DJLeonardo

I'm currently finishing my Mugen MBX6 ECO SC truck conversion.

I think will call it the Mugen Seiki MBSC6 ECO

Thanks to this threat I was able to do a conversion of an AE RC8e into a Short course truck (what should have been the SC10 4x4 IMHO )

SC10 4x4 conversion

Then I decided to try it on the best buggy platform currently available.

Here's a sneak peek:










I will post some detailed pictures lateron.

weight
The weight without body and Lipo but with motor, ESC and wheels is currently 3100 grams (or 6 lb and 13.34 oz for you guys )

cost
Check out the links and use your calculator. It's a little over 40 dollars extra.

my partslist:

The buggy itself
partnr E0070
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAVCG&P=ML

front bumper:
70902
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYVK1&P=7

rear bumper:
89435
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWA3&P=7
89436
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWA4&P=7

2 sets (!) Traxxas Slash 2WD body posts (you use 2 rear bodyposts):
2x 1914X
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUVY6&P=7

AE SC8 wheels:
89401
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVVX5&P=7

or DE Racing wheels for Proline tires (don't fit well on AE wheels)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Racing-SC-Wheels...item336a00c6f2

Your choice of SC tires. I use these for all terrain use (with belts so no ballooning):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYGF0&P=7

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

What body is that?

BoneDoc

iTrader: (6)

Sweet! Let us know what it takes to do the conversion.

bronc4now

iTrader: (43)

cooollll!!!!! that thing is bad azz !!!!!

Woodbutcher

Nicely done,what was your approximate cost?

WeekendRacer89

iTrader: (5)

Looks good man but the ae sc10 4x4 was trying not to be like the losi and completely design a true SC truck not a converted buggy. I'm not trying to be a dick just saying y they didn't do it like that

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

What does it weigh? We have a 2s battery limit around here for 4x4 sc. I have an eco and I'm just thinking this may be to much weight for 2s.

Don't get me wrong. It looks good. Nice work. Just wondering about the weight?

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

That has to be the sc8 body I'm thinking which means it's not going to be allowed anywhere as far as racing goes. Great for bashing though.

Z-Man.

iTrader: (4)

I think Mugen should make the this in an M-Spec.
It would change every thing in sc racing.

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

good job! Looks like an SC10 body. The SC8 would be too long. 1/8 scale buggies have the same wheelbase as a 1/10 sc truck whereas the SC8 has a much longer wheel base. Let us know how it handles. I've seen a few RC8 conversions and they do quite well. but need to be run on 3s to really keep up speedwise, but they handle fantastic!

morgoth

Why? Just race buggy if you want a buggy platform.

DJLeonardo

looks, Jasper, Looks Not everybody is a racer

When you want to join the SC truck races on your local track I don't think this will work for you. The truck is heavier then a 1/10 SC truck. I think when you make it as light as possible (with the carbon shock towers, titanium screws etc) I think it will be very competetive but not allowed at the track. I strictly bash with my cars so I don't care about regulations
This car is not for small indoor tracks I think. However it outperforms my RC8 SC conversion when it comes to cornering. Given the fact it is very fast on the straight with a buggy motor it might keep up at the corners and overtake other SC trucks on the straight. When you are restricted to 2S it's going to be difficult though. You might try a Neu 1509 1Y motor on 2S. This motor is a small buggy motor. With 3600 Kv on 2S you might get there. I am no racer though so I leave that test up to somebody else.

I'll be updating the startpost from now on.

body
It's a SC10 body with a mix of custom/stock Traxxas Amsoil stickers.

weight
The weight without body and Lipo but with motor, ESC and wheels is currently 3100 grams (or 6 lb and 13.34 oz for you guys )

So when you put on a racing body it will add a 100 gr. Unless to tape the inside for protection like I do, it will be about 200 gr.
Then offcourse add the Lipo of your choice, I use one that is about 450 gr.

