango shocks. They are so plush when done right and the way they settled while Downsiding jumps and hopping the truck up onto higher elevation parts of the track made me look like a better driver than I am..

At this point I only noticed two things that really needed attention. The first, was that the truck felt slower than it should with a 9.5. (if you remember I felt the same about the 10.5 powered dex210.) Apparently I gear very conservative when I demo a car. It could also have been that I was driving a 550 powered 4x4 all day.... Either way temps were only warm after 10 minutes so I'll gko up a tooth on the pinion

The second issue, and one that I'd like some input from you Durango guys on, is that the truck felt sluggish going around the track. My laps were pretty fast but they didn't feel fast. It felt like I was driving a 1970 Monte Carlo around the track. It's difficult to describe it. It just felt heavy. The wheels would turn in the direction I wanted to go, and the truck would respond, but it was like the truck was being forced to do it. My other 2wd sct's feel very lite on their feet. Agile would be the word. The only truck I have that feels like this is my Traxxas Slayer Pro. But it really IS heavy so I expect it to feel this way. Now don't get me wrong, the truck has no problem navigating the track. It just feels slow motion. I'm not usually at a loss for words but I don't know how else to describe it. It reacts fine, it just FEELS heavy and sluggish. The feeling kind of throws me off and I have trouble getting into a good rhythm with it. Somewhere in the setup is causing this. Just have to figure it out.

Anyway, all in all I'd say this was a success. It's definitely something different that you don't see at the track around here. I'm looking forward to campaigning this one to see how it stacks up against the other SC5M's, whatever the TLR one is called and the Pro2's.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Are you running MM3?

WallyRC

Alan,
The arms on the Durango's are longer than any other brand. Hence the lazy feeling. Leans more but holds its line. They do drive different. If you have good traction firm up the springs. I am using light red rear, and light brown front I believe.
3x1.6 rear and 2x1.6 front.
Front 2x1.6
Rear 1.7 works well too.
Good luck
Like the buggy. Mm4 pitches the car front to back a lot. Can help in lower traction, if issues go to MM3.

Alan_r

PlatG: MM4

WALLY: that makes sense. I hadn't thought of that. The truck was plenty fast and I really could not find glaring faults in the setup. It has tons of traction both front and rear. It just felt VERY different than my AE trucks. Lazy but always seemed to be where I wanted it to be. After what you have said, I think I need to run a bunch of batteries through it before I change anything. I'm taking it to a club race next weekend so any issues will surely present themselves under the pressure of competition. You may be 100% correct though. It's definitely not the mess my DEX210 was, that's for sure.

WallyRC

Right on Alan. Don't know if you caught this reading all the pages. Make sure to drill mounting holes higher than the stock position on the front shock tower for the body mounts. Keeps the front tires from rubbing.

Alan_r

Yeah I caught that during the build. I simply moved the body back 2mm and got the clearance I was looking for though. It's working so far and looks right. I drove more batteries through it this morning;I made sure it was first in line so I wasn't coming from a different car this time. I need to take it apart and re do the diff. This one was built using the AE method as well it would seem. Rear rotation is not consistent. There is some on power understeer going on but I can't tell how much is diff related. I'm definitely going to have to learn how to drive this truck. It's by far the most different feeling truck I have.

PmmP

Looks like I will really have to reinforce them because I think I'll have a real hard time to find some new ones...Where do you guys get yours?Or is there any option part to replace the TD ones?

Alan_r

Yep, sure enough. I took the diff apart tonight and just like my DEX210, building the diff like you would an AE diff results in a way too tight diff. I can't believe it actually handled the way it did with the diff like that. It was TIGHT....1/8" off as tight as it would go. I'm actually surprised the balls didn't dent the rings.. I've learned my lesson though. You can bet that the diff in my DEST210 and DEX410 will be right the first time.

I considered going to MM3 while I had it apart but the weight transfer seemed to help with traction today so I'll keep it for now.

WallyRC

I got mine from A main. Don't know if they are in stock. For my sons, I got a pair of the DESC410 rpm rears. If you have a dremel and are pretty handy, you need to remove material off the inside to make them work. So far they are holding up. Since your on turf you may just want on reinforce the stiffer ones for better handling. Look on eBay , you might find some there.

WallyRC

Good luck with the rebuild. The video for building the diff on the Durango site is very helpful. It is definitely different than the AE ones. Your on power understeer may be the MM4?!? But if it's helping your traction. That's your trade off. Good luck!!