Great success.
In this spreadsheet I've done,the suspension frequency in my 2wd buggy is 39.9 front and rear.Pretty good huh? Using this method and the spreadsheet to really know how good it is has been invaluable.
Please test and see if anything should be changed,the shock angle is in radians and you'll need to know corner weights and real spring rate(http://www.planetspring.com/pages/co...calculator.php).

Was the calculated balance through your spreadsheet verified by observing the front and rear of the car rising and falling at the same rate?

Yes it was,and there was a discrepancy with shock angles because it was "hand measured"(read eye-balled) and the rear is 39.4 so it confirms that the front rises first marginally. I couldn't do a slow motion video so I didn't know if it were my eyes playing tricks or I was really seeing the front rise a little faster.

very nice! To improve accuracy, should the weight of the wheels be included in the corner weights since they are the majority of the unsprung weight? Also does the the excel formula compensate for front kickup angle?

Wheels should be included for one reason,to standardize results for all who use the spreadsheet,so wheel rates can be compared. That's a good question on the kickup and anti-squat,while they don't change spring-to-arm angle they change arm-to-ground angle,so "I" think a ACF for kickup/squat on the final WR equation is adequate. Easy to do so it'll be on v.2. BTW,my screen is 20" and the whole spreadsheet fit but should I make it top-bottom for those still rocking 14" CRTs?

Glad the topic is back around to wheel rates. I've been balancing my springs on my cars for a while and it has been working great. I use my iphone and slow-mo playback to verify balance. It's worked great in the past and has yielded a car that was very balanced and easy to drive. This season with my buggy it hasn't been so great. I used the same techniques as I always do to get balance, but didn't end up with a neutral car. I figured it was the camber links and tried tweaking those and other adjustments (like castor, toe, etc). But no matter what, I always had an on-power push the would awkwardly shift to an off-power oversteer. In my head I had been thinking the rear was too soft, but I knew I had done my balancing correctly and it couldn't be that. In fact, I even had gone back to looking at balance and it was fine. Last night I finally tried a softer front and that really helped. The car had a much more neutral driving characteristic that I had experienced previously using the spring balance method and it still jumped just fine.

I'm perplexed. Watching the front and back rise at the same rate has never given me an issue before.

Did you switch back to MM4?

nope, still running mm3. think maybe it could be the 0* antisquat?

If you have enough forward traction when accelerating then you could certainly try changing that to see what happens. It might help.

Another idea, and this may sound weird, is to add some weight back up front. Rebalance the springs to compensate though. Try the anti squat first since that's quick and easy.

I'm going to check spring balance again with the new springs up front. If it looks the same on my phone as it did before, that will indicate to me I need a better measuring method.

V2 is available,now with kickup and squat compensation. Anti-squat 0-3 as negligible effect and front 20º kickup is a minor shock angle change as far as I see.

The front has a 25 degree kick.

Aren't the affects of rake and/or squat cancelled out in the calculation? The angle between the gravitational force on the sprung mass and the spring is the same as the angle between the angle between the upward force from the road surface to the wheel and the spring.

Nice work on the calculation, though. Once you have confidence in the calculation and your measurements of your suspension, you can make different adjustments to your car/truck and use the spreadsheet to check your balance without having to go through the oil-less drop test, too. That's what I've been doing with my SC10, and I'm going to try something similar for my gold pan.

The obvious next step is a damping spreadsheet, too. I've dabbled in that, as well. Pretty interesting how the piston speeds change with different configurations and how that affects how the shock works.

Fred or Marcus, I would really appreciate any advice either of you can give. I have a Losi 8ight E 3.0, I am running it on an indoor clay medium sized high bite track. most of the track is smooth, maybe shallow rippley bumps. One section of the track, the last half of the front straight is rough. I just noticed a couple issues my buggy was having afrer reviewing a video my 14yr old took. Can I PM either of you a link to the video, and possibly give me some advice? I feel my setup is close, maybe just needs some minor tweaks. Any help you can give would be much appreciated.

Ah, that doesn't really make sense, does it. You guys were right, and I think the rake does need to be considered. Smallish impact, but still. I did already have it in my spreadsheet, but started waffling on how accurate it was to include it earlier after reading the posts on here.