The RC8 SC is slightly heavier with the same configuration, about 3350 gr with a buggy motor.

cost
The cost is not much more then de normal buggy setup. What you need to add is a front bumper (RPM) a rear bumper, some body posts and off course the SC truck wheels. The wheels don't really count as addition since they are a substitution for the buggy wheels. Check out the links and use your calculator. It's a little over 40 dollars extra.

my partslist:

The buggy itself
partnr E0070
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAVCG&P=ML

front bumper:
70902
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYVK1&P=7

rear bumper:
89435
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWA3&P=7
89436
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWA4&P=7

2 sets (!) Traxxas Slash 2WD body posts (you use 2 rear bodyposts):
2x 1914X
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUVY6&P=7

AE SC8 wheels:
89401
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVVX5&P=7

or DE Racing wheels for Proline tires (don't fit well on AE wheels)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Racing-SC-Wheels...item336a00c6f2

Your choice of SC tires. I use these for all terrain use (with belts so no ballooning):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYGF0&P=7

Then there's the screws. I had a couple of stainless steel screw kits for my other cars. I used out of those so I don't really know what particular set would suit best. I would assume the kit for the AE SC8 would fit best since it has the long screws you need for the rear bumper. The rest is just common sizes that are in every 1/8 car.

motor combo:
I use a Tekin RX8 because of its small footprint. I first had the commonly used T8 1900 Kv in there but I noticed it runs faster on my Neu 1512 1.5Y (1850Kv) I bought from Morgoth. So I'll keep it in there for now. The car is nimble and fast with this setup. I use a 19/46 for bashing. (I had to drill out a bit of the holes to make the mount slide in again. I forgot I also had a 44t spur)
THe RC8 I currently have a Neu 1515 1Y (2200 Kv) with a 23t/44T for onroad racing (on 4S or 5S) That also seems to work well for offroad (highspeed) bashing with 3S or 4S. I use that truck for the heavy work since it's heavier and seems to be a bit more sturdy. I will keep the MBX for the elegant work.

servo:
I use an Ace DS 1015 (or AE or TT) It's fast and strong. I have a Hitec 7955TG in my RC8e SC and that is a bit slower but that works well for a slightly heavier truck. I also have a Savox 1258TG but that is bit too light for this setup I think, it works well in my Slash 4x4 though.

external BEC
I always use one. Especially Spektrum receivers need a stable 6V to keep their connection. I use the hobbywing BEC mostly, cheap and still good wires. I had a Turnigy form HK but that's too fragile. Also I have a CC BEC in my Slash 4x4 but that's because I also have a fan and lights in there that's exceeds the 3A by far the hobbywings delivers continuesly. Remember that a strong servo like the ACE already used 5A peek when working.

I will make some detailed shots soon and explain how I did it.

DJLeonardo

Here's a few shots next to it's brother te SC810e in it's "natural environnement"

DJLeonardo

And now some more under the hood shots




front body post:

It's a rear Slash body post with the mounts cut off. Attached is the upper part of the front post put together with screws. The front holes are further apart. This way at least the front holes of a stock Slash body fits. All my bodies pretty much fit al my (4) cars this way. The mount is attached with 2 screws. I used the holes for the damper positions.





rear body post:

I drilled 2 holes in the rear shock tower. easy.



rear body post with rear bumper

The rear bumper fits with some bending into holes already there. Just used longer bolts. Then the bumper is not in the right position yet. I heat up the plastic and bend it backwards to make more room for the hood and to get is a little higher.



front bumper mounted.

This one requires some work



I used an RPM SC10 front bumper 1 part mount with the front 2 screws for the buggy bumper. I improvised a bit to make it stronger



You need to cut the lower half of the SC10 bumper plate in 2. Keep just enough so it will fit in the space where you took out the small buggy front bumper. Dremel of the bulb in the red circle so it's not in the way with the other plate. Put them together and test fit.
The 2 screws go through both the plates. The bottom plate I reused the holes already in the plate. THe upper plate I drilled.

Here you can see what I did compared to an unused set of the same RPM bumper.


That's it really

BoneDoc

iTrader: (6)

Very nice!