Toiffel

iTrader: (52)

I broke the steering rack first time out there, replaced it with the aluminum one !!!

Toiffel

iTrader: (52)

I'm running saddles with no problems, going to try stick see if I can notice any difference...

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

I got the front end done so far... Going together good for my first kit ever! It has taken me around 2hrs to do it though.. I was using the L wreches then I got inpateint and went and cult the L part and put it in my drill LOL... Should be way faster today; I can't wait to drive it

What motor should I run you guys think?

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

I've run mine for several race nights now, and I've run my 22 since about Thanksgiving of last year and both of them have less slop in them then my B4.1 and T4 had right out of the box. I haven't had a single issue with my 22, but I've pulled three ball studs out of my 22T and popped a few ball cups off. I think that the kit needs to include the longer ball studs because of the number of shims the kit set up requires under them. I switched to 8mm and 10mm ball studs and haven't had one pull out again.

limiteded1le

iTrader: (60)

Depends on the track and what classes you have to run in. 7.5-8.5 seems to be the ticket where I'm at. It's a small tight high-bite indoor clay track.

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

If this is his first kit, them I'm probably going to assume that he's fairly new to racing as most of us experienced racers build only kits and don't settle for RTR stuff. If that's the case, then I'm not so sure I'd recommend a mod motor, especially a 7.5 or 8.5 as those are pretty powerful motors.

IF you are fairly new to racing, DO NOT start out with a modified motor. If you do, plan on keeping lots of extra parts in your box because you will break all the time. I've been racing for several years and am still faster with a 17.5 then I am with an 8.5. Stick with stock until you learn throttle control and smoothness.

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

I broke two steering racks the first time out, but the third one is holding up ok.

silentassassin

do rpm ball cups fit on the 22 and 22t turnbuckles?

namewasdallas

When you say aluminum camber plates are you talking about aluminum adjustable hinge pin holders? Like on the Losi SCTE that have different plastic blocks to give different Anti Squat?>


Also Is the steering rack on this truck a Slider type or bell crank type setup'?
I remmber seeing a video about the slider but cant remmber if it was for the 22 or 22t.

Also Whats the cheapest place to order one of these ??? I know someone said Amain's price went down after pre-oder shipping.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

alum camber plates.

Front
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2059
Rear
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2060

22 and 22T use the same slider steering system.

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Casper beat me to it

chadmart

I highly recommend getting a good set of wrenches. I was using those "L" wrenches and first and they were chewing my hands up. I had MIP wrenches but they were all SAE, so I ended up getting the Losi set of metric wrenches and I've liked them so far. 4 wrenches for $50 isn't too bad, but you can get the MIP wrenches for $13 each I think. It's just very hard to take a drill out to the track, and sometime you don't want that kind of power to tighten down these screws.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

If you are new go with 17.5 and run in the stock class.

They make speed tips for using "drills". Make sure your drill has a good clutch so you don't strip out all your plastic parts!

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

Well I'm not really new but not no more I would say I'm more in the middle. I was thinking 13.5...

Also does it go like this:
Image is big sorry click the link below:
http://i.imgur.com/7aol4.jpg

Also I know it goes on the ball but I think you guys know what I mean..

kstoracing1

Buy once and an 8.5. Only get an 17.5 etc if there is already a extensive class for it. Turn down punch in your esc.

If you break learn from your errors and buy spare arms and tower. Shock shafts etc.