Christophoclese

With the TLR bellcrank kit you also have a very snug fit using Savox servos. Make sure you have no servo shims installed, servo all the way back.

Try to see what's making contact. In my 22T I had a small issue with the right crank-arm colliding with the servo horn at certain angles. I shortened the steering link to get around this.

The Exotek servo mounts should also solve the issue since you can mount on the back of the posts.

E-Mann

iTrader: (41)

FYI for anyone wanting to add the 2.0 rear arms to a 1.0 chassis. The cutouts on the 2.0 chassis are different. Therefore you will need to run at least 2 degree of anti squat or dremel down some plastic on the arms to run the 2.0 kit set up of 1 degree. Also make sure you move the shim from the front of the hinge pin to the rear - and only use one 0.5. It is a good idea to download the 2.0 manual to see how the new parts work together.

Gravity Dodger

iTrader: (10)

I got a 22T set-up in mid-motor second hand and love it so far, are there any 2.0 mods that are a must have? My truck came with exotech bellcranks just curious if there is any other updates I should do.

Bserious

iTrader: (12)

So who's played with the 22B standard chassis on a T platform?

freezeframe007

Ok, so the Evotek steering bellcranks that I installed on the 22T (1.0) broke after only about 5 packs. Will bellcranks listed for the 22/T 2.0 work on the 22T 1.0?

donny939

Yea I just put them on

brew99

iTrader: (6)

Ya they work, but I suggest you also get the other front end parts as per the 2.0 manual, so that it all works together properly. I.e. new arms, spindles, hubs.

Dirtraycer

iTrader: (4)

I raced my truck for the first time and noticed it pushed from the middle of the turn out. would adding a 1mm shim under the front camber link or going to 2.0 deg anti squat in the rear help ?? I'm running the kit setup besides 27.5 oil in the rear and the brass weight in the rear.

Gravity Dodger

iTrader: (10)

My 22t does the same push on exit with the exotech, I also can't seam to get the turning radius smaller than 5 1/2 feet even with the servo travel set to 150%. I softened the rear and added more droop and that helped a little.

1badgoat

Try 2.5 degrees of rear toe in, or move the rear hub back 1 or 2 mm.

csmorris

Does the standard gear case accept either a ball or geared differential?

I currently have the stock gear drive, but I ordered an MIP Pucks Shiny system for mod racing so I can convert over to the ball diff.

Just want to make sure the current cases will accept the MIP setup.

Thanks

Christophoclese

It should fit no problem. All of the 22 transmissions are the same, with the exception of the new 3.0 (and it should fit there too, really).

You might end up needing the main gear for the ball diff (Diff Gear: 51T: 22 TLR2953), though. I don't think that comes with the MIP kit and I don't think the gear from the gear diff is compatible.

donny939

Yea you just need the diff gear and it will work. I got the pucks system to and the only thing it doesn't come with is the diff gear

donny939

I'm not sure if I should ask this here but I couldn't find an MIP thread. I have a 22t that I switched over to the Mip pucks system. I'm rebuilding the diff and I bought the Tlr232001 diff service kit. The Tlr diff rings are bigger than the Mip rings. So they won't fit on the outdrive. So I will just use the old rings I guess. My question is has anyone else used the Tlr diff build kit with the Mip shiney pucks system. I'm just wondering cause of the rings and also the screw is a tiny big bigger on the end where the hex goes in but I think it would work. I just wanna make sure it works incase I need to buy anything else, I gotta buy new bearings anyway so while I'm at the shop I could pick something else up

donny939

I forgot to say the washers for the screw that came with Tlr diff rebuild kit are different than the Mip pucks system ones, the Mip have one metal washer and one plastic, the Tlr are both metal