empire39

If on a small budget what kind of lipos do you suggest that are powerfull yet cost effective and will last awhile?

SolderGlob

iTrader: (13)

Turnigy lipos are excellent low budget batteries and I hear the nano techs are even better and for the price they can't be beat.

Also, the 4600 might be too hot of a motor to run on a converted Ten-T. May have to run a smaller pinion to keep the motor from overheating.

Another note on the top brace parts from Losi, it comes with a top for the center diff and a lower piece that spaces the center diff a few mm higher so that the spur has clearance. The rectangular section that will faces the ground will need to be modded to fit in the slot on the Ten chassis.

darryl80

iTrader: (24)

SolderGlob how will the top plate for the center diff have to be modded to fit?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Just an FYI. I run the Castle MMP in a 1/8 scale buggy (hot bodies D8 Tekno V4 conversion) with a Tekno 2050 Kv motor and a 4S 5600mah lipo. So as you can see, its heavier than the losi SCTE and I don't use a BEC and have no issues.

Even if you had to use a BEC on the castle MMP which in my opinion would depend on what servo you use and receiver more so than anything else, you still get an ESC that has USA support and 1 year warranty on it.

With the price of the system now down to $183.75 (Castle 3800Kv system) which if you are a tower member makes it more like $160 shipped, not a bad deal at all.


As for lipos, in the past I have been quite happy with Promatch racing products. Here is a link to some lipos they have that would work well for the money.

http://promatchracing.com/products.php?cat=38

The 2S 6000mah 60C pack with deans connectors for $65 (and I think you get free shipping over $100 order, so order 2) is a good price.

They also have a 1 year replacement warranty on lipo battery packs.

When I need batteries again, I will most likely order from them even though I am happy with my IP lipos.

SolderGlob

iTrader: (13)

It's not the top plate that needs to be modded, it's the bottom plate, specifically the section that goes where the flywheel pokes through the chassis. It's the part that I highlighted in the attachment.

losifiend

iTrader: (73)

That part posted above is easy to trim. Just place it on the chassis and use a hobby knife to trace around where it needs to be cut. I trimmed mine up with a Dremel cut off wheel. It can also be trimmed using a hack saw blade.

I use the these packshttp://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16194 with a HK120A sensored ESC and Novak Ballistic 4.5 motor. I use this BEChttp://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=10313

SolderGlob

iTrader: (13)

I ended up cutting it flush with a hacksaw blade. I originally tried to trim it down but it didn't go so well. Used some closed cell foam tape to seal the hole left behind.

darryl80

iTrader: (24)

is it a hard job to trim the bottom plate where the spur gear pokes through the chassis?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I can help you with this if you want, if I can get a before (already as shown) and after pic that would really help.

losifiend

iTrader: (73)

No need to trim anything other than the part shown in the picture above. With the conversion the diff gets turned 180*. It doesn't go back in the position it was in when it was nitro.