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Old 01-28-2012, 11:14 AM
  #1966  
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Originally Posted by jlandon
I put Ryan D's setup on the truck with the exception of the 0* caster. Can someone explain what changing to the 0* will change with performance vs the stock?
http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/caster.html
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:05 PM
  #1967  
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Does anyone know the part # for the orings from lowes for the shock caps
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by no1uno
Does anyone know the part # for the orings from lowes for the shock caps
Pretty sure they are Danco #41
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:06 PM
  #1969  
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Originally Posted by jlandon
I put Ryan D's setup on the truck with the exception of the 0* caster. Can someone explain what changing to the 0* will change with performance vs the stock?
i put the 0 degree caster blocks on....truck turns in a lot better and doesn't affect your exit i would highly recommend it..
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Old 01-28-2012, 03:33 PM
  #1970  
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i thought i see it posted on here be for but i can seam to find it.
but what is the advantage to run the buggy rear springs on the rear of the truck vs the truck rear springs?
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:32 PM
  #1971  
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Anyone selling there's yet? Let me know I would like to get one. Looks like an awesome truck!
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:28 PM
  #1972  
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Originally Posted by tedstryker
i put the 0 degree caster blocks on....truck turns in a lot better and doesn't affect your exit i would highly recommend it..
i agree tons o steering......
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:52 PM
  #1973  
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I'm going to be using a orion vds1007 servo what spacer should I be using?. I believe it's the same as in my 22 which is 0, I'm running a savox 1257 servo and using 0 spacer's in the 22.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:16 PM
  #1974  
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got a question... buddy brought the 22t to the track today, still here actually but the diff loosens up within a minute. flipped the bold and nut to the opposite side and it still loosened up. Any ideas why? it is build mid motor.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:18 PM
  #1975  
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Originally Posted by Ostach24
got a question... buddy brought the 22t to the track today, still here actually but the diff loosens up within a minute.
was the diff broken in properly? I know these diff's like to be run tight, make sure it's not loose
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:23 PM
  #1976  
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okay well we just found out he didnt put the spring in. Which side is the bolt supposed to go in slipper side or opposite side?
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:30 PM
  #1977  
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Originally Posted by Ostach24
okay well we just found out he didnt put the spring in. Which side is the bolt supposed to go in slipper side or opposite side?
you should have the hex head on the left side and the bolt on the slipper side, so in othe words when you go to adjust the diff it should be on the opposite side of the slipper
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:36 PM
  #1978  
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is it different for mid?

and you are saying nut on same side as slipper and long bold on the opposite side of the slipper?
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:38 PM
  #1979  
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Originally Posted by RB5SP
you should have the hex head on the left side and the bolt on the slipper side, so in othe words when you go to adjust the diff it should be on the opposite side of the slipper
Definitely correct. Especially if you want to make diff adjustments easy with the TLR tool. No removing ANYTHING to adjust the diff...very nice.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:39 PM
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just asking because my kyo is opposite of the ae and i thought this was like my kyo but wasnt sure.
